Uncle Ed

IIRC Subaru did away with the water control valve on 85+ cars, instead they use an air mix door to control the temp. The temp cable runs down from the dash to a cam by the gas peddle. If your car dosn't have AC then you could pop the tube off between the blower and the heater to check if the door is fully open. Also check that the passinger side vent is closed. This question has been asked before but for the life of me I can't find the posts right now, try searching for " no heat".

As long as the tranny oil is full you should be ok. My 86' likes to howl when the temps get down in the 20's until it gets warmed up, of corse I'm chattering too . Ed

Hey Speedy IIRC what you want are Nitril O-rings, It's the same stuff that they use in the brake rebuild kits. Ed

The bolts were used to fill the gap between the post and the nut. If they had had a metric tap they could have made a threaded tab that would have done the same thing. Its hard to tell what they may have had mounted, push bar, spare tire mount, etc. Ed

I did that to the wifes 87' wagon with the 3at. If you put a weber on the EA81 you won't notice the 11 horsepower difference. There are several people on here that have already done this conversion. Ed

I'd use the non-hardening form-a-gasket on the oil pan. Manual gauge in my 86' shows between 5-10psi when hot. I just figure the TOD is a timer, time to change the oil. Ed

Ok, Time for a quick tip. There are dyes that you can get at your auto parts stores (NAPA, O'Reilly's, etc..) that will show up under a black light, you know the green look to your antifreeze, well thats it. The coolant leaks will look almost yellow/green, and the dye for the oil, well those will be orange. Clean things up and pull the covers first, then have a party hunting leaks, and if you can park it in a dark place, or put a tarp over the hood it will make it even easer to spot them. IIRC the dyes cost $3-$4 each. The price for the black light bulbs varies, IIRC i paid $8 for mine. BTDT. Ed

Hey GD: Did you know that you can get the Butyl- rubber sealer in a caulking tube at the hardware and marine supply stores? At the hardware they call it gutter & flashing sealer. Its made by DAP Inc. And it available in black, white, or gray. 10.1oz tubes. It costs about $6 a tube. For some folks the hardware store maybe a little closer to home. Ed

Well, thats one good guess from Northwet. Another would be the steering rack mount rubber has slipped out and is letting the rack move up and down which changes the toe-in. Ed

Ok, I guess I'll jump back into this conversation again. I posted this same question before, however, this time I've got a bunch of links for you. So, put on you thinking caps and read through these. http://www.businessweek.com/print/lifestyle/content/may2009/bw20090514_058678.htm http://www.fuel-testers.com/fuel_additives_gas_treatments.html http://www.e85fuel.com/e85101/faqs/conversion.php http://www.pure-gas.org/index.jsp So far I tend to like the marine sta-ble. Thoughts? :-\ Ed

If you read GD's write up then you've seen the pictures of the wife's car. EA81 engine, stock carb and intake. Single groove pulley. The difference between using a single or a double groove pulley is how much you grind or file off of the spacer. I don't know about the clearance with the A/C compressor, but the engine in her car uses the stock mounting with the compressor removed. Ed

Best advice, clean, and clean. The threads in the block, the head bolts, and the gasket surfaces! Use Fel-Pro head gaskets installed dry. NO Sealer/RTV, ect.. And in case I've missed something there are a lot of other posts on the same subject, head gaskets, over heating, (search). Its also a good time to flush your heater core, and get that nasty little hose under the intake too. You'll need to go to the dealer to get the rubber coated copper O-rings for your cam towers. Ed BTDT, 86' EA82

Have you done a block test to see if its a seeping/leaking head gasket? Any gurgling noise from the heater when you rev the engine? It could also just be a bad thermo, ( seen them bad right out of the box!) Ed

Now that is a SWEEEET find, and d/r too! Count the number of turns lock to lock of the steering wheel, if its 4.8 then its got the variable rack. No need for power steering (got one in my 86'). Ed

Mike After you check the trans for cracks, check the vacuum control module. Its on the pass side of the trans. They are known to leak and give the same shifting problems that you've described. They are fairly cheep. Remember to use a new o-ring when you replace it! Ed

I need to figure out why she's making this strange growly/grindy noise from the engine. Back when she would idle, it all of a sudden would start making a noise like it was trying to grind up something through an auger. Kinda like the ice maker in your fridge when you are getting crushed ice out of the door. It only does is for like 30 to 40 seconds and then it stops. Doesn't do it all the time, it is a very random kind of thing. Very strange.. Bobby Use a 3' length of hose to hear where the sound is coming from, alt, water pump, power steering pump, starter. Sometimes it may not be real loud, but may still be grinding enough to hear it through the hose. Ed

Yacolt, WA. Yup, 2 1/2 miles east of no where! 86' EA82 DR wagon, 87' EA81 wagon.

Well, the 86' has been an on-going project since last may. Today it got a 4 wheel alignment, so now its handling so much nicer. As for mods, rear disc conversion, Gauges, Fog lights.

This is an old post that I found in another forum that I belong to, and I thought I'd share it. It applies to both the Historic and old generation subarus. Its about ethanol in the gas and what its doing to the older cars. I know in some countries, they run 100% ethanol and that there are conversions available for some vehicles. http://www.businessweek.com/print/lifestyle/content/may2009/bw20090514_058678.htm I've been using the Marine formula STA-BIL in my engines. http://www.goldeagle.com/brands/stabil/default.aspx Any thoughts? :-\ Is there something better to use? Ed

2 of the ground wires on the aftermarket radio will not be used? Miles I'm is the process of put a Kenwood deck in the wifes car, and according to the manual for it "The unit may be damaged or fail to work if you share the ( - ) wires or ground them to any metal part in the car." His best bet is the write up in the USRM. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=50840

The rubber coated copper one was a dealer ONLY item IIRC, but I can't find the part number. I've Been using the nitril o-rings from the farm supply(for some reason I keep thinking they were 1/8"). Ed

Sounds like your following a good route for your trouble shooting, at least to me. One of the tools I'd use is an old two wire light socket with connectors or alligatter clips on the ends, that way when you loose the light you know you found the right connection ( less up and down). Just put in place of the link. Do you have a repair manual ? Also what year and model is your Roo? Ed

This information was saved from the Prosubaru web site, and was saved in printed form. The site is no longer on the web! If this information isn't wanted or accurate then please delete. Ed Engine Swap Information Here is the largest collection of engine swap information available on the internet. Article came from countless hours in the scrap yard, measurements, attempts, and various internet sources. I hope you find something useful, there is a lot of information here!!! THE BASICS FOR ALL SUBARU TO SUBARU SWAPS: Get a complete engine pull and take pics of your car and the donor before starting. It is also a good idea to label all wiring and hoses on both engines. All subaru EA-Engines can replace each other with little or no modifications! Subaru EJ-Engines can replace most EA-Engines beginning in 1977! All Subaru EJ- engines can replace each other with electrical modifications! The EA71 will replace all EA61/EA63 engines with no mods. Heads will swap in pairs. The Ea71 Heads will directly replace the EA81. Even though the EA 71 block is 1” shorter the heads will swap in pairs and raise your compression ratio to 9:1, (higher with EA71 pistons). The EA81 will replace many EA-Engines, and is a direct replacement for 84- 87 EA71. Your MUST use the clutch disc and bearings that match your original transmission, along with the pressure plate and flywheel to match the repacement engine. Occasionally you will run into bellhousing and starter issues, this is because the Subaru used four different bellhousings and three different basic starters. Here is the breakdown simplified as much as possible: Narrow Housing ID: The early, or narrow housing is extremely narrow and has a 12 O'Clock top Mount starter. This housing will not fit any oter engines but fits all top starter ]transmissions. Use: EA52/61/62/63 Engines. Terminated in 1974. Wide Housing ID: The wide housing is identical to the early unit but is 2” wider, 12 O'clock top mount starter. This housing will fit all EA63 & 76-83 EA 71 engines and all top starter transmissions. Use: Used on late '74 and all '75 EA63 and most EA71 until terminated in 1984. EA Housing ID: This housing is identical to the wide housing but has a 10 o'clock side mount starters. This housing will only fit 84-87 EA71, all EA81/82, and all side start EA- transmissions. Use: Used on 84-87 EA71, all EA81, all EA82 and all ER27. Terminated in 1994. EJ Housing ID: This housing is similiar to the EA housing, but is 1/2” Deeper and two top studs are slightly off center from the EA Housing. Most Starters are still mounted at 10 o'clock, but some are in other places for space saving. These are still interchangeable with all current combinations. Use: Still in use today with all EJ engines , EG33, and EZ30/36. Starters All EA 52-62 use the same starter, not interchangeable with anything except narrow housing EA63. Wide housing EA63 thru EA82 use the same starter. The EA82T and ER 27 use the same starter, it is just higher powered and can be bolted-on with no problems. EJ/EG/EZ starters have a different drive end than the older units, but are all similar coming in different shapes & sizes to save space. Turbo starters are once again stronger and interchangeable. Some early FWD used the EA-drive end, making starter swap possible, even onto new engines simply by attaching the new drive end to an older starter... cool, isn't it? Now that you're up to speed on subaru swaps, you may proceed to the nitty-gritty swap information. Hopefully this will serve as a guideline to aid you in your swap decision and save you a few hours in doing it... Enjoy! Swapping an EA61 to an EA63: All EA61 and EA63 engines are 100% bolt-in swaps. In fact, they share most every part. Reuse your original intake, carburetor, and distributor. Some 74-75 EA63 used the wider EA71 bellhousing, so you might want to snag that starter too, just in case. Clutches and Pressure plates are identical. An evening job! EA62 Swaps: The EA62 found in the 1300G has rear exhaust ports (like a Type 1 VW). It can replace EA61/EA63 engines if you reuse the front exhaust and make other minor mods, but we recommend against it. There are a few similarities, but lots of differences. These engines are the toughest of the 70s, but are also the rarest and hardest to find parts for... even simple items won't interchange, so we recommend only swapping in an EA71. Swapping an EA61/63 to an EA71: You will need a complete EA71 to do the swap, but this is a bolt-in job. If you get a motor with electronic ignition, you will have to reuse your old distributor or get a spark box. You must use an EA71 pressure plate and flywheel with your old clutch disc. Late EA63 shared the wide EA71 bellhousing, if yours did not then you will have to also use the EA71 bellhousing and starter, but this is still an evening job! Swapping an EA61/EA63 to an EA81: To swap in an EA81, you will have to change your transmission and gear shifter. The EA81 will not bolt up to the older transmission, and the older bellhousing won't bolt to the EA81. The engine and transmission mounts are identical so its still a bolt-in job, just more expensive. Swapping anEA71 to an EA81 or vise-versa: Honestly replacing an EA71 with an EA81 is silly, the last 1 bbl EA71 and 2 bbl EA81 that rolled off the assembly lines only have a 4HP and 11/lbft difference. This is easly obtainable by the addition of the appropriate 2bbl and distributor on a stock 1.6 motor. If you still wish to pursue this, you only have to watch out for bellhousings. 84-87 EA71 and all EA81 are direct swaps, however 76-83 EA71 had a 1” narrower block, and the bellhousings are incompatible so you will also have to swap transmissions along with intake and exhaust manifolds. You can re-use your original distributor, (or the 83-87 2wd ND one). Heads will also swap in pairs. Heads are up to you, if you have them shaved and ported/polished one is no better than the other. The only exception would be that in late 83, EA81s started coming with hydraulic lifters instead of the solid ones used for many years. You would have to have complete matching heads, cam, lifters, and pushrods to swap over to hydraulic but its a bolt on feat, even for the EA71. The EA71 cam is rougher than the EA81 cam, but there is an after market unit available that dwarfs both. Also, 76-81 EA71 have thicker piston rings and higher compression than all other EA-Engines. Swapping in an EA82: The EA82 can replace most EA engines with some work. The EA82 will NOT fit into a 70-74 vehicle, and will barely squeeze into a 75-76 vehicle with mods to the frame rails. However, an EA82 will fit in all 1980-89 with bolt-in ease, if your EA82 is carbureted. If yours is FI, you will have to cut and splice wires, cables, hoses, and more. It will be a tight fit, so you must use an electric fan and ditch the EA82 one. Distributors won't swap, however to simplify the process and have a non-computerized unit you can use an 85-87 EA82 carbureted distributor because the two-wire hookup is the same as most EA71/81. Once again, lookout for bellhousings, remember the EA82 and EA81 are the same, meaning you can't replace a 76-83 EA71 without using an EA81 transmission. Also, watch out for minor EA82 differences: SPFI/Carb Heads are nearly identical and offer a 9:1/9.5:1 on a non-turbo block. MPFI/Turbo Heads are identical except for the extra oil and water ports on the turbo head. A non-turbo head can not be modified for OEM fittings, but the turbo head fittings can be blocked off for non-turbo usage. These offer an 8.7:1 compression on a non-turbo block or 7.7:1 on a turbo block, (difference is the pistons). All non-turbo camshafts are identical year to year, and have a larger lift and duration than turbo cams, good for a calculated 5-10hp on a stock turbo motor. Finally, use of non-turbo pistons in a turbo motor WILL work perfectly, and is how we rebuild ALL of ours. This will give 130hp instead of the meager 111hp, the only drawback is you must either retard the timing 2 degrees or use premium fuel (93). Add non-turbo cams to that and you have close to 137hp!!! Note: All information is from http://www.prosubaru.com. Their web site is no longer available! I stopped typing at this point do to the amount of information already available on EJ swaps on USMB. Ed

Miles warpage limit = 0.002 (0.05mm) Thats from both the Chiltons and Haynes manuals. Incorrect torque or torque sequence, failed to clean bolt holes with a tap and/or didn't lube the bolts before installing. I was taught 0.0015 but thats another story. Ed

My bet is that the two cables were used to transfer some of the weight to the hitch for tongue weight. If you remember the old u-haul clamp on tow bars. Not enough tongue weight and you could have a real wild ride! Don't know if that thought helps any. Ed