Steveman09

This gives me a much better idea now, if you could take some pics I would really apreciate it. Thanks for the help.

Ok here's the deal, I just got my GL-10 back up and running and when I pulled the motor out 6 months ago half the PCV Hard Pipes and hoses broke off in the process, I need someone with a EA82-T to take some engine bay pics for me of the PCV System Routing. I can't figure out how it was routed and I can't find any info.

Well its been a long weekend for me, I had to tear the motor back out of the GL on Saturday, I've been having intermentant lifter noise off and on for the past week or so and I finally got tired of it and decided to do somthing, I got a whole set of lifters from a co-worker that only had 500miles on them for FREE I then realized I made a mistake when assembling the CAM towers/covers onto the heads, after talking with a tech about my lifter problems he went off about a old story where he forgot to install 2 small o-rings into the CAM towers and when he siliconed the Towers to the heads some of the silicone got sucked into the lifter oil passages and made the lifters go crazy all because of these o-rings missing. I then realized I too had forgotton to install them into my CAM Covers!!!!! Now if anyone has ever attempted to change out lifters with the engine in the car they know how much of a PITA it can be since the CAM Followers fall out as soon as you take the CAM covers off, and since I had some small hard to reach spots where I had some coolant leaks (bad hoses) and I scored the set of lifters for FREE I decided to just pull the motor out since it is 10 times easier to work on it out of the car. I had the motor out in about 2 hours taking my time, I pulled it completly assembled, just removed bellhousing bolts/nuts, alternator, a/c, ps pump, wiring harness, radiator & fans, and turbo downpipe. Once I got it out of the car I went through and double checked everything on the motor, fixed the coolant leaks (replaced hoses). When I took the CAM covers off I immediatly noticed the missing O-rings! I shook my head and proceeded to remove all the lifters, then I noticed there was in fact silicone in the lifter passages! So I took my air attachment to my air compressor and blew all the passages to remove all the packed silicone, After all that I installed the new o-rings, re siliconed everything, assembled it all back together and had the engine back in the car and running by 8pm saturday night. I'm happy to report the engine is running near perfect now, I also adjusted the timing and installed the new TPS sensor, MAN WHAT A DIFFERENCE! This sucker pulls harder than my V6 Acura Legend 5-speed! I can't wait until I get some more miles on this motor so I can install the TD04 and Intercooler, it's going to be a beast. I wish I had my camera when I baked the tires when the turbo kicked in from a stoplight That same night I killed an Integra GSR w/Mods and the guy was completly at Dismae! At the next light he was like "What the hell is in that thing?!?!" I just said "1.8L Turbo" and took off I'll keep you all updated on the progress, next up is 2-row HD Radiator, Dual Electric Fan Conversion, TD04-13g Turbo, Top Mount Intercooler, and Custom 2.5" Exhaust.

There are 2 sets of connectors, the GREEN set and the BLACK set. Green = Test Connectors Black = Read Connectors When you connect the GREEN ones together this is for setting ignition timing. Connecting just the BLACK ones is how you read CODES at your ECM using the O2 Monitor LED. Connecting Both GREEN and BLACK connectors is how you reset your ECM stored CODES. You dont want to allways drive with the green ones connected as it will not allow the timing to funtion properly, and you will prolly not have much power. Also make sure all your INTAKE and Turbo Hoses are tight and have NO LEAKS, the noise your hearing could be a small boost leak, use some BRAKE Cleaner and spray it all around the Intake hoses and see if the idle changes, if it does then you found a leak.

Just to let everyone know this is VERY common on the older EA NON-Turbo Motor's and there is actually a fix out to deal with it. We have fixed about 10 at the dealer I work at. It's a fault in the PCV System Design.

You did make sure to adjust your timing with the green test connector connected right? You have to do this to get the correct initial ignition timing. BTW: I doubt its the knock sensor, I ran mine without one for a week without issue, just the light was on.

Yeah Subaru's stock grounding system is simply crap. I broke down and regrounded and added a bunch more engine grounds to my car since I was having a bunch of wierd problems. After looking at the design I was left laughing. I advise everyone to add more engine grounds to your subaru, it benifits allot of things in the car in more ways than 1. Glad I could help you with your problem.

Try cleaning all your common engine grounds.

I bet its the TPS/IDLE Control Unit. Older Subaru's are notorious for TPS/IDLE Unit problems.

This sounds like its the Mass Air Flow Meter/Sensor to me. Try unplugging it, then start it and see if it idles. I'm willing to bet this is your problem. When MAF's go haywire they cause the exact symptoms your having.

A NEW OEM Subaru Pump Revision B. Cost me only $130 at the dealer I work at. Go buy a OEM one, we see allot of issues with Aftermarket engine parts on subaru's at my work. It's not worth saving a few dollars, the problems overcome the savings.

Added more pics for you all, I'm updating my website with more info and pictures of the project. I'll let you guys know when its updated. Should be tonight somtime. The website is : http://subaru.purehardware.com

Ahh that makes sense, now I can see how its possible, where can I find pics of this install? I would really like to use the stock header pipe since its nice and heatshielded but I'm starting to lean towards a whole new custom pipe.

I beleave PAECO Industries makes some pistons for the EA82's if your looking to adjust compression and such.

The OEM pistons weren't cheap they ran me about $60/each dealer cost. I did not bore my motor out since it didn't need it, everything looked really good inside. I just honed the walls to put a pattern back into them for oiling and used STD size internals.

I still dont see how this will work, the stock header uppipe makes the TD04 sit too low and too far forward, the Outlet and Inlets are blocked by the Intake Manifold and the Transmission. There is no way to get any hoses in there with this issue. I would like to see PICS of a TD04 installed on a EA82-T car so I can see. I need a close up pic of the turbo and the piping.

Your hitting Fuel Cut due to Overboosting. The ECM is programmed to cut fuel over stock boost levels.

Your compression test indicates its time for a rebuild, you are expierening EXACTLY what happened to my EA82-T. One day I was out screwing around pushing it hard at 15psi, then my boost controller decided to go nuts and spike up above 20psi for a few seconds so I removed it and put it back to stock 7psi then later that day I stepped on it to pass a truck and all the sudden loss of power and tons of blue smoke! Just got worse and worse as the day went on. When I dropped the exhaust header pipe the Passenger Side Head Exhaust Port was dripping with oil! When I tore it down the ringland on one of my pistons was broken off and sitting in the oil pan! Good luck on the rebuild, just remember to have somone who KNOWS EA Series motors do the work for you. I rebult mine myself with the aid of a 20-year SOA Tech so I learned allot. It's now running great and back on the road Now I know why I did all the engine work, they are just fun cars to drive!

Posted some pics up for ya, I'll have a bunch more up tomarrow.

Well its been a long 6 months of saving up money and rebuilding the EA82-T in the GL-10 and I'm happy to finally have the engine in and runing! I have allot of knowlege on the EA82's now and if anyone has any questions regarding them I bet I can help you based on my expierences. The rebuild was long and special care was taken while I rebuilt it from the bottom up. Here's what I've done to the GL-10 : All New Tires and Alignment Exide Orbital Xtreme Deep Cycle Dry Cell Battery Pioneer AVH-P6600DVD DVD Player Headunit Pioneer 6 Disc CD Changer (2) Alpine TypeR 10-inch DVC Subwoofers in a Sealed Box JBL BP600.1 Amplifier Alumapro 15farad Power Cap with Custom Relay/Solenoid Autometer 2-gadge Piller Pod Autometer Boost/VAC and Oil Pressure Gadges (Mech.) Mcculloch 5300k HID Headlight Conversion with Custom Relay Harnesses 3AT 4WD Transmission PR Valve Shift Kit Rebuilt Entire Motor including: Honed Cylinders NEW OEM Pistons & Retainer Clips NEW OEM Piston Rings NEW OEM Main and Rod Bearings NEW OEM Wristpins and Rod Bushings NEW OEM Gaskets/Seals Custom Porting and Polishing on the Cylinder Heads and Pressure Checked@50psi Entire Rotating Assembly Balanced (Crank,Pistons,Pins,Rods,Crank Pulley, Flexplate) Complete 3-angle Valve Job on Valves and Seats Micropolished Crankshaft Journals NEW OEM Valve Locks NEW OEM Valve Seals NEW OEM Fuel Injector Seals NEW OEM Water Pump NEW OEM Oil Pump (Rev. NEW OEM Timing Belts, Tensioners/Springs, and Idler NEW NGK Spark Plugs, Wires, Cap, and Rotor NEW 180F Thermostat NEW OEM Fuel Filter Custom Painted Intake Manifold and Valve Covers Custom Painted Oil Pan NEW Knock Sensor ALL NEW Vacuum Hoses and Coolant Hoses PICTURES AT WEBSITE : http://subaru.purehardware.com As you can see I have done ALLOT of work to the beast to say the least, so far I have 220miles on the new motor and its running better and better everyday I drive it. I do however need a new TPS as mine is on the way out, but thats no big deal. I did have an issue with the TD04 and WRX Intercooler Conversion that made me hold off on the conversion until I get some more money/information. When trying to mount the TD04 Turbo to the stock Headerpipe with the bolt pattern modified to accept the TD04 Flange I ran into a clearance problem with the AIR Inlet and AIR Outlet of the TD04! The Inlet was right up against the Intake Manifold and the Outlet was blocked by the transmission. This made hose plumbing impossible, my question to all you TD04 EA82-T Guys out there is this, how did you overcome these clearance issues? Using the stock header pipe is not an option as the turbo needs to be about 3-4inches back towards the firewall and about 3-4inches up to take care of all the clearance issues. Then what about the Oil and Water lines? I figure these will no longer reach and need to be custom made? I really would like some detailed facts on this conversion from people who have done it. Well thats enough for now

I'm sorry to hear about your problems but as many know its not uncommon for subaru's to have HG issues, at work I see at least 2 a day, the EA series motor's are more rare tho compared to the EJ's thats for damn sure. Your milage is why this happened, I wouldn't be mad at all, I would be happy as hell if I had a 200,000mile turbo engine give up, think about it, 200k on a Non-Intercooled Turbo Motor is HUGE!

Man Calebz, you need to calm down, were all good people here who love suubies and fixing them up. I'm happy to see you also did the TD04 Forced EA82! I'm excited to fire mine up since I have ALLOT of TIME on it, the list is huge. I also had the whole thing balanced to help out on longevity. I also have done lots of other things to improve the EA82's restrictive Heads When its running I will post all the pics from the build as well as a video of the dyno runs when I get done with the break-in. I've rebuilt the entire motor from the ground up with OEM Subaru Internal Parts so it should hold together well.

I knew it wasnt real since I work at a Subaru Dealer and did some checking after reading the post. Good one tho

Mark my words, my subaru will be running here in the next 2 weeks and I'm going to take WJM's Head on. Soon as the motor is broken-in I will hit the dyno and get it on video.

The only Atom. Blowoff valve that doesnt affect drivability is the HKS SSQV which is what I purchased for my EA-82-T project thats allmost done I also have a WRX intercooler which will be its new home, mmm I cant wait to spool up the new TD04-13G