abog

Vagen, very nice. I like the wheel/tire combo. Nice stance also.

pics

Is it still looking for a neutral safety switch?

It is running again! will post pics:banana:

If you want to really make the car go well, convert it to a 5 speed......they fly!

I think that the main issue is either with the thickness of the hub , or the material composition that they are made from. It seems like they are very susceptible to temperature. Having the mating surfaces of the hub and the rotor clean of all contaminants is very important also. It has always seemed to me that the hubs are not properly designed to handle the heat that is generated by a little more aggressive driving style. We always found that the cars that had a pad life of 20 to 25 thousand miles had more pulsation occur quicker than the cars that would get 40 to 50 thousand on a set of pads. Which makes me think that the hubs are adequate for light to moderate driving styles and not for anything remotely spirited. Wheel bearings can be negatively affected by any type of harmonic vibration which is normally caused by an out of balance condition. In an imperfect world ( which we live in ) even wheel and tire combos that are balanced almost always will show some amount of runout. While balancing is designed to even this out you still have eneven rolling surfaces that change significantly with centrifical force and varying temperatures. Having had several experiences of working with the actual Japaneese engineers on other issues over the years, I had several occasions to ride with them during rode tests. It was interesting that the way that they drove was like the proverbial little old lady. Very cautious, very slow to roll up on stops . It scared the hell out of them to ride with myself or other guys in stop and go city traffic, or on open country roads. Although this was years ago, at that time they had a completely different idea of how the products that they designed are used in other markets outside of their own. The Rally car program of the early nineties seemed to bring changes to many parts of the cars in overall reliability. Subarus have historically had issues that are prevalent in a particular series of cars that exist without correction until the next series is introduced. Brakes and wheel bearing are a problem in the first generation Legacy's, that although not corrected are less prevelent in later cars. As I outlind in the previous post, the on car brake lathe did yeild the best results as far as reduced pulsation complaints from customers. Sadly I have never seen an ultimate solution for this problem with the available parts that we have. I am currently planning my next Autocross / rallycross / open track car, that will be a first generation Legacy. Brakes are one of the issues that will have to be addressed and I am looking into alternative components/ systems to use. It will be interesting to see what can be had and what the results will be.

Hey guys, as I remember the main difference in the rotors on EJ series cars and on EA cars are the way they are retained, with the EA cars the rotors are bolted in place to the hubs and do not rely on the wheel studs to locate them. The EJ series are dependent on the studs and nuts. You will find that a slight variation in wheel torque on an EJ car will usually show a large variation in assembly run out. At the dealership during the first couple of years of EJ cars we had a terrible problem with brake pulsation. After much experimenting and trial and error we settled on only using the factory recommended on the car brake lathe to turn any EJ rotors. This set up cut the rotor on the hub, with the wheel nuts torqued to spec. While not perfect this method significantly reduced the short term reoccurance of the pulsation. Basically what is happening is as the wheel is torqued the run out of the hub changes dramatically and will be very different than just the hub alone. I have found that alloy wheels change the run out more than the steel wheels. So by turning the rotors as they will run on the car they are less likely to pulse. The EA series didn't have as dramatic a change because they were attatched in such a way that they remained moreconsistant regardless of wheel torque.

Hey all, have been reading this thread and wanted to say that as a Subaru senior master tech and an ASE master, I am not a great promoter of miracle cures and quick fix products. But from my own experience, TransX is a very reliable product and has proven to me that it's benefits are not temporary and last a long time. All of your usual stop leaks contain a high amount of ether, which swells rubber and stops leaks. The problem with this is in most cases the initial swelling of the seals is short lived and when they begin to leak again it usually is worse. Whatever the formulation of TransX is, it doesn't have this reaction. It also has a blend of friction modifiers that improves shift characteristics and in general has proven to me to be of a benefit in many automatics from various manufacturers. As a side note. on an old trail rig back in the day, adding a small amount to an old leaky power steering system not only stopped the leaks, but also quieted down a growling pump.

Check for exhaust restrictions, a clogged or melted down converter will cause all of your symptoms.

Also, check and make sure that the secondaries are not hanging open. Have found linkages in the past that were sticking and not allowing the plate to close properly. Causing the idle circuit to malfunction.

You might have a problem with the oxygen sensor, sensor circuit or exhaust.

You should be able to find one at a subaru dealer, or used. easy to replace.

Just because rotors are new, doesn't mean they are ok. I have run across many new ones that were not straight. If you didn't have this problem before changing this rotor, doesn't it make sense that it has something to do with the work that was done? One thing that I have also seen a lot of is rotors that dont sit flat on the hub due to rust build up , even though they are tight they are not flat on the hub.

Be prepared to substantially beef up the floor area. The roof of the unibody is a major support. Removing it will really weaken the structure.

Good job....what did you do for an air filter? It is stuff like this that is keeping the hot rodder mentality alive. I love it.

Is the rotor you put on out of balance and causing a harmonic vibration? Is the rotor all the way on the hub? Not crooked because of rust etc. ?

I was wondering if you would snag that, I saw it on craigs list. Did you get a title? said there was a problem with that in the ad. Congrats

If your car has pin in axles, you may be able to remove the axle and drive the car a short distance and see if the noise is eliminated. The other thing to check is the strut mount on that side, if the rubber is bad it could be transmitting noise or vibration to the body. I have never heard a noise like you described from an axle, usually wheel bearing. The bearings in the axle joints are balls and usually will click when they get loose.

One of the best ways to check for rotational noise, is to lift the car up in the air, CAREFULLY run the car in gear and listen to the bearing housing, rear diff etc. Be VERY careful of rotating parts and hot exhaust. This is best done with a helper to run the car for you. You as a rule dont have to go that fast to hear any problems. Make sure the car is completely off the ground and is SAFELY supported.

Fuel injectors can cause this condition . There are two types of injector failure, one is that the electrical coil in the injector will go open and the injector goes dead. The second is when the injector, or the injector oring starts to leak fuel into the cylinder. You also have to verify that the injector is receiving power to function. You can hear an injector working when the car is running, if you listen with a screwdriver or stethoscope directly on the injector it will sound like a rapid clicking sound. If you cannot hear any sound it is dead, test the resistance of the injector and verify power and ground. If ok, pull the spark plug and read it's condition, if it is dark and wet that is an indication of excess fuel. The other thing, while you are there is do a compression test.

I dont know how abundant Subaru's for sale are in your area. My advise is avoid any car that has indications of a possible major repair. Even at a reduced price, this vehicle may be a headache and costly in the end. Pass on this one and keep looking.

+1 brake booster issue. With proper vacuum applied when holding the pedal and starting the engine, the pedal should fall more than an 1/8 of an inch. Verify that you have manifold vacuum at the booster. Check for any signs of leakage from the master cylinder. If all this is ok, you probably have an issue with the boosters vacuum diaphram.

Any of you guys have experience with the ebay gasket sets? I am pretty stuck on fel pro head gaskets, but what about the rest. These sets are significantly cheaper.

1995 was the first year of OBDII

One of the biggest mistakes people make when towing, is safety. Just because a vehicle has the ability to do something doesn't mean that it is safe to do. Overloading a vehicle is just asking for trouble. Please be safe, for yourself and the other people on the road with you.