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What is wrong with it? the only time I had problems with my car is when my car got flooded last year with a huge rain storm.. the ECU got flooded as well as the ABS unit. both spent 48 hours drying and I've never seen another problem.

no point of trying another connector since the wire is powered by the switch as I said to you before. besides the picture that shows the connectors that go to the fusebox is less then the amount plugged in. Should be no rain tomorrow so I will be checking for the break. funny thing is I checked the ohm of the wire (forgot to take the bulb out) and it appears to be getting the reading of the bulb in the socket. this is what the reading was

heh this guy swears I was not probing the F40 connector. he was going by this I think the FSM spans across a few models, no?

here is a video should clue you in. you will need to take out the passenger side vent and pull it out from under the dash part it's about knee level in the car when you sit.

Not much to it..

It's a little confusing to get to.. but I had to pop the clip off the dash part between the dash and the door it's a single screw and the rest should be easy the hardest part was getting the dash part to snap back in the bracket. Glad I took care of it and in the rain! Oh yeah be careful some of that metal that is from the steering bracket is a bit sharp had to shed a little blood today. I'm going to open up the old one.

My 95 L had a faulty relay (it's still in the car) it drained my battery dead and the giveaway was when I replaced the battery it started up again.. funny thing it has not gotten stuck again in a little over a year now (knock on wood) It's just something I haven't thought about getting done because it's been tame for now.. ABS saw a lot of action last winter.

just wanted to update this thread.. it was indeed my door lock timer causing my doors to try and keep locking on it's own or not responding to any position that the driver's side door lock was in. Everyone kept telling me to check the drivers door but I knew that was not the issue because it was centered around the glove box area.. and sure enough it did not take long to figure the problem out as soon as i touched the door lock timer case. Also that silver box is the cruse control unit I did not need it so I have an extra on hand.

Well got a break in the weather so i will check

haha it's pouring rain right now so just finishing up here with the door lock timer in the car if I get a break I will check. Is this like rare to happen?

the video was just me showing the meter and that with the switch off on pin 1 of F40 I would get 0 V and with it on I got 12 V. This person who last did the car did a hack job on a alarm system... i have since removed that but some of it still remains.. just hard to know what's factory and what's not..

the Left and right red wires from the parking lights meet up to run on a single wire right? That's not going to be any fun :-/ And just my luck it's raining now with a possible T-storm later... To keep me busy I'm swapping out the door lock timer. I had an issue with the doors unlocking on their own.. long story short as soon as I started moving the door lock timer around it would work but some relay inside sounded crazy. But that's for another tread.

friken got that door lock timer out.. everyone said to check the drivers side door and I said why? because everytime you slam the glove box close the doors will lock/unlock.. and sure enough as soon as I started tapping and moving the door lock timer the doors were trying to unlock and lock and it was clicking like crazy. it's a bit of a hassle to get to it however :-/ gotta watch out for crumbly foam.

I found it.. At the car now and i get 12 from the pin at the fuse panel.

same effect as the headlight switch only the rear tail lights come on

Ok I'm looking at the FSM still right now I don't see the power supply routing section however.

question about the fuse panel I think it's fuse number 5 but I think that fuse powers both the from and rear tail lights? I don't want to bypass so this is why I'm trying to do it the hard way. I wished the panel was labeled for the snap in connections one under the tail light relay must be it.

btw that F40 connection picture is that from the FSM? I can't seem to locate it.. I see it in the grounds wiring but not the schematic.

If I have to open it I will be putting in a front LSD.

I don't know I will check I'm sure it would be a pain to try and find the break in the wire? the car came from Brooklyn, NY so I don't know how many mice tried to eat what.

already been checked

I've been dealing with this for a year and I hope I can finally get to the bottom of this. I have no front parking lights regardless if the parking switch is turned on or the headlights are turned on.. Now before you go saying check the bulbs (both brand new) or the relay (works fine) I'm lost here.. the turn signals work fine.. and my parking lights in the rear work fine FYI. I tested the bulbs in the front with the meter and get 0v from it.. I'm having a little hard time tracing where the wire goes after it enters in the car but it seems to go to this snap in plug which does not seem like I got a picture of. GB-2 ground I do know that on the drivers side red and black is for the parking light where the green/white wire and black is for the turn signal. Passenger side is white/red for the turn signal with red and black for the parking light. The thing that sucks is for everyone else this has happened to it's the tail lights for them not the front. Any tips?

the idle pressure is in spec what is not is after turning off the car a injector may be causing fuel to enter in when the car is off. and I've seafoamed the car twice I can't expect motor mounts to last forever..

No takers?