Russ Hill

ROFL

WTF! I called the Vancouver U-Pullit checking on the price for a turnsignal switch and found out that they were no longer a u-pullit and had CRUSHED THEIR CARS after the first of the year! They had four turbo cars in there the last time I was in there (i.e. grabbing disc brake setups) and the crushed them :boohoo: Now what are we going to do? I really dislike F.A.P. :madder:

Yeah, what Tom said. The cool thing about the P/S racks is that, even with no pump they turn easier than the non-P/s cars. BTW, you could just take the belt off of the pump and run it that way.

I checked the archives on this, no joy..... I was throwing the finishing touches on the '86 Wagon when the turn signals got intermittant and then went out. I found the fuses for the hazard and turns blown. I replaced the fuses, signals worked ok for a few seconds then went out again. This time the fuses are ok Is there a flasher or is the flasher built onto the turn signal/hazard unit? The turn signal switch is making funny noises when I switch it back and forth, so I'm beginning to suspect the switch.

I've been through this many times.... The seller needs to get "certificate of lost title" Then you and the seller go to a Notary, show I.D., get it all signed off and notarized, Back to the D.O.L. and transfer it over!

Check the hose coming up from the passenger side valve cover. As for what to do about it....... You've got me, I've been fighting the same thing with my '83 hatch. I've been all over my PCV system to no avail. You can disconnect the hose from the air cleaner. it will make a mess in the engine compartment, but that beats a mess in the air cleaner (which is running out onto the front of the motor.) I figure my rings are just getting tired, I'll live with it til' it blows......

I'm pretty sure that Fred Flintstone was a Subaru man, but I don't remember any hubcaps on his car..... That's a pretty ornate hubcap though, must have been at least a GL model.

So I open this months National Geographic and find an article on a mysterious disc found in Europe. Turns one of the only easily identfiable marks is the constellation Pleiades. Is it a 3,600 year old Subaru hubcap???!!! Ask Moosens Suby Hubcap?

** oops had to fix the link** Try these guys, They sell the parts for VW to Subaru conversion. Kennedy Engineering

Man........ I want a ROO BAR so bad. Can't PK get us those things! I don't want to have to break down and build my own!

I'd just buy the whole head set. It'll have all kinds of stuff including the valve seals. Check eBay, that where I've found them the cheapest.

Could be fuel filter. It could also be the exhaust, If it's getting restricted it will rob power.

Well, I took your good advice. I let it idle on the choke for a scarey amount of time... and it slowly got quieter. All but one stuborn lifter, so climbed in and wound it up for a good spell and....... Sounds like a good motor! Thanks guys....

My money is on one of the small diameter water hoses. Probably the one from the T-stat housing to the top of the block. You may not even see the leak at idle, try reving the motor while looking for the source.

I guess the cam case goop is possible, but it started immediately at startup.

Here's the deal. I pulled the top end off of the motor Among other things I pulled the heads and... Head gaskets, Valve seals, Lapped the valves, Replaced the check valve spring, Replaced the cam galley o-ring, Oil pump and seal. The gauge is showing good oil pressure but man.... It's got lifter noise from HELL I don't know the history of the motor, so I can't say if it had problems before. I cleaned the outside of the lifters while it was apart and I left them sitting in oil until assembly. Man..... I have an embarassing amount of money into this car........ I donot want to do this again :madder: It's a good thing I waited a couple of days to post...........

I've never seen a gen1 or 2 EA81 head that wasn't cracked. They will work fine as long as you don't massively over heat them. I have a motor here that the valve seats fell out of. But the car had been stuck in the mud (up to the grill!) while wheeling and I figure they thrashed it trying to get unstuck and over heated it. The great thing is if you go to a upullit you can get heads already pulled because people pull them, find a crack and toss them back!

You could do it yourself for around $300.00. That would include the head set, front and rear main seals, timing belts, misc. gaskets, fluids, unexpected strangoddities and trips to Taco Bell. A little more to do the clutch.

That manifold doesn't look superior to a stock intake. It's just pipe and a flange for the carb. It may not work better for a street car. Remember, an airplane runs wide open. I also don't see any cooling or vacuum ports.

I saw a 4spd wagon awhile back that was doing the same thing. It turned out that the tranny was dry (no oil). The guy filled it up and it worked fine. It was still working fine 6mos. later.

:lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

I bet $150.00 is for one head. Or you could just do the heads yourself for about $30.00....... It's not that tuff, 1. Go to harbor freight (or equivilent) and buy a valve spring compressor ($27.00), a tube of lapping compound ($2.00). You should already have a head kit anyway and it will include the valve seals. 2. Pull and clean the valves. 3. Lap the valves into the seats (I use a power drill). 4. Clean everything really well. 5. Pull the old valve seals off and slip the new valve seals on. 6. Re-assemble the heads. 7. Install. A "Chittlin's" manual will give you enough info on the procedure to do it right. It really is pretty easy, At worst, you'll learn something.

I'm in the process of doing this to my '83. Just take the whole crossmember and rack with the pump in one peice and bolt it up. Straight bolt on.

Russ's $.02...... Open Axle VS. LSD VS. Welded Diff..... Open axle = Good on the street, good enough in the snow to get you around, no fun for serious off road muddin' LSD = Good on the street, better in the snow, better in the mud. But.. A worn out LSD is no better than an open axle and you never know what you'll find in a wrecking yard. Welded Diff = Not much fun on the street, Scarey as hell in the snow and ice, but Awesome in the mud. If I was going to build a rig for primarily off road use I'd definately weld the diff. For a real world driver, I wouldn't mess with it. I've driven stock subies for 20 years and (as long as I was on a road) they've never let me down. Snow, Ice, Mud, Sand, whatever. It all depends on what you plan to do.......

Yup, Time for a new Alternator