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Vanislru

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Everything posted by Vanislru

  1. Is a three door turbo coupe likely to be an RX? I just talked to the wreckers in the south end of the island and they have what they're calling a turbo 3 door coupe, any chance this is an RX. I'm on the hunt for an lsd too.
  2. Good to here, what kind of scoop are you thinking of? I couldn't view your last pic, but the computer is haywire right now i'll try later. ATB OK... nice pik! I'l bet that reduced spool time, nice size IC with minimal plumbing , that cars going to scream when you turn up the boost.
  3. It must be catching on something, I haven't had any probs, is your jacking point to far back? Try jacking on the oilpan[gently with wood underneath] shouldn't take much lifting force. Are you going to run the ghetto 2" DP too?
  4. Yep any of those spots will do, those lights look good.
  5. Looks good, nice and straight too. Just a thought, What if you chopped the takeoff on the right, clocked it towards the turbo and routed the hose under the one going to the TB, it'd be really direct. I did away with welding, i own one and can do air tight welds, but compared to a bit of sanding and JB weld I chose the JB. If you do the inside and out with a bit of prep it'll never pose any probs. On my TMIC the joints have held up over many rough 4x4 trips where the motor/trannie flex has put serious strains on the pipe and cooler which is connected to the body/frame. I run high boost and flog my car like it's stolen. The more direct you go the faster the turbo response and the less work your BOV or recirc has to do, and you will notice 1 foot of hose being dropped.
  6. I personally prefer the A pillar gauge mount, although I think the defrost area mount is good too. I just can't be bothered to take the time to hash it in. If you need to remove the A pillar stuff to another car it's easy, and it's clean. Nice clean looking install.
  7. Maybe, maybe not, can the caravan offroad, lay down some rubber? Maybe we could detour out to sooke, 4x4 around your back 40 and then head up the highway alittle further and go for a surf too.
  8. Any thoughts about chopping off the piping coming out of the IC and forming your own. The thing I found with excess hose is that it stretches under boost and heat so you don't get full boost potential. Nice size IC, those takeoffs cut short would leave you with a lot more mounting options, you didn't throw away the modded intake piece did you?
  9. Silicone is best, but any reinforced rubber hose will do. I even ran a piece of rad hose for a while, any tubing will do after the charge cooler cause it won't be all that hot, into the cooler you're kind of limited to pricier stuff. I usually order my stuff through a heavy duty mech supplier they usually have the best prices and selections for sizes 1.5" ID and up.
  10. Your car looks great, very straight, and clean. Nice ride, Mad tite.
  11. 1st, for the airbox, remove the 3 bolts that hold the thing in take a sawzsll and remove the whole bottom leaving behind the lip that the filter rests on. This one works very well but if you're doin the drive up the Coq. or similar long slushy dirty passes you will want to clean your filter more often. I uses this on my wagon with the TMIC. 2nd, The better of the two, if you look at the bottom of your airbox there is a plastic piece that goes through the side of your engine bay and ito the pass, fender. In there is a long bit of plastic piping that muffles the turbo noise. Take the plastic out and scrib the 4" Pvc elbow into the bottom of the air box and then scribe a mark on the engine bay wall were the plastic was. Bam cold air intake with no cleaning issues. Best if you'r not planning on an IC. As for boost controllers, if you finmd one for cheap great, but there are other ways that are reliable, I use a spring on my wastegate arm on my other Twagon, not the one in my sig, and it boosts 14 psi with no spikes, ever. I think the plan is a meet in the new year possibly a run up to Mt. Cain with a few detours, I have access to cheap Hostel accomidations for everybody, $15 bucks a night in town here and up the mountain too. Lmk when you're on the island and I'll come by with thesuperwagon, I'm just waiting for the lift kit and then it's good to go, I could bring another modded twagon too so you can see some of the go fast bits too.
  12. If you are lookling for more air flow cut out the bottom of the air box that your air filter sits in, or go 1 better and remove the air intake silencer that is the plastic assembly coming out of the bottom of your air box going into the passenger inner fender and run a 4" 90 pvc elbow into the fender instead. The first mod is good for better throttle performance especially with a K&N filter, the second helps deep your intake temps cooler, which is important if you don't have an intercooler. There are a few other things that will dramatically increase throttle response you can do but what your mech said I've never heard of in my years lurking on the board. I used to be on here under a different name but after a couple of years away from the board i'm back under a differnet name. It's cool to see how people respond to posts when your "new" with not much of a post count. If you searc out performance mods you'll find tons, What have you done so far? what level of performance are you looking t have?
  13. Keep everything seperate, well marked, and take photos as you go. If you can, do it all in one day preferably starting out early on. I will be doing this swap too, but I have experience from other diff's/trannies, organization and physical comparisons [photo's] are key. you probly already know all of this anyways.
  14. Not really, they rarely work and the potential for clogging up a smaller coolant passage makes them nore trouble than they're worth.
  15. Some day I will be in victoria and we'll get the ru's out! I was just looking at Phishy75's thread on coolant loss and there's 4 other bc guys there and 3 of them are from the Island. I road trip up to Mt Cain with 4 other subaru's too but only one of them is on the board, [he's mostly a lurker not to interested in posting]. I think a meet is in order, maybe in the new year we can all plan one out?
  16. Try some methal hydrate or similar water remover for your fuel system, and maybe a shot of low visc. oil too.
  17. No trouble with the lines, you will likely want a longer oil return line, the rest you don't have to mess with at all. It's really not all that bad, it's just a bit of messin ps line wise, they;re easy to dent, mash, or kink. If you are strong and think it out they can be bent to the right shape by hand in place. Don't be afraid to get a bit rough just don't clamp down on them with pliers and wrenches, I pulled a little extra slack from the other side to 'i think. Check your flange on the up and dp for square, gaskets can't do much for removing gaps.
  18. No luck with the calipers yet but I decided to keep the wagon off the road until the lift is in so I'm not in as much of a hurry to find them n ow, whick is kinda nice, might fix some othe minor nagging issues. The DP is 2" and from EMT elect. pipe. Angles are nice welds don't leak but aren't as pretty as they could be, i was just learning at the time. it should only cost $200 bucks for a 2" pipe and hotdog muffler too the back. That's what i paid anyways. Enjoy lmk if you use it.
  19. If there is coolant in there it's from the problem, those pipe are not the problem, see. They are part of the pcv system. It removes stinky nasty oil and gas fumes/blow-by from the crankcase and draws them into the intake to be burned in the engine. There'll be one on each head.
  20. Jazzician I don't think you are being unreasonable to want your shortblock back, the prices don't sound too bad, what else has this mechanic said? Phishy hows your N/A coming, any luck with the leak, I'm with Shawn I think it's your intake gasket I have had prob.s with this one. Usually happens after a head hasket job and a few too many bevies next thing I know the motors gotta come back out. Your UP and DP are on their way shipped them on the bus today, might be the next day as things are crazy busy frieght wise. Maybe Bushbasher can post too, it'd be like the longest string of BC posters evaar. I'm so totally stoked. Maybe we could plan a meet someday?
  21. I was told my pipes were shipping 2 fri's ago and I've had them for a week or so, I'm sorry to here about the whole check issue. Install was a bit trying, ps lines are still in the way and were not a lot of fun to move. The dp flange was way out of square so I had to grind that down. DP bracket to trannie lines up but was 1/2" spaced out so I shimmed that. The motor had to be raised up a ways no big deal really and I thind it's worth doing yourself, just use nitirle or latex gloves cause those ps lines are usually really nasty. Pics and vid for sound are coming the battery is toast atm. Low rpm's are about the same mid is noticeably faster and at high rpm's I never felt like the car couldn't move air, I redlined many, many times.
  22. My pipes are on, I will have some digi footage in an hour or so, no mid or rear pipe right now cause I want to wait till the lift is done. Really really loud:brow:.
  23. I'll try lordco and crappy tire, do you think they'll have a bleeder valve there too? There were three turbo ru's at the wreckers 2 weeks ago and now there is none, they are crushing older cars alot quicker now maybe cause of China and high steel prices.
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