Vanislru

I too am going to be doing the ej22t swap into a loyale, as far as the d/r issue's . I think that having a spare d/r is a must BUT I've abused my d/r alot. 4wd 4000rpm launches on pavement, relentless shocks from 4wd rock wheeling and driving it like I have something to prove the rest of the time. 2 years plus now all on 29's. CV's first then stubs, maybe the trannie will die if it's got poor fluids in it but I doubt it. There's too many weak links to go first.Good luck with the swap. This is the free legacy sedan posted in marketplace that's the donor eh? Nice Score!

I've seen the oil pressure drop when doing extended donuts but never below 10 psi. There are some baffles in the oil pan tho not many. Good luck.

I had an extra connector put together under the dash and it ran like yours come to think of it. I'll PM Island Roo cause he's the one who found it when I sold him the car.

1st guess is that the fuel return and supply lines are mixed. Then maybe the fuel pressure relays lines could have lost the vac hose that it uses for reference? But it did run fine for a while so I don't know. Do you have a vac. reading that it'd be the ticket should be around 18-22hg's i think.

Check the injectors resistance against what the other three are. 2. something ohms I think. That'll rule out the injector staying open. 50 psi would have me thinking about an HG too.

It's from a ford auto trannie cooler I think, with one of those screw on adapters and a remote filter mount. I try to post some pics of it tomorrow. I bought it off WJM about a year ago.

I had the timing at 20ish for the first few pulls and then down a bit further now has barely any pinging with really questionable "91 octane" gas in it. I can't wait to get some good stuff in it. If it did blow up you'd still have all the turbo goodies tho, blocks are cheap around here so I keep several motors around cause rebuilding and swapping's a PITA. My parts car has an H16 lol. I'm going to do a second electric rad fan soon and reinstall the oil cooler, try to keep it cool. About to install the td04 with a wrx chiller too. The Audi one I have now is good the wrx chiller will plumb in easier with the td04 tho. And then...try to make his 4.44 d/r box a reality. And then no more projects or Rianna will kill me!

and damn is it nice having that extra bit of torque. Made for some easier starts on the inclines with these big tires. Less clutch work is a good thing. Lots of power too I can break loose these 29x10.5's with soft rubber in 2nd on stock boost which is about 5 psi less than I ran before but I will crank it after a slight break in period.

Yeah, I'm pretty confident some major reworking will have to be done too. As long as I don't screw the R+P's trying to do it then I'll only have messed a d/r trannie, that's really cheap. Now that the Christmas shipping gong show is over I hope to see those R+P's soon. I want to make it happen. If it takes alot of time so be it. $$$ too well... I just hope It's not too bad and it becomes something that others can do too.

Lots of info can be found about replacing the turbo. Basically 3 bolts on the header 4 on the DP, 2 coolant lines I/O, 2 oil lines I/O, and 2 gaskets. Can be done pretty quick and people are practically giving these turbo's away. Good luck with it.

No prob's Corey. Are you still at the same # that I've called before?

Probly one of the most rust free gl-10 wagons I've seen too. Dibs on buying it back if you ever sell it Mark.

Living in the PNW like you do I think siping is the way to go. In rain and wet snow the only thing better is studding tires. As for chunks being torn off, that probly won't be an issue cause most hard rock 4x4ing subes do is with light wieght vehichles and gentle throttle. Anything more and you end up spending your evenings replacing axles. I bought the Trxus tires because of all the crazy siping and snow/ice performance which is exactly what the mountain crummy needs. I'd have gone skinnier but that wasn't an option with the sizes offered at the time. Doing shuttles up the ski hill is cool tho, flotation isn't so bad. I kind of like the tundra buggie look :/

I got $ and would love a reflash option, in fact I have 3 spare ecu's that I could donate. D-cal if you do want to do something like this then you can count on me for at leaast beer and pizza lol. Peeps have alot about the no money ea82 prob's but I for one have no issue's about dropping $$$$ here and there if I think it's worth it. Hell my 4.44 gears alone were almost $780usd. Hows Edmonton? I used to work for Shell at their Scottsford refinery can't really say I miss that place tho.

Looks great! Those are some big meats on there. I have to do some research tho cause I don't know the difference gen 1-2-... Just don't see those up here all that often.

Chux I haven't messed with one of our struts dampning cartridges I was speaking from my experiances with mountain bike shocks, some of which cost well over a thou bucks, thank god for pro deals. I do think that a thicker oil would be better for sure. The time consuming part is finding which oil wieght that's best. My springs (preload) are pretty good but I have really bad strut unloading, and torque steer too, when I get on the gas hard in FWD so increasing the dampning is something I've been interested in.

I've messed with different oil wieghts in my MTB front shock which had 7" of travel and completely adjustable preload, rebound, etc. It's really surprising how a subtle change in viscosity can make the dampning perform so differently. Some techs (MTB) are very private about their "blends" and most don't use any direct wieghts. Might be less trial and error type work to go with profressively thicker oil instead. Sounds cool can't wait to here what they ride like.

ea82 d/r trannie, 700 usd is the price for both r+p front and rear.

I usually unbolt the downpipe from the turbo and the trans. and then take the motor out with everything still on it, intake turbo etc.. In the last 2 days I removed 3 turbo motors and installed 1(Helping out a friend and clearing out parts cars my hands are sore!). It's really clean no oil to slosh around and then you can do any work as it sits in a bucket or on the bench. I have a spfi block with turbo goodies ready to go in soon, low end torque will be sweet.

Yes you have to change both, but you keep the gears from the trannie it's only the ring and pinion that have to to be swapped. A fair bit of aluminum removal too with the trannie and the rear diff. All I know about it so far is from reading up on few different forums and rally sites, it'll be I while before I can post pics and have any sort of write up.

How close to stock is the angle of your shafts? If it's close or bang on, lots. I've been really abusive with oversize tires (not the 29's) and lots of power. I think you're only going to have about 50 lb/ft of torque more than a stock spfi motor of idle up to about 2500rpm.

I've had a smile on my face all day after reading this lol. I might be interested.

Scrap it. I've replaced lots of cancer and worn out lines and such. NOT worth the effort. I've even made money reselling these cars but it's still not worth it. The seat belt bolts in the rear go early, very unsafe, and the the bit between the rear wheel wells in the center where it forms a 90 or so. There's not alot to these cars and i have seen them split in half here on the island before. TOO MUCH WORK!!

My legacy has a pretty low 1st as is (92 turbo 3.90 final) are you doing autocross or something?

I hope it all works, if it doesn't then I'll piece the d/r back together and hawk the gears on e-bay or something. After the cost of shipping and reselling I might lose a couple hun. but I've DREAMED about better gears for too long. As far as I understand these are from Japan. Several models of JDM(and a few US cars too) Subaru's use them. Mark(Island Roo) I probly won't get started until mid Jan or later shipping from Japan to US then to Canada at this time of year can't be all that fast, they did figure on 1 month or less tho, but I'd appreciate any help I can get.