Vanislru

Anybody? bump

OK I'm about to order the R+P 4.44 for the trannie but I don't know which rear 4.44 diff R+P to order. Which one will be easiest to find a clutch pack lsd for. Can I swap my 3.9 lsd to a R 160 rear diff.

Good advice there. The other benefit to SS lines in the front is that if you then have/put discs on the front/rear bias will change slightly and involve the rear brakes a bit more. Used to really annoy me having the fronts lock up waaay ahead of the rears when wheeling.

Wicked! You were very kind, not a bad looking truck either. All this snow has got me excited. Our mtns. here have some snow in the passes but I haven't managed to get of this rock to enjoy it yet. This weekend looks promising. We're bringing the "rock" boards up to the work party on the cabin this weekend maybe get some turns in. That imp got a tall stance and looks beefy too. Probly not too hard on the guy cause your car is obviously not stock:brow: .

what are all these guys running in the sport compact mags that have the air filter right in front of the turbo?? No maf sensor that I can see.

That's a clean looking old gen wagon in those pics! Nice pics.

Yeah trackwidth, 3.5-4 should be ok as long as your tires aren't wider than 9". I had alot of rubbin in the front on the footwelll are but I bashed the snot out of those and cut alot of the fender out and in the back I chopped alot of metal out. The only time I rub now is when I jump the car and that's not very often.

6 lugs rule, mine have 3" of backspacing so the whellbase is fairly large. 4" of lift with all the engine and trannie weight down low makes for a really stable ride. These cars will take more sidehill inclination than your tires have grip for. I drive my car like it's stolen. Drifts, burnouts, hill jumping, logging road rallies, 4x4ing. Older toy land cruisers and trucks, chevy's are your best bet. A custom subie rim for offroading should have at least 2" less backspacing than stock IMO

Got Mondays off now so if I can borrow your cherry picker that'd be great, I think the Hiab will be going over to Cortes tomorrow so I'd have to work around that.

It's been looked at a number of different ways but by far the easiest way to go about it IMO is the RRFPR and/or another injector with a pressure switch. So if it's not raining do you want to chop what you need from my 91 after I yank the motor? I'm just going to do it outside I can't be botherd to stab axles into the front just to wheel it into the shop.

Do it! The way to deal with the Differences with the pcv system can be found by searching a bit. An oil catchcan will help. It'll also cost you some new gaskets and minor screwin' around but the low end tq gains will be worth it. Something to consider is fueling, the higher comp will make it alot more prone to detonation but that can be delt with by either a secondary injector coming on at around 5 psi of boost or a RRFPR [rising rate fuel pressure relay] set at slightly higher than stock. And good flowing clean injectors. I'm yanking the SPFI block out of the 91 tomorrow and tearing the intake of for someone so I'll be doing this Soon. Just gotta find a RRFP and see about cleaning some injectors and testing there spray patterns.

I'm hoping that a couple of very close fluid changes with some sort of high pressure trannie fluid additive will deal with the meshing issues. If all goes well then I'll be ordering the 4.44's next week.

They tranny case doesn't have clearnce fdr them but I'm going to try and find away around that. I'm not sure it will work but it does look promising, at the worst I've torn apart a perfectly good d/r trannie and lose about $500 reselling the gears.Almost stock gearing with 29's would rule! Most 4.44 users are installing them in wrx's for tighter shifts AFAIK

I was going to say you can have mine for the cost of a case of beer [CDN beer not Budwieser or other barley water] but then I realized you are overseas. I'm taking the spfi stuff off of a block to turbo it so I don't have a use for it anymore. You will need the intake, computer, and sensors/harness.

Hey Numbchux I know you've posted it eslewhere but what's your tire size on those pics. I looked at other posts but couldn't find it.27's?

My 4" Ozzified kit was very well done, no issues what so ever. The directions were a little short but adequate. Drop subframe insert blocks bolt up, done. Some people just aren't all that good at/willing to figure things out. Island Roo I'll "loan" you my spare lift kit if I can get one ordered from PK for January Those AA kits seem to have good support but I can't stop looking at the rear tire clearance to close to the wheel well for me. I would wait a year or so till they get past the R+D stage.

That's why they don't rub, maybe consider less backspacing on the next run of rims. Skinny tires are great for cutting through mud and snow. That's it.

That price is for front and rear, not inc. shipping. I'm going to order these by the end of Oct. I'll make them fit.

29xWHAT? 9.5's

I'm about to order 4.44 r+p's from rallitek $1200 cdn not including shipping. Ouch.

Try to find some old landcruiser rims or 80's toy truck rims. I had the same probs with mine when I installed the 29x10.5's. I traded the wreckers for some toy rims with 3.5" backspacing and I now have huge amounts of clearance.

Awesome. Can't beat the turbo's exhaust header clearance offroading.

I'm in for the next trip!

With the car running does the motor sound different when you pull a plug wire? Try all cylinders just to be sure. From what you've described it sounds like an injector. Take an ohmmeter to the 2 injectors on the passenger side they should be around 2.4 ohms if my memroy is correct. In any event they should both be within a few tenths of an ohm of each other if ones lower replace it. Very easy to do, remove the 2 bolts on the fuel rail that'l free up the one side, then remove the hose clamp on the injector and the 2 bolts that hold it down. easy as 123...