Vanislru

Pyro, do you start fires? I smell smoke. They're stickers and don't mean that anyone hates or whatever. Inappropriate? Probly. Joke? yes.

Nice!!! 2 black rx's, a good story with a happy ending...

Looks good, any chance of wheels with more offset being thrown on there? I personally would go with the "I kill hipppies" sticker, also to be considered are "Hippies Suck" and "Nuke the gay whales for Jesus". What size lift/tires are on that thing?

Hey guy I'll probly have a couple of sets of heads around after I swap motors and scrap one of these gl-10 sedans so let me know if you need one. I've got a N/A set and turbo set [you need N/A right?]... pay for the trip on the bus and they're yours.

I think you're onto something there. Extra stress as a result of the heat? I just had #3 injector stop functioning when HG 1-3 blew. I think the injector was on it's way out for a while causing that cylinder to run leaner it was most likely the first to ping and suffer from any hard driving. It'd be interesting to see what others have found as far as flow rates go 2-4 compared to 1-3 maybe this is the source of 1-3, 3 the worst, running hot eating ring landings/pistons and HG's.

yep. Cars running well I just got back from Tofino[small'ish waves, got some tho] ran stock boost and slightly less timing 20' . Tomorrow I pick up the 86 gl-10 turbo 4 dr sedan 2wd that I scored for $250, it's got new lifters and a recent reseal with a fresh turbo too. not bad body but some rust. BUT i just also found a 4dr gl-10 turbo 4wd sedan with a fried motor or $200 so it's swappin time. I should come out of this with a tonne of parts too. Hmmm gl-10 goodies.

If you remove the egr's exhaust that is introduced into the intake then you should increase the amount of fuel that is metered too. Otherwise fuel is meterd for x amount of air + exhaust which doesn't burn if you remove that exhaust then you will run leaner. On my 2 t-wagons i have removed the egr line to the sol. disabling the egr valve, I then increased the srping tension on the flapper maf's so the computer thinks more air is being supplied to the intake so it adds more fuel than it would normally. This gives you a bit more power/torque down low, and helps avoid running hot/lean. I don't know what you can do if you have a hotwire maf.

Well after adjusting the cam's again, right side off[retarded] by a tooth, the car still ran like crap. So I rechecked the timing, TPS, and then the timing again. Nothing, no power and a horrible idle. Pulled the plugs and they all fired but #3 was kinda cleaner than the rest [i put new plugs in when the hg's were done] so I ohmed out #3 injector and got nothing, injector's toast. Installed a new one and she's running perfectly which makes me wonder if #3 injector was on it's way out and not spraying enough fuel shortly before that sides HG went. Coincidence?

1-3 twice

After doing the HG's the car has no power off the line and about 75% otherwise, I checked the timing and it's good. I did notice that when I rev it up, say 5500rpm it shows about 8psi of boost with no load!. I'm thinking that I've got the t-belts slighlty off by a tooth or so. Has anyone had a similar prob? I'm going to check them tomorrow morn. with any luck that's the prob here.

that's were all of my ea82t surging probs have originated on 3 cars now.

been there, Bill Potts is his name if I remember it right. He had an LSD still on a care a while ago but he has since sold it. I think I'm getting a second gl-10 sedan with a blown bottom end for a couple hun. Might make one really solid 4wd turbo sedan. There's a fair # of sube up for sale right now up here on the north island.

Rare, I just bought a gl-10 turbo sedan for $250 !!! I don't think anytown in North America has more subes than Nelson BC. Saltspring doesn't even come close, alot of N.I.M.B.Y.'s tho.

That's fubar guy, how well tq'ed down are/were your bolts on the head? I just had the engine out on my wagon and didn't do the hg's cause I was rushed for time and now it's gotta come out cause the hg 1-3 is gone. figures, lesson learned.

Our prices in Canuckistan are a little steeper... 65 for hg's, 23 for mickey mouse w/ o-ring, cam tower o-rings are about the same tho. The OEM exhaust gaskets I got look thicker than the oem's from last time, is there a difference between n/a and turbo ones? cause I'm thinkin that they gave me the n/a ones last time.

I've got all the gaskets I need for a complete reseal but time is the issue right now, trying to get it done tonight. going to do the intake gaskets and once I've got more time do all the gaskets and a new clutch too, maybe the rings bearings etc. or get this spare done up.

yeah 120 psi on a turbo is not too bad, I'm almost positive it was the intake gasket.

Background, coolant was coming out the exhaust so I did a compression test and got 120 psi on all cylinders w/a cold test, I pulled plugs and #3, i think[closest to passenger] was wet and looked like it had no combustion going on either. Exhaust note sounded a bit lunky and the motor ran a bit rough. The vac gauge read -20psi[whatever that is in Hg's] as it has since it was rebuilt. So...I pulled the engine thinking the HG was toast however when I pulled the intake assembly off I noticed both surfaces on the heads around the coolant passage were dirty and none of the 6 intake bolts were very snug and 1 was barely more than hand tight. Should I go at it and pull the t belts and do the HG's anyways or install the new intake gaskets and kick myself for not checking the intake bolts/gasket before pulling the engine. There was a good 1/8 of an inch of grease around the #1-3 coolant passage on the head/intake gasket. Any help/opinions/ suggestions appreciated.

So the head gasket's toast and I figured I'd repace the clutch while I'm at it too, but I'm not sure about the listings the parts guy has. If I understand all the posts I've read so far, the clutch I want is an 8 7/8x1x24 spline. The parts guy says this is also the same # for the xt6 as well, is this right? I thought guys were running the xt6 clutch for more grip but it seems that they are same as what's listed for a 87 4wd turbo.

They probly mean sliding dimmer switches, or any rheostat. I'm thinking that the conductive grease would cause some minor shorts and stop the dimmer from working properly. You can get contact coatings/grease but I think it's best to have a clean grease free contact so dirt/dust isn't attracted. my 2 cents... [...I am an Industrial Electrician]

My 1-3 HG blew yesterday, I'm pretty stoked it lasted this long. Sorry to hear you missed racing your rx, sounds like you made out OK tho. I am going to install a diy engine management kit this spring cause pistons are more of a pain in the rump roast to replace than HG's.

For the speedo cable hole in the trannie what about some epoxy putty? It'd be a lot quicker and if you slot it when it's cured could be removed like a proper plug too.

A good compound for auto connections is Noalox, or Penetrox [tradenames]. Both are available at home depot or an electrical store of some sort. It's mostly used for aluminum connections to prevent oxidation of lugs/conductor surfaces, it has high conductivity and is resistant to breakdown. Excellent for battery posts, starter lugs etc... and recently they've started selling small tubes of it [25 ml?] so yuou don't need to spend alot either.

looks good guy.

This is only true for high frequency or high voltage, the trade term is skin effect. Basically magnetic forces displace the current from the interior of the cable that's why high voltage power lines use 4 wires in a quad formation with brackets keeping them all parallel. As far as the currents concerned the might as well be 1.5 feet thick but it's really 4 small cables with a hollow core. Stranded is used in auto appl. cause it's flexible. If anything try to use a cable that's jacket is rated for oil/water/acid contact. Good grounds [it's actually called bonding] are important, but if your bond cables and connections are in good shape then you won't see much if any hp or perf. increase.