AKghandi

you can separate the outer cup from the rest of the axle and run it rwd. i dont recomend it though. i ruined my driveshaft.

I did a thread a while ago where i replaced the clock with a 4th gen itouch.. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/128425-ea82-dash-clock-ipod-upgrade-now-with-pics/

i think i need to do this soon.. my front diff is whining and my reverse is finnicky..when the trans is cold reverse just isnt there, i have to put it in with the clutch out and grind it a bit before putting the clutch in mid grnd to get it to work.

that same thing happend to me a while back. driving down the highway and i hear a tink!" and im like well that was odd... and then the car started over heating. i ended up driving to a subaru graveyard and getting another.

why not just put the spfi motor under the carb mani and put a webber on it? cheap easy and right around the same hp. only difference is the spfi has a higher CR

Hmm i already did thr oil pan so i guess ill just have to bite the bullet and do the rear main. Oh well i guess i can pull the motor again.. for the 3rd time

I have a 89 spfi and Im chasing a leak at the back of the motor and i was curious if the spfi have a seperator plate like the turbos?. This car may have a turbo block i know the pan is baffled but i dont remember if there was a seperator plate

Yeah i wanted rims from a mazda or isuzu in 14". I think 14's looks best on these with the smaller tires. If i had 31s id go 15. With my other wagon andbthe 29s on 15's there isnt enough sidewall height. When i air down i bend the lip when i hit stuff

so the last couple days have been a bit busy. first this i lifted the front, and put 3/4" spacers on the subframe. they are called shaft collars from ace. with a couple washers on either side. Picked up a set of 5 of these rims with 4 matching tires and a same size odd ball spare these are exactly the rims i was looking for, perfect offset. there were off an isuzu pup.

heres some motivation

i used a old tow strap with the strap tied together about 6" from the hooks, i then hook it to the rim and put the lifting foot under the strap. i wish i had pictures but i do not..

thats awesome! thanks

I have the same issue. My plan is some gas tank repair stuff then wraped with self fuseing silicon tape. Like ER or wrapit. Until i can find a replacemnt

I run 10-40- 20-50 depending on season. "5w30 not recomended for sustained high speed driving"

what weight oil do you use?

Double post

Funny you mention that ive got a 3.8sc fiero project on the back burner. Also the first gen rx7 rear is 3.91 gear ratio

i did some research a while ago and a first gen RX-7 rear axle is just about the perfect width for the subarus. and they can hold 400hp. and the suspension would be easily grafted on.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPtM61OyCIA&list=UUaBjY7wEWhXYlqFZePAkoIA

So i re did the oil pan gasket and it seems to have slowed its leak, i can still smell oil and im guessing its coming from the rear main

there's a reason old split rims are called widow makers

oil pump is still leaking. tomorrow im going to pull it into the garage and see why it refuses to stop leaking.

Well Today I got a lot done and i have no proof... my phone has been acting up. first, i found my front lift blocks, 2 inch BOSS second i got 4 matching wild country rvt radials 27"x8.50" r14 on the appropriate 6 lug rims. they have about 80% tread with studs..got a smoking deal at $50 third i lifted the rear with 4 runner struts and accord springs... stole them off my other wagon I could have used the rear lift brackets but i decided over load rear suspension would come in handy with my "expedition" type vehicle idea for those who are interested this is what wild country rvt's look like aside from all that i did a bunch of work on my lifted wagon.. mainly front wheel bearings.. brass punch and hammer FTW

Today I finally had time to reseal the front of the engine, it was leaking really really bad. the drivers side cam seal had blown out and it was leaving puddles. got the new cam seals and oil pump gaskets on, all with a nice thin layer of anaerobic sealer. doesn't seem to be leaking but its raining so its hard to tell. once it dries up I'll see if its still leaking or if some of the residual oil just dripped off. also Pro Tip. when putting on the timing belts, line the pointer up with the far right of the 3 marks on the fly wheel. turn the cam back a bit from pointing up so the teeth line up, put the belt on and then turn the crank to the middle line and release the tensioner. this causes the drive side of the belt to tension while having the timing lined up perfectly. car runs A LOT smoother now.

i think they wanted to show the other side of the spectrum the old like new and the old beat to utter crap and still functioning