suberdave

i am pretty sure i have a few around. i will look later. pay me shipping and they are yours. -=Suberdave=-

i live about 25 min north of Tacoma, and have an 87 with 3in' BYB kit on it. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

i would guess... yes...

like this these ones are sitting on the side of my house. -=Suberdave=-

i wouldnt even mess with it if it has 300K on the clock. you can find them with less miles for only a few more $$$ -=Suberdave=-

where about in wasington are you? i live just south of Seattle. maybe we could talk subaru some time. lets see. for an intake you can find a "spider intake" from an XT. witch makes it easer to plumb up an intercooler. many people are puttint TD04 Turbos from a WRX on the EA-82. you can up the boost on the stock turbo with a manual boost controler (dont go over about 9-10 PSI). a Turbo from a Turbo Legacy will bolt right to the up pipe but you will need a WRX down pipe. you can use a APC from a turbo Saab (boost controler & other fun stuff). for a sand rail you should look into finding a 3.9:1 Duel range trany and diff -=Suberdave=-

more info on your setup? are you using the stock ECU or standalone? Megasquirt? are you using the mass air flow sensor? stock Turbo? -=Suberdave=-

might have better luck in the retrofitting forum. but here here is some pics from my swap. EJ20G into 1.8T. http://www.suberdave.com/subaru/glwrxt/ you will need lots more then just the engine. like the whole wiring harniss. -=Suberdave=- www.suberdave.com

these are the races they are used to connect the WRX inner cups to the GL shaft they go insid the Green cup good luck on a FMIC, could be done but would not be easy. not a lot of room up there. i got all the dash gauges to work except the tach, had to use an autometer. O-Darn! and i installed a Boost guage, A/F ratio gauge, and a water temp gauge. and most importantly... it drives AWESOME!!!! i love it, a GL that can get out of its own way... could deffently use some suspension upgrades, a bit more body role than i would like. even with XT6 sway bar up front and GL-10 wagon bar in rear. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

ok first off. dont even start till you have the engine and trans. the EJ trans are much stronger than the EA trans, and they still brake when not drivin right. look around and find a front clip (with rear susp. and diff) or a recked WRX. that way you have everything you need. i would not go with a stand alone. i would use the stock ECU. much easer and you know it works. the engine, trans. and diff just about bolt right up (make sure you start with a turbo car or find a turbo cross member) for the rear diff you will need to shorten the drive shaft 55mm and you will need to buy custom converson races to adapt the WRX inner joint to the GL shaft. these cost me $6 ea. the trans you will need to find a 88ish XT6 3pc cross member use the front and rear from the XT6 and the center from the WRX, this way everything bolts up and looks stock. the shifter linkage needs to be shortened, one of the only parts that need to be welded. the WRX raidator will fit, just needs a little triming on the core support. but not much and some custom lower mounts. (dont try to use the GL rad) now use the front suspension from the WRX. struts, knuckles, hubs (now you have 5 lug) lower ball joint, tierod ends, and BRAKES, (larger rotors cross drilled if wanted, and two pot calipers) look around and find some XT6 rear hubs and stuff for the rear 5 lug stuff. the wireing is the hardest part, but with a little patiance you can do it. just find a wiring diagram and dont drink anything that will make it harder. follow it like a road map and its not to hard. Now go and play!!! any more ?'s send me a PM or post it here. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

Done, now your turn -=Suberdave=-

Only death will keep me from WCSS8... and maybe???? no only death. -=Suberdave=-

how do you have your fan connected? is it set to run whenever the engine is running? just connected to key on power and grounded at the fan? if so you need to put a diode in your power line, what happendes is when you shut the key off, the fan stoppes being a fan and turnes into a generator. when the fan stops turnning then the engine will stop running. just an idea, had this happen on one of my GL's and seen it many times on cars at work. as far as fuel milage. that could depend on many things. tire pressure dirty air cleaner, dirty injectors, need a tune up? i did a EJ20T in my GL-10 and it gets just over 20MPG i think thats awesome. but i guess i shouldnt even compair it to a EJ22... -=Suberdave=-

here is my wheel... its a nardi torino wheel from a 96 JDM STI... -=Suberdave=-

although i love my GL-10 seats. i beleave the RX seats have better support. and are much more comfortable. i just put RX seats in one of my wagons and now i wish i could find another set in the right color. -=Suberdave=-

i would not use the EA radiator on an EJ engine. i used a WRX radiator on my EJ20G swap. took a little work to get it into the stock location, but well worth it. i have always had overheating problems with my EA engines, (even with brand new 2 core radiators) when pulling a long hill or something. with the EJ radiator i have never seen the gauge go over half way. and i have put it under many heavy loads and worked it hard. i say spend the time and fit the EJ radiator to the EJ engine. this will be the best for dependability and reliability. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

im pretty sure the clutch on a 2WD is smaller than on a A/4WD. -=Suberdave=-

how about this one. from the christmas tree run 2005? -=Suberdave=-

sounds like you had better start on that swap... or find a new tranny. -=Suberdave=-

good to see you made it home. see you again next week. then the fun begens -=Suberdave=-

ran a few 0-60 times today, conditions were not all that good. only got to do 2 runs but the better of the two was 0-60 in 6.3 seconds. not to bad. but if conditions were better i think it would be closer to 6.0. this was with a GTACH. seemed to work pretty good. -=Suberdave=-

no problems yet... almost 1000 miles on my swap. but i think im gonna have to do some trans work this summer. -=Suberdave=- http://www.suberdave.com

to convert to a 5 lug you will need to find an XT6 you can take all of the front and rear suspension from. i too think it is easyer to drill to 6 lug. scott at http://www.sjrlift.com/ can help with the 6 lug hubs. -=Suberdave.com

it is in the I/P part of the speedo, i connected it at the F66 connector (the black one, one of the three big ones behind the fuse box) it is YR going in from the I/P and YG coming out of F66. i hope this helps. -=Superdave=-

i am using the R160 STI 4.111:1 LSD rear diff. i had to shorten the rear drive shaft 55mm and ordered custom inner races from http://www.rcvperformance.com/ part # 184-068A, (they were only $6 USD) then use the inner cup from the WRX CV shaft and the rest of the GL CV shaft. works awesome. as far as suspension i am using the STI front strut knuckle hub and brakes. and the rear is off of an XT6 disk set up. i am using the stock ECU from the WRX STI. and all the stock wiring. turned out to be a very clean install. dont know any 0-60 times yet. but should know this week. i am going to go and do some 0-60's on a Gtach monday i think. -=Suberdave=-