Fairtax4me

Figure about an hour and a half per strut for labor. Add another half hour to bleed the brakes. Plus a charge for "shop supplies". Strut prices vary pretty widely. If you have the shop order them, figure anywhere from $75-125 per strut.

Brake rotors don't last the life of the car. A car with 250,000 miles will generally be on its 3rd set of brake rotors. Napa rotors are good quality and cost much less than dealer parts.

03 will have the same process for axle change. The wheel wobble could be an axle issue, but check tread wear on the tires for any low spots. Also grab the wheel at opposite sides and top and bottom and try to rock it back / forth and in/out to check for any loose movement.

KYB. 'Nuff said.

These have a snap spring that pulls he pedal back all the way, but it also reverses when the pedal is pushed down, and helps make the pedal easier to push. About halfway of the pedal travel is the tipping point of the sprin, once past halfway it will flip and force the pedal in the direction of movement. If the pedal doesn't return more than halfway, the spring will continue to hold the pedal down, which is why it seems to "stick". But all that is is a lack of pressure in the hydraulics pushing back against the pedal. Most of the time its due to a leaking slave cylinder. Pull back the rubber dust boot on the slave cylinder and see if fluid dumps out. If it does, time to replace it.

Yeah, fuel pump is in the tank. That access plate is behind the right rear seat. Aftermarket pumps don't have the best track record, and they tend to cost a fortune. I agree with finding a used Subaru pump if you can.

What model? 5 speed auto or CVT transmission?

What year?

No IACV hose on the 99. The Idle Air control valve is bolted direct to the side of the throttle body and that style valve is known to gum up and stick. Remove the valve and clean it, as well as the bore inside the throttle body where the valve cone sits. This may remedy the problem temporarily. Usually this style of valve just needs to be replaced, but it only takes a few minutes to clean it and see if that makes a difference.

Just grab both front and rear bars off a 96-99 Legacy Outback wagon. I've done this on my 95, my 96, and my girlfriends 95, and it makes a world of difference. Do not upsize just the front bar. You'll get horrible understeer. Do both front and rear.

Codes are stored for usually 80 drive cycles so the code should still be stored in the ECU. Run it by an auto parts store. Most will scan codes for free.

Try to find an independent shop to do it. Dealers are mega expensive on labor. There used to be a few members here in/around Philly that worked on these. Try changing your thread title to Need Heater Core Replaced in Philly. The word "volunteer" implies that you don't intend to pay for the work.

Sounds like one of the big fuses under the hood blew. If you're using all those heated items at once they draw alot of current and sometimes an old fuse just can't handle it anymore. Certainly something you want to get fixed. You'll need that defroster real soon.

Sway bar links. Remove them and check for play, and take it for a short drive to see if the noise is still there. The ball type links are very difficult to check on the car. Also check the bushings that hold the bar to the frame.

Major difference between auto and manual engines is EGR. Pretty much all autos have EGR, while most manuals do not. The outback will need an engine with EGR or it will throw CEL.

Did you check voltage at the pump while it was running? Did you heck the connector terminals for burning/corrosion? Can you get another pressure guage to try?

Will your code reader read live data?

I think Gloyale meant to say Interference. Agreed, not a good idea on an interference engine. Exposure causes the belt and idlers to age faster. It's also open to sticks and debris getting caught in the belt. Do you want to pull the heads again and fix more bent valves?

Does it have a Subaru thermostat?

This usually happens when one speed sensor is dropping the signal. The ABS thinks one wheel is locking. This can be either a bad sensor or a corroded connection in the sensor plug, or a broken wire. I've seen all three cause this. Check the sensors and tone wheels for crud/dirt stuck in/on them, and check the wiring for any cuts or breaks in the insulation.

No real issues that I've heard of. There were some complaints in the early ones, 2010s, but i think those were all resolved pretty quickly. Keep clean fluid in it and it should last as long as any other transmission. Due to the tolerances and special tools needed to work on the CVT there isn't much on them that is considered "repairable". Generally if there is an internal problem the whole transmission will get replaced.

Check with your insurance company to find out how much they're going to charge you to insure the thing. An engine harness issue could certainly have caused a fire, necessitating replacement of many parts under the hood, including the hood due to paint damage. Pretty much, when any kind of electrical wiring is involved the limit for considering it a total loss is lowered. For example, most insurance companies have a limit of only $1,000 for water damage. If the initial estimate is over that amount they will total it simply due to the risk of future claims due to water getting into the wiring. Fire is similar in that even if you replace all of the areas that were initially damaged, there may be areas of the harness where damage is not apparent/visible. Fire/heat cause hardening of the insulation on the wires which can lead to problems down the road when the insulation cracks. Moisture can get in and cause corrosion, or the insulation can fall off and expose the wire which can then short against other wires or the metal of the car.

It happens all the time. https://www.google.com/search?q=subaru+cracked+release+fork&ie=UTF-8&oe=UTF-8&hl=en&client=safari#facrc=_

Good deal! Glad it's done! As for the TOB question. Nothing to worry about there. These tend to have a bit of a loose fit. Now onto the next project!

Firewall flex isn't the issue unless its rusted out and the pedal bracket is about to shove its way through the firewall. This could be a bad master cylinder. Check inside the boot on the pushrod for fluid. Or it could be a cracked release fork. Common on Subarus, and tends to happen after clutch replacement