Fairtax4me

Gotta go from underneath. I know it sounds like a pain but there isn't a good way to get enough leverage to crack the old one loose from the top. You also kinda need the exhaust to be hot when you try to remove the sensor. They don't like to loosen when the exhaust is cold. The steel sleeve shrinks around the sensor and makes it 10x harder to crack it loose. Rent the tool or just buy one for $15 on Amazon.

Alot of the newer cars you have to go in through the wheel well liner to get to the bulbs. The alternative is to remove the front bumper and remove the headlamp assembly from the car. Not as difficult as it sounds, but time consuming.

Different manufacturers use different finishes for corrosion/rust prevention. Some use a galvanized or other alloy plating, and some just paint them with some black paint or use a black powder coat. Outside appearance Doesn't affect the way it works inside. As long as it's the right shape and has the same inlet/outlet it's fine.

Normally wire problems in the rear hatch are due to broken wires in the flexible section where the wire harness jumps from the body to the hatch. If you don't find anything obvious there then you'll want to pull the panel off the hatch and look at the wiring in there for any breaks or obvious signs of damage. Check the wiring going to the LP lamps and compare the wire color there with the wires at the flex section. If you find the same color, test at the flex section for power on that wire. More than likely if the wiring is not broken at the flex and you have power up to that point, there is a break in the wire inside the hatch or a splice has corroded or broken between the flex and the lamp sockets.

Shot some starter fluid in the intake? Definitely has spark? Like WT said, check for codes.

Nothing wrong with it besides just being flippin COLD out there! Batteries don't produce as much current in cold weather. The chemical reaction that creates the flow of electrons can't happen as fast when it's cold out, and that goes the same for re-charging once the engine is running. It takes longer for the battery to recharge when it's far below freezing temp. A cold battery can show a very low state of charge on a tester even though it's totally fine.

I may be wrong but I think the digital units were only used in cars with the dual-zone/ automatic climate control, and won't work in the cars that have single-zone control.

If it's a slow leak and you don't mind the smell just leave it alone. People run to 200k with oil leaks, just have to keep a closer eye on the oil level.

Double check your timing marks. Don't use the arrow on the face of the crank sprocket. Timing notch is on the back. Keyway in the crank should be at 6 o clock when the crank is lined up correctly. Pic courtesy of Johnceggleston

The steel lines that are on the steering rack are not usually available separately. Cut the bad section out and flare the ends and stick a new section of tube in there. Do not use compression fittings because they won't hold up to the pressure.

Yes, better tires on the front. The front tires wear faster since they do the steering. Eventually they will even out.

Rod bearing. The corner of the bearing cap is hitting the block inside. She TOATS.

A side should be the passenger side. How long since the last oil change? These OCVs need super clean oil or they get clogged or sticky and cause problems. Full synthetic oil and high quality filters are a MUST!

Ground wires are usually brown. There should be 3-4 of them in a group going to an eyelet bolted to the manifold. On the 95s the ground is way down at the base of the number 4 runner facing toward the firewall. Those also go through the main engine harness connectors on the front left corner of the engine.

Transmission problems are often just a mask for engine running problems. The TCU uses input from engine sensors to determine proper shift points for the trans based on a calculated engine load. The MAP sensor/atmospheric pressure sensor on the engine is one of the sensors it needs input from to properly determine the engine load. Usually a MAP sensor problem is just due to a split or broken vacuum hose. Check all of the vacuum hoses on the engine. A vacuum leak would cause sluggish acceleration or hesitation. When was the last time this car had a tune-up? NGK spark plugs and wires, air and fuel filters? Subaru PCV valve?

Sounds like your timing marks are off. Did you remove the cam sprockets? They all look similar but the timing notch marks are in different places on each. With all the notch marks properly lined up on the cams, the arrows on the cam sprockets will all be pointing the same direction 45° clockwise. The arrows are not used for timing, but they can shed a clue as to whether your sprockets are in the wrong places. The crankshaft timing mark is on the back edge of the sprocket. The key on the sprocket should be straight down at 6 o'clock and the small arrow mark on the face should be at 3 o'clock.

Yeah that big round bushing if it's just kinda loose but isn't ripped or torn you can wrap it with gorilla tape a couple times and stuff it back in there. You'd be surprised how well gorilla tape holds up.

Not the rack and pinion. Sounds like the Front pinion gear inside the trans.

Funny that fuel sample is pretty close to e85. I would guess the gas station got a tank of bad fuel from its supplier. The ECU controls all of the various solenoids and relays on the engine and in the car. If the ECU has a poor ground that could account for the weird symptoms. On the 95+ cars the ECU grounds to the intake manifold, I would assume 94 is similar, though I don't know for sure.

Might be an axle but kinda sounds like a tooth got knocked off the front pinion gear. Jack it up and spin the wheels and see if anything makes noise.

Yeah I know the #17 is still available, but it seems they've superseded the part number and Opposedforces doesn't list it, at least not for that year vehicle. I'm not sure of the last time they actually updated that site. Seems like it may be going down the Internet tube...

Pretty sure those use the same fuse as the other tail lights. Bulbs can look good and still not work, have you swapped them just to check? Also have seen plenty of dirty contacts on LP lights cause them to not work. Remove them clean the contacts and reinstall with di-electric grease to prevent corrosion. Use a Voltmeter to verify you're getting 12v to the sockets and make sure the ground is good. If not, look into a possible wire problem.

With either one bad you could still get spark but it may not be in proper time. Hard to tell in the pics but it looks like the drivers side cam may be off a bit. I see something just about 1/2" to the left of the paint on that drivers cam but can't tell if it's the notch mark or just a knick. Are the notch marks under the paint on yours? Sometimes the notch marks are painted and sometimes not. Did you remove the cam pulleys for any reason? Isnt the main engine wire harness connector just above the drivers side head? Did you have to unplug that to get to the covers? If so did any dirt get in there? Any bent pins? They can also be a pain to get clicked back together all the way.

It's hard to find aftermarket electrical parts for these. Youre not the first to have a Cheapo ignition switch die and make a smoke show. Something you may want to look into is how much current is being pulled through that switch. Leave some of the plastic off of the column and feel that switch to see if it's getting hot after the car has been running a while. Do you have any aftermarket accessories hooked up in the car? Chargers/inverters? Lights? Stereo equipment? Etc.

How long since it had a tune-up? Spark plugs? O2 sensors original?