Fairtax4me

Hows the fluid level? Condition? How many miles on the car? Has the fluid ever been changed? Is this the 5 speed auto or the CVT trans?

Head gaskets are metal. Metal doesn't dry out. Valve cover gaskets or other o-ring type or rubber gaskets can be said to be "dry" when they get old and harden and crack due to volatile vapor exposure. But head gaskets aren't affected by petroleum. Plenty of reasons that can cause head gaskets to go bad, sitting around with no coolant in the block isn't one of them.

Spray some lithium grease in the latch to get it greased up. Should make it work like new again. Be sure to spray your hood latch as well. Broken trunk release cable isn't a big deal. A broken hood latch cable is a pita to replace, after you have to figure out how to get the hood open from below the front bumper.

Automatics are usually pretty simple. Usually if they don't pop right together it's because the torque converter isn't seated all the way in the transmission. If it gets forced together it will damage the transmission pump and the trans will be useless. Make sure the torque converter is seated properly.

On a brand new pump you usually have to put some engine oil or assembly lube in it and spin it around a few times before installing. Otherwise the oil that comes in the pump isn't sufficient to build the vacuum needed to suck oil up the pickup tube. I would also question the quality of an aftermarket pump. Subaru pumps almost never fail. No point in replacing it.

A failing TOB will eventually cause major damage when it locks up entirely. You generally don't have long when it starts making noise. A couple weeks at most.

Usually if they sit for a few hours they bleed down on their own. I assume you've started it and it ran like poo, thus finding out no compression? Try starting it again, see if its still rough.

Did you remove the rocker shaft for any reason? The lash hydraulic adjusters can stick at full extension and hang the valves open.

Likely just the motor going bad. Used should be fine. These don't seem to fail... Ever. I've replaced dozens on Fords and Chevys and they are never easy. Not sure how the flaps are arranged on the Subaru. Hopefully you pull the screws out and the actuator pops right off.

If you can get to the fuel pump relay, just jump the relay so the pump runs constantly. Pull the supply hose off the filter and stick it in a gas can.

Tensioner should go on last. If you can't get the tensioner on the belt isn't set right. Get the belt on right, marks all lined up and the tensioner drops right into place.

I wouldn't think twice about an Ej22 with 220k on it. The two I have are at 256k and 261k.

Original Subaru axles are tough. If it has green paint on the cups just go ahead and re-boot it. I'm running two in my 96 that I've rebooted even after running them with split boots for 6-8 months. Axle nut should be torqued to 135ft lbs with no weight on the hub. I use a big screwdriver to jam the brake rotor. Torquing the axle nut with the wheel on the ground with a new wheel bearing ca ruin the bearing. With an old bearing it's probably fine. You should re-torque it to 135 though and make sure the axle nut is staked in place.

Lifters get air in them and collapse and they'll knock louder than a sonuvawitch for a little while then clear up as the air pumps out and they fill back up. Not sure why the crank would be locking up unless maybe there was a chunk of carbon or something in one of the cylinders.

Axle is a cheap pos. It's defective. Take it back. Get a boot kit for your original axle and re-build it. The inner ends are super easy to clean up and rebuild.

Entirely possible the engine came from a car with 132k on it. The engine was swapped at some point, and the yard didn't check/compare the vin on the engine block to the car. I don't see why you wouldn't just put some head gaskets on yours and keep driving it. It's a weekend job.

If it started doing this immediately after engine work, then it's most likely engine related, not transmission. I would guess a broken or loose vacuum hose, or one of the breather or PCV hoses isn't connected quite right, or the ends split down at the valve cover. Timing could be off as well. Sometimes the marks don't line up quite right with those plastic covers. Knock sensor won't respond to valve noise unless something is physically wrong with the sensor. Bolt too tight, corroded element, etc.

I explained that. Read it again.

This doesn't happen with Subaru thermostats. Cheapo aftermarket stats, yes, but not Subaru thermostats. The wax chamber on Subaru thermostat is huge specifically to prevent the thermostat from closing rapidly. Stick one in a pot of boiling water until it opens then remove it and set it out in open air and compare it's action to a Cheapo. Since the thermostat is on the inlet side of the water pump, it's bathed in cold coolant all the time (cold being a relative term) The coolant route through the heater core is designed to bring hot coolant back around to the back side of the thermostat which helps keep it open. If the heater core or its hoses are clogged (including the steel lines that run to the crossover tube and to the water pump) and the flow is blocked, it won't move enough hot coolant back around to the thermostat to keep it open. The colder coolant coming in from the radiator will cause it to close.

It was always 1/4" circumference on the older models. You should be fine to get just one tire. Put it on the front left.

Broken gears would have left big chunks but they may not be able to get out through the drain plug. Possibke the trans or rear diff were replaced before and the final drive ratios were mismatched. The automatics have some problems with the transfer clutches and can cause the transfer drum to shear off. This causes no drive to the rear wheels which would give you front wheel drive only.

There main wire harness for the interior is behind the left fender. Possible there was wire damage caused by the accident. Did you replace the fender or did someone else?

When you pressed the hubs in did you support the inner bearing race? Those races need to be together when pressing the hub in or it will damage the bearing.

Tuff-stuff upholstery cleaner.

Lug studs have a knurled shank at the base. The knurling is deformed when the stud is pressed in and it holds the stud in place.