Fairtax4me

Have you checked fuel pressure with a guage? 02 has the funny cap thing on the fuel pump that will break and bleed fuel pressure back into the tank. Does it have a MAF sensor? Or is it MAP?

What Gary is saying is you have a code for the G sensor, the sensors/wiring at the wheels are not going to affect that. The console cover shouldn't be difficult to remove. I don't have exact directions for that year, but normally there are a few screws at the front or rear edge and once those are removed it should just pull up. Google/youtube, I'm sure someone has posted a video or write-up somewhere. As for the sensor. It makes no sense to replace the sensor without first checking the wiring and connector at the sensor for damage or corrosion. Sometimes even just unplugging it and plugging it back in will cure an intermittent connection problem. It should be a small box mounted to the tunnel pan.

U-joint on the driveshaft. There's another thread right now about the same thing except his has already broken. Yours is on its way and it doesn't end well. It could break the yoke, or it could rip the whole tail housing off of the trans. Don't drive it until you replace the driveshaft.

Checked in the trunk? Spare tire, jack or jack handle could be loose and move around under hard acceleration. Any shudders or vibration? Metal on metal sound I would be checking U-joints and any suspension bushings that are back there. 05 has the multi-link rear suspension so lots of places for wear.

Need to figure out what you're losing. Power or ground. The control side of the relay is grounded by the ECU. If the ECU is losing ground you may get this problem. The ECU grounds to the intake manifold on the engine. On that year it should be on top near the right side of the ignition coil.

Grab the hood and pull up on it? Maybe the latch has already opened but the hood didn't push up. Or have someone else pull the release while you pull up on the hood. If the cable were broken you would have yanked it out of the sheath with the pliers.

Not necessarily. Sometimes they wear a little funny and can bind a bit right at the end before it pops out. This would certainly happen if the shaft was wobbling around for a long time (causing your shudder on acceleration). Just yank on it a little harder. Sometimes it helps to turn the yoke as you pull outward. The tail housing is replaceable. You can unbolt it and install a used tailhousing if the bushing sleeve is too damaged or if you find damage to the output shaft or bearings.

Is the cable still attached to the release lever inside? I've seen a few cars where the release breaks and the cable isn't attached anymore. Have also seen the cable sheath pop loose from the bracket that holds it just behind the lever. If the sheath moves with the cable it won't pull the other end.

I would start at the pump housing since that's probably the most accessible. Remove the line there and see if you can then blow air through it. If it flows freely after that its a blockage in the return pipe on the pump housing. Where do the fuel lines run on those? Not familiar with those models. If they run under the floor pan of the car its possible one got pinched at some point while out driving. Or when a jack was put under the car If the lines are near the pinch rails. Find where the lines run and inspect them closely.

Does it only happen in sub-freezing temperatures? There was a TSB on 95 and earlier model ej18 and ej22 IIRC about the tips of the injectors icing in cold weather and blocking fuel flow or disturbing the spray pattern. The fix was to replace the injectors with a new style.

If a bearing was worn you would probably have some play in it somewhere. Sounds to me like something is dragging on the tube. There's a support cover just in front of the diff and could have a rock or something stuck in there rubbing on the tube.

Something is dragging on the driveshaft. Heat shield or maybe a rock.

Might have got lucky. Can you spin the yoke that's still in the trans? You may have to pull the shift lever on the side of the trans to get it out of park. If it spins easy and you don't feel any wobble or up/down play, pull the yoke out and see if its scored or marred. If it looks smooth then you can probably get by with replacing the driveshaft, the gear shift assembly and the shift cable.

There should be two ECT sensors, one with a single wire, which is only for the gauge. One with a 2 wire connector which is for the computer. Which one did you replace?

Maybe bad u-joint caused the driveshaft to break and blew the tailhousing apart. Hard to say. Moving parts have a finite lifespan. Failure is not common with these transmissions, but anything can fail.

That's because the pickup sensor was mounted on the side of the trans directly next to the bearing. There was a bit of a whir sound coming from the trans in neutral, but not much. It wasn't very noticeable from inside the car. The real noise was most obvious once it was in gear and moving. A metallic knocking similar to a bad rod bearing.

What size are you looking for? 1/2", 3/8", 1/4"?

Kinda early for a mainshaft bearing failure, but that's a common problem on these transmissions. Sounds kinda like this. http://vid145.photobucket.com/albums/r236/CadiLLacPimPin97/Car%20Videos/transnoiseCE.mp4 Used trans would be the best way. These are way difficult to rebuild and the cost is astronomical.

No, the computer wont set a code for an O2 sensor right away. Seems odd, but that's just how they're programmed on the early OBD2 cars.

Legacy platform has about a 4" longer wheelbase than the Impreza. Width is roughly the same, so might be close enough. I haven't heard of this, but it would be interesting to know if it works.

No no no no no!!! Drain that Lucas stuff out now!!! Lucas does NOT work well in Subaru transmissions. Either run plain 80w90, or drop $90 on 4 liters of Motul 300.

When you replaced the clutch did you remove the flywheel for any reason? If so, did you use a torque wrench to torque the flywheel bolts? Did you use a torque wrench to torque the pressure plate bolts?

AZP certainly knows their stuff. A well respected shop for sure. Hopefully they got it taken care of, but be sure to keep an eye on the coolant level for the next few weeks and make sure it doesn't drop.

Ok, can't do that either. Throttle cable has to have some slack in it. If the throttle plate is held open the airflow through the throttle body will not be correct for the ECU to set and maintain idle speed. It can also push the TPS signal out of range. Loosen the cable and make sure the throttle plate closes all the way. There should be about 1/8" of slack in the cable. Also be sure the cruise control cable has slack as well if you have cruise installed. After that use a voltmeter to check voltage on the center wire of the TPS. Use a paper clip to back-probe the connector. Voltage should be 0.50-0.55v. If voltage is out of range loosen the screws on the TPS and adjust slightly until the voltage is within that range. After that, disconnect the battery negative for a few minutes to reset the ECU. Reconnect the battery and start the engine, DO NOT use the throttle to control idle speed. Let the ECU control idle and make its own adjustments. If the engine stalls simply turn the key off and restart. Let the engine warm up to normal operating temp. If you still have an idle problem after this, its due to either a vacuum leak, or some other sensor being out of range.

Yes, two ways to test the TPS . You can Either check voltage on the center pin with it still connected (easier IMO). Or you can unplug the TPS and check resistance from the center pin to either outer pin. Since digital meters often don't show a smooth change in voltage or resistance, it's usually best to check this with an analog meter so you can watch the needle for any quick jumps. If you've been having this problem for years, water in the fuel is not likely.