Fairtax4me

I had a similar issue with my 96 Legacy. I'd be boogyin along at 70 on the interstate and hit a hill and have to downshift to keep it over 60. Was a big vacuum leak. The Evap purge solenoid had split a seal or something and air was just rushing right through when it was supposed to be closed. Fixed that and it's been peachy. Check around for split hoses. Any that are really hard (can't squeeze it with your finger) you should just replace.

On the old EJ22 there's a cover on the top, passenger side of the bell housing, dunno about on the newer engines. I don't see how the starter pinion would make contact with the flywheel unless the kick out solenoid is messed up or something. It might be worth it to remove the starter and do a visual check of the ring gear to see if there is any noticeable damage to the teeth. There is a clip of some sort that goes on the transmission side of the torque converter on older cars. I wonder if something like that might have popped loose?

I've had that "cold" for like a month. It just keeps lingering around. :-\ Did you happen to check if there was any play in the transmission input shaft while you had the engine out? Did you check the movement of the throwout arm and bearing to be sure it's returning all the way? When it shakes is it just when rolling? Jack up the car, put it in first or second gear and just let it idle. The wheels will be moving, but not fast. Then you can hunt around for the noise yourself Is this car FWD or AWD?

You can try a spark plug non fouler. It pulls the sensor back out of the main exhaust stream so it reads a higher oxygen content. People often use them after gutting the cat to keep the light off. They're $2 and change at most parts stores so if it doesn't work it's not a big loss.

Yes. The piston pushes on the inside pad. If the slide pins are seized or sticking they will act as a fulcrum or hinge and push the outer pad towards the hub. Causing only the inner edge of the pad to make contact with the rotor. There's not a 100% guarantee that that's the problem, but it's pretty common on old calipers for the pins to "stick" due to rust or corrosion.

This has been bugging me all day. That's what happens when its slow at work. I always end up brainstorming. The only problem with the clutch theory is that the noise sounds like it goes away when the car stops moving. It sounds like the clutch the way you described it, but what I hear in the video doesn't seem to go along with that. In the video it's hard to tell if it's making the noise when the car is driving because of engine noise. But it becomes much more audible about the time the turn signal is turned on. Obviously you're slowing down at that point to make a turn, and the sound stops seemingly at about the same time the car stops. Does that sound about right? Has it ever made the noise when the car was sitting still? If you put the car in gear and just idle along at a low speed will it make the sound? What about if you stop and cut off the engine on a hill and let the car roll slowly down the hill with the transmission in neutral? I would try to get the car either up on a lift or on 4 jack stands so all the wheels are off the ground, and have a friend "drive" the car while you listen around and try to track down the general area of the noise. I think there's still a change it might be clutch related. I think you should try to cover every other possibility before pulling the engine and replacing the clutch again. I hate to do a lot of work and spend a bunch of money and then still have the same problem when it's done.

Always replace struts and/or springs in pairs. Unless they're both fairly new and one fails prematurely. The pad at the top is called the strut mount and it is bolted to the top of the strut. Those need to be bought separately. The "sleeve" is probably the strut boot and the new one should come with a new boot. (assuming you bought a decent quality part). Do you have spring compressor? Because you can't replace the strut alone without one. It's a lot easier to buy a pair of struts with springs from a junk yard and swap the whole assembly at once.

It should be an even wear pattern and should be evident within 20 miles or so of driving. Uneven wear would indicate the pad is installed incorrectly or the slide pins are seized preventing the caliper from moving to balance braking force on both sides of the rotor the way it's supposed to.

That's about what I expected to see under there.

And you'll probably have to remove the front bumper if you ever need to change the headlamp assembly. Gotta love new cars.

You guys gave me another idea for stuff to look for at the junkyard. Heated mirrors would be nice now that the weather is getting cold here.

ABS problems are always fun. Unfortunately there's not much way to scan them unless you go to a dealer or find someone with a scan tool capable of checking ABS systems. You can do some visual checks. Make sure the brake fluid is topped off, and make sure the wiring to the wheel speed sensors isn't cut or crimped. It might also be a good idea to have the battery and alternator tested. Sometimes Low voltage can set off various lights and cause general disarray with the electronic components in the car. Get the CEL codes read and post the code numbers here. Most parts stores will scan a CEL for free, and they can also test the battery and alternator while you're there.

Well... did he cut out the holes under the scoop for air to flow into the engine bay?

Well I'd say it is clutch related for sure based on what you've described. That the sound slowly goes away when the clutch pedal is depressed makes me think that it's maybe something dragging on the hub of the clutch disc. Maybe one of the anti chatter springs is broken and bouncing around or something I dunno. I hate to say it but I think the engine or trans will need to be pulled so you can have a closer look at what's in there. There's also the possibility that it's something in the transmission. But I don't think anything in there would make that kind of noise...

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Thanks for the info Rob. So if the condenser goes bad, the contacts in the relay might burn, which would prevent "full flow" to the defogger grid. Any way I could test the condenser to see if it's working correctly? Probably need something I don't have. I think I'll hunt down the relay out see what I get for V in vs V out when it's activated.

Electricity takes the path of least resistance. Considering that the resistance of air is about 10k ohms per centimeter, I would think (actually know because I've done it) that the spark plug that is grounded to the engine will fire long before the spark is going to jump several inches or more of open air through the wire on the other side of the coil. Not saying that it's not gonna hurt if you hold the wire to close to the end of the boot. Use plug boot pliers if you have them.

Right under the center console is gonna be about the area of the center drive shaft support bearing. It should have a bushing on it to isolate vibration, the bushings tend to wear out after a while and will allow the driveshaft to wobble when torque is applied during acceleration.

Some people recommend using a very small amount of RTV or anaerobic sealer around the outer edge of the seal to help prevent leaks between the seal and the block. I like to use a piece of PVC pipe or a block of wood to drive new seals in. Then I can smack it with a mini sledge and get it seated with just a few hits. Makes it easier than trying to tap around the edge a little at a time.

I'll see if I can find it in the trunk and see what all is involved with the thing. I have finally found the time to get in there and see what the deal is with the "slow" defogger. With 13.7 volts at the battery with the defroster on, I'm only getting 12.5 volts at the connector on the window, engine off. That was when I started looking for the diagram. I'd like to track the voltage drop through the whole journey from battery to window and maybe figure out why it's losing so much. There are a few connectors it has to travel through on the way there, plenty of room for resistance, corrosion, and general poor connections. I'm also gonna pick up an ammeter and see if it's pulling enough amperage to get it to the rated 160W that the FSM says the rear defogger should be.

Kinda sounds like a blown out catalytic converter maybe? My speakers kinda suck so it's hard to say. Except it sounds like it changes with wheel speed. I'd be interested to know if it occurs when out of gear (transmission in neutral clutch released) while the car is coasting, and if it does it with the engine off.

Old ej22 with a bad head gasket, sounds kinda unlikely. Do a block test to see if exhaust gases are getting in the coolant. Do the fans work?

Yes, the dogbone mount can be unbolted temporarily with no ill effects as long as you don't try to drive too hard with it like that. It's there to keep the engine from pitching fore/aft when you ac/decelerate. (pitch stopper...) The transmission mount will take up the slack when the dog bone is un-mounted, Just don't accelerate too hard, or use the engine as a brake and it will be fine.

Looking at the wiring diagram for the rear window defogger in my car and I see this thing called the rear defogger condenser. Any ideas what it's for? I'm guessing it's just a capacitor, but can't imagine why it would need it. Let me see if I can upload a copy of the diagram...