Fairtax4me

Gearwrench is the brand. http://www.gearwrench.com/catalog/xl_pass-thru_system/gearratchet/ Really cool tools, but the price tags are up there. Lifetime warranty on all tools. And they're tough as nails.

Reason I asked was because most Evap codes are two trips faults. Meaning that the fault has to occur on two separate "trip drive cycles" or trips in a row before it will set the CEL. If you make a couple of short drives each day the ECU may not have time to finish the checks that constitute a "drive cycle" for that system. What a drive cycle consists of changes for each monitoring system in the car. So a simple 5 minute drive may be enough for one system. But for another system there may be numerous conditions that need to be met in order for the cycle to be considered "complete". Plug in the two green connectors under the dash as suggested, and see if the vent control solenoid clicks when it is engaged. It should be accessible under the car near the fuel tank.

Not really. A Gearwrench ratchet would probably come in handy for something like that. They make extensions that are hollow so you can fit sockets over extremely long studs or threaded rods.

Search around the internet, Factory service manuals are available in PDF form. I have one for my 96. You might even put a thread in the wanted section and see if anyone on the board here can email you a copy. How far do you generally drive each day?

Oh, not the new pulley but a different one altogether. Could have been damaged when the other pulley blew up. They are plastic, and plastic generally gets brittle with age. Inspect the belt, replace if necessary (probably necessary), and install a new pulley is about all you can do. Then find something else to break. Like the dome light. Because if one thing is broken and you fix it, something else that is required for proper operation will break. So if you break something that isn't too important, nothing else that really matters will break. It's one of those car laws. Like right after you detail the car a bird will use it for target practice.

Only pumps that I know of that make noise even when they're fine are on Mercedes' or Fords. And at that the Merc pumps only make noise at start up, they quit after a few seconds, unlike Ford pumps which whine continuously even after warmed up. I would think that if yours is making noise and the fluid level is fine then it's probably on it's way own the drain. (btw foaming will make the level appear higher, best to check it when the fluid has had time to settle)

Bad luck? Maybe the belt was too tight?

There is an access port. It's under the carpet behind the rear seat. In the trunk on sedans, but either wagon or sedan it is still easily accessible.

Does it stay in just second gear if you slow down or stop? Or will it use first and second when this happens?

I don't think you eve have to do that. This has been discussed many times here. The search function is your friend.

Can't hurt, Seafoam is the shtuff! And it'll at least clean the injectors a bit if nothing else. Seems kinda strange that it does it only when its under a half tank. Have you tried keeping it above a half tank for a few weeks to see if it stays away? (or is that how you figured out that it only comes on under a half tank :-\) edited for content which isn't allowed by the blocker. Muh bad. :-P

Put a bottle or two of fuel stabilizer in the tank. Throw a cover over it. The rest will be dealt with after coming out of storage.

You could take it to Earl Scheib. I'll paint any car for just $99.95!

The switch plate just pops out. Get a hook pick tool and stick it in the hole by the switch and give it a good tug it will pop off. Or you can jam a plastic assembly wedge under the bottom edge if you have one. I promise there are no screws behind there.

Done that quite a few times. Usually it's snowing at midnight when I have to do tedious crap like that. The steering wheel, take out the two screws on either side, disconnect the plug for the airbag module, it's a funny clip that has to be worked a certain way. Then loosen the bolt or nut in the middle of the wheel, turn it out about 1/4" but don't take it off completely. Then give the wheel a few good tugs and it will pop loose. You leave the bolt there so that when the wheel pops off you don't hit yourself in the face with it.

The CEL should come on for a few seconds when you start the car and then go out. If it doesn't come on at all the bulb is probably burned out.

I feel the same way with mine. I haven't put much into it yet, but every time I turn around I find something else I need or want to do for PM. I think the "planned" list is up to about $1400 now. I can junkyard a few things for the time being but that just makes it cost more in the long run. Eventually I'll have to buy new parts if I don't want to be working on it every 3 weeks.

Should be a diagram sticker on the bottom of the hood.

The "canister filter' is probably the pump strainer, and there is really not much need to replace that unless you plan to have the pump out for replacement. It's not a fine filter like the one under the hood. It's there for bigger stuff like larger sediment.

Getting all of the air out helps. There should be a plug on top of the radiator for bleeding. Might help to park the front end uphill when refilling. There are tons of overheating threads here, I'm sure there is a writeup in the USRM about how to bleed the cooling system.

If it's there, it's probably there for a reason. Get a new one from Subaru, can't cost more than a few bucks. Search the boards as suggested earlier for more detailed instructions.

X2 Have the system pressure tested to check for leaks. Get a new thermostat and a new radiator cap. Refill and bleed the system.

The Hella lights will work better, but you should make sure they're legal for on-road use in your state before installing them.

There's no screws behind the switch but you need to get it out to disconnect the wire harness. I think there's a clip back there though. Should just pop out with a good tug. Pull the bottom of the panel outwards and stick your hand up behind there to get more direct pressure on it.

It's such a pain in the rump roast to get to the idlers on these, (or any other car for that matter) you'd be stupid not to replace them while you have easy access. In 6 months when that one idler that you decided not to replace locks up and snaps the timing belt, you get to tear the front half of the engine off again, and spend more money on another new belt.