Fairtax4me

Fix it in a can repairs rarely work. And often compound problems after wards by clogging cooling system components. I'd save the time and money and just do it right.

Yes it can. With no signal from the crank position sensor the ECU doesn't know when the crankshaft is turning. It uses that signal to determine when to fire the spark plugs based on the angle of the crankshaft.

I don't know much about these but it sounds like an old simple ignition system. This "resistor/amplifier" thingy sounds like an ignition noise filter. edit: Nvm, I missed the part where you swapped the coil into your car to test operation. Make sure the coil is getting power and make sure it is grounded properly. I'm not sure what kind of guts are in the distributor on those so I can't help much further atm.

I like my truck more and more when I see pictures like that. Well sorry if I stepped on your feelings, but maybe we should get back on topic.

Sound like perfect examples of automotive engineering to me.

Yes, but what's to stop them from using two separate cores even though it only really needs one?

Nice find! Hopefully I can make mine look that nice some day. I've never been a big fan of white cars but I think it looks pretty good with the wheels and spoiler. Can't be that hard to make it start. I'd pull the timing covers and check the belt and make sure the timing marks line up on both sides. Could also be something simple like a CPS. I'd get rid of that stupid filter. Sucking in hot air from the engine compartment doesn't help performance.

This sounds like a common issue in some Ford and Lincoln cars with dual climate control systems. On those cars there is a valve that controls coolant flow to two separate heater cores. The valve nearly always fails one side fully open. So one core gets full flow of hot coolant, and the other is still regulated normally. Resulting in one side of the cabin getting hot air no matter what the setting, heat or AC, and the other side functions perfectly. I don't know anything about the climate systems on newer Subarus, but I can see how this may be a possibility if your car has a similar setup. Open the hood and try to find the hoses for the heater core. They're usually pretty easy to identify, but hard to follow because engineers always choose the most twisted and obstructed path they can find to route them.

That's a good clue. Did you try to move the top and bottom of the wheel? Did you check the lug nuts? I have left lug nuts loose a few times after doing suspension or brake work, and driven down the road a half mile or more before I realized what was up. If the movement is only fore/aft then it would be a bad tie rod end, or possibly a severely worn lower ball joint. Either of those would make a noticeable clunk though when driving. It could also be the wheel bearing. It would have to be REALLY bad, rephrase that, a completely SHOT wheel bearing to throw off the alignment of the wheel enough to make it wobble noticeably and it would make a terrible noise.

P0301-4 Misfire in cylinder 1 - 4. The last number is respective to the cylinder which has experienced the misfire. P0172 is probably caused by the misfiring, but could also be an O2 sensor on the way out. The O2 sensor can also cause misfiring, though the intermittance may point to a bad connection. I second Nippers suggestion to spray down the ignition coil and spark plug wires and look for arcing. edit: adding on. You could also try unplugging the wire harness connectors for the ignition coil and make sure it is free of dirt, water, and corrosion. The MAF sensor can be cleaned with a special cleaner available at most auto parts stores. Its usually about $4 or $5 a can and is easy to use. It only does it when driving, so it could be something to do with the knock sensor. That is easy enough to remove and inspect. Generally if the case has any cracks, it is possible that moisture has gotten inside and corroded the sensor.

Up at the top of the list of threads there is a "New Thread" button.

The IAC motor can be adjusted. Here's a little explanation of how it works from a previous thread... The thread is HERE and has some good info in it. Basically the servo motor has to be set near the center of the allowable travel. It can be fine tuned better than that but you need a laptop with diagnostic equipment or a good scan tool that can read the duty cycle of the valve. I think if you get it close enough you can at least get the idle speed to come back down to a reasonable level.

This sounds like a fun one. It only does this when driving, correct? There are quite a few things that come to mind, but knowing which DTCs it is throwing will help steer diagnosis in the right direction.

I've used Firestone Winterforce tires before, and they work well enough, but only lasted two seasons. A friend of mine picked up a set of Snowtrakker tires I think they're called, don't know who makes them or where to even get them. But he's had them on his Volvo wagon for 3 FULL years now, winter and summer, and they still have plenty of tread left. And he puts about 25k miles a year on that car.

There are two different types of fuel system pressure testers. A fuel injection system pressure tester kit is what you need. Most any auto parts store will carry them, but expect to pay $50+ in a store. Ebay or Amazon will have cheaper alternatives. A vacuum test gauge can also be bought at any nearly parts store. Be sure to ask for a vacuum TEST gauge, not a dash mount vacuum gauge. Most will look similar to this http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CPINHA/ref=asc_df_B000CPINHA950299?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&tag=googlecom09c9-20&linkCode=asn&creative=380341&creativeASIN=B000CPINHA and can double as fuel pressure gauges for cars with carburetors and low pressure mechanical pumps. Do NOT try to use that style of gauge to test high pressure fuel injection systems. Compression improves once the engine is warm due to expansion of the pistons and rings. Compression tests are generally done on a warm engine if possible to get a more accurate reading. So yes it is possible it can be a compression related issue. Yes, it would seem pretty unlikely for the injectors to all go kaput at the same time. But it's not impossible. You might have to consider taking this to a shop for a diagnosis. I think you're gonna be looking at quite an investment just for the tools to check into this further. And throwing parts at it is hit or miss. You could replace every sensor on the engine and still not have an answer.

Yes, repeated changes will help to essentially "flush out" dirt and grime that may be built up in the transmission. Use the cheap $5 a gallon 80w90 stuff they sell at Autozone for that. Change it, drive it a little while (like a week) then change it again. Do that several times lengthening the interval between changes each time.

So the misfire happens at idle and when driving? Have you hooked up a spark tester and checked for consistent spark at each plug? Have you checked fuel pressure? Compression? Engine vacuum at idle? Try checking the resistance across the fuel injectors. There's not really a way to check the fuel injectors spray pattern or flow rate on without special equipment, but if you can find a shop in your area that can test and clean them it might be worth a shot. You should also remove the timing belt end covers and see if the cams are in alignment.

I've found some info about the differences in API oil grading specifications. This guys english is a bit dodgy, but you should be able to make out the basic point, that the main differences between GL-4 and GL-5 are the amount of antiscuffing additives, not necessarily the additives themselves. Found that info here: http://forums.noria.com/eve/forums/a/tpc/f/826604995/m/169106369

You should have a backlight, and a separate light when the switch is activated. From what I understand, it uses the same bulb as the back lighting in HVAC control panel. You'll have to disassemble the switch to replace it, but it's entirely possible and the bulbs are cheap from radio shack. And yes it's a very common issue. Look in the New gen FAQ sticky at the top of the page and the first link in that thread is all about replacing bulbs.

Ok, that should rule out water or leak sealer goop settling at the bottom of the tire when stopped and throwing off the balance as you accelerate. How long has the shake been going on? Does it change depending on temperature at all, or is wheel speed the only factor? You just had the axles replaced, did you make sure both are completely seated into the differential housing? If you pull out on the inner cv joint does it slide out of the diff any? Have you ever had any of the engine mounts replaced?

The legacy outback wagons run 205/70/15 tires. I would imagine they have room for more because of the lifted suspension. I wonder if you could make a set of outback struts work on your older wagon? :-p

How old are your tires? Do any of them have a slow leak? (requiring air to be added on a regular basis) Or have you ever used Fix a Flat or silimilar leak sealer in any of them?

I hadn't realized before that the thermostat opening temp was only 170° for this car. My castoff as normal was based on experience with cars that use 190 - 195° ranger thermostats. Knowing this now I don't think I can say that being consistently 30-40° above thermostat opening temp is normal. That said, I think your next step should be to accurately record the temperature of the coolant going into and leaving the engine. An infrared temp gun can be useful for that, but the most accurate way is to use an analog thermometer exposed directly to the coolant.

The service manual site looks interesting. If you choose to go that route, just download everything you possibly can that pertains to your model year and save it on your computer, or even print it if you have to. $35 for 72 hours of access is kind of a ripoff IMO, but the information contained in the manual is well worth the cost should you ever need it. Piston slap is really nothing to worry about. There are many GM engines that do that for a hundred thousand miles or more with no ill effects. GM issued TSBs about that for multiple vehicles with their 60° family of V6 engines back in the 90's saying to just ignore it because rebuilt or even replacement engines will start doing it again in 25k miles anyway.

The scrap yard I go to charges $5 for an O2 sensor. Finding one on a Subaru isn't easy though because they cut off most of the catalytic converters, and the sensor is mounted on the converter. Might not hurt to take a gander through a pick-n-pull in your area and see if you can find one.