Fairtax4me

That's a commonly used size on Subarus. Some people say they rub a little, others say they don't.

Usually bad valve stem seals. When coasting there is high vacuum build in the intake manifold, but little air flow because the throttle plate is closed. The vacuum pulls oil past the valve stem seals and it just trickles down the stem but then gets pulled back UP into the intake manifold. When you open the throttle plate to begin accelerating again, then there is a large flow of air into the manifold , which pulls the oil down into the cylinders and it burns off with the combustion of the A/F mixture. How much smoke you get depends on how long you coast.

Man you got it all backwards! You're supposed to go to Florida for the winter, New York for the summer! You should vacuum it and charge it up. Even if you don't use it, you don't want air in the system all winter because the moisture in the air can corrode parts inside.

Push it forward for high beams and it will click into position. When its on high, pull back and it will click into the center position for low beam.

Your hill holder cable may be too loose. The spring on the hill holder mechanism pulls the release bearing away from the pressure plate so it doesn't constant spin, or rattle around. If it doesn't have the hill holder, you may need a return spring for the release lever.

Did you clean the threads on the bolts? Did you chase the threads in the block?

Dunno how I missed this thread when it was orginally posted, but I would have said driveshaft/ u-joint. Check the u joints for play. Pull the driveshaft off and check if any have locked up.

Glad to hear its fixed. So bulb missing = MIL status On. Somewhere in the FSM there are diagnostics for the MIL lamp circuit.

Were you in the final step of the torque sequence? If you were only to the first 90°, you can probably re-use it since you havent yet reached the final crush load on the gasket at that point. If you were doing the final torque, the gasket isn't going to seal properly.

Are you Checking MIL status with the engine running? Normally the MIL wil be On with key On engine off, and the scanner may display "MIL On" because of that. With Engine running, MIL status should be Off.

The screws should crack loose by hand with the correct sized screwdriver and a good whack on the end with a hammer while twisting. I use an impact screwdriver on those and they pop loose pretty easy. An electric impact driver may be able to pop them loose without stripping the head. Something in the latch has jammed or broken, probably something dealing with the connection between the lock mechanism and the release lever on the latch. Some fiddling with the lock and release lever on the latch may get it back to working. The latch mechanism isn't that hard to replace though, and can usually be bought fairly cheap from a junkyard.

Fel-pro gaskets have the Fuji Heavy Industries check logo on them. Same gasket as OEM. Composite gaskets are the preferred gasket for this engine. They conform well to minor imperfections in the head and block. Don't know anything about any special repair gasket. I've always used the plain OE replacement and never had any problem.

I normally chuck the lap tool into a drill on low speed. You just pull back on the drill to lift the valve off the seat every few seconds and that draws the grind compound back under the cutting surface. There is a specified width for the contact area of the valve. Too wide, the valve may not seal properly, and it can cause carbon buildup on the seat or the valve which will cause it to not close all the way. Too narrow and the valve can't cool properly, which can cause it to burn.

Yeah that seems kind of odd. Possible someone put the wrong fluid in at some point and it's just been downhill from there. Not a bad price for a trans. Gonna take the old one apart and see what's in there?

I'd take it to another shop and get a second opinion before dropping money on a trans. Have you checked thefont diff fluid? How does the front diff fluid look? Drive the car a few minutes and drain the diff fluid into a clean bucket or catch pan and look for sparkly bits in the fluid.

The conditioner was a cover-up fix for the leaking head gasket problems Subaru had in the late 90s - mid 00s. You've replaced the head gaskets, the newer gaskets designs cure the condition that caused them to leak, so conditioner is not required. If you want to run it as a cheap insurance policy, you can, but if the conditioner has been added to the system in the past, there will already be buildup in the radiator and the heater core, and those can possibly get clogged by adding more.

There's a Yaw/roll sensor under the center console IIRC. That may be what this code refers to, but I'm not positive of that. If the lamp works, but isn't normally lit, and the ABS system works normally, I wouldn't worry about it.

Rear mounts don't spin, as said above. There should be an arrow or marking on the top pointing out. If you need to, you can mount the top hat in the car, run a long screwdriver or 12" long 3/8" socket extension through the lower bolt holes and use that to twist the strut body in the direction you need for it to line up. I've only ever had to move them maybe 10°, not sure how well that might work if you really need them to move 1/4 turn.

It'll fit, But I agree with Emily, make sure it's not a linkage problem first. Worn bushings or something broken or cracked.

Actuator is probably dead. Usualy they make a funny noise like finding gears, but the motor inside it could have died. I've replaced one on my 95, same one actually, but it was two yeas ago. I don't remember it being particularly difficult. Take the door panel off, fiddle wih the little clips to pull the lock rods off of it and it unbolts/unscrews from some kind of bracket. Guarantee it was easier than the one I did in a Tauus last week.

If the engine is cold you won't see any flow through the radiator because the thermostat is closed. When does it overheat? Sitting in traffic? Driving on the highway? Stop and go?

High friction detected? Maybe it got some dust in it somehow? Is the ABS light on? Might just be a code that pops up when certain tests are performed?

The oil leak is from the valve cover gasket. Coolant loss could be due to a bad head gasket, but that's manageable at least for a while. Just be sure to check the coolant frequently and add when necessary. The valve cover gaskets need to be replaced ASAP.

Its easy. Aluminum is soft, and the tap wont be taking all that much material out anyway.

I last did this a couple years ago by tapping the transmission hole to M12x1.75 and got a bolt from lowes about 1.5" long. Had to slightly enlarge the hole in the starter, but it worked great. If you have a helicoil kit you can helicoil the hole in the trans for an M10x1.5 bolt. I've seen people cut the head off an M10 bolt, stick it in the hole with JB weld and let it dry, then use a nut and flat washer. Just about anything will work just to hold the starter as long as the upper bolt is there. It doesn't have to be super he-man strong.