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Last one I dealt with did the same thing that happened to you. rounded the nut. And I ended up squeezing it so hard with vicegrips I squashed what was left and broke it so there wasn't anything to grab onto anymore... So I cut the pipe in half. Then I slid a big nut over the pipe and welded it to the part that was stuck in the intake. Then I could also use a box end wrench on it, finally that got it loose. Same deal for the head end. Fortunately I had a spare EGR tube laying around that I actually managed in getting off without destroying, but otherwise I'd just have welded the tube back together and called it good.

I did an engine swap and forgot one of the engine connectors once... It ran, amazingly. But terribly and threw about 11 codes. That's why I said clear codes, and see what comes back. If it's a wiring problem where the computer just doesn't see the sensors, the codes will come right back. Not having the MAF plugged in won't throw 11 codes all at once, it'll take some driving to upset the computer into throwing codes for everything.

Clear the codes, and see what comes back immediately. With that many, some will probably immediately come back. But I'd start checking connectors... 11 censors didn't all die at the same time, you have a wiring problem. Pull the engine harness connectors, check to see if they're corroded, have crap in them, etc. Clean them up. Check the computer connector. I've had a problem that I tracked down finally to a loose computer connector. And just check all the engine wiring, something has come loose that's causing massive mayhem.

So I answered my own question. Got the sucker out. Amazingly, not rusted in there at all! I let it soak a few hours. Then the bolts came out, no battle. I used a chizel to span the collars, then just hammered it right off. I was amazed at how easy it was... Anyway, the joint is very bad, one is really sticky, the other is completely loose. You have a PM incoming, thank you! Sorry if the message sent twice, I'm having weird issues with the forum...

Do I have to drop the crossmember any to get it out? Or can I slide the joint up on one end, then slide it off?

Is it swappable with any EJ subarus? EA stuff here is pretty hard to find, and usually all rusted out when I do find it.

Anybody? Please? Rally drive type stuff is coming up and I need my car working!

The forester XT 5speed is 4.44.

You can run the car till it's way below resting on the peg... then you can sputter along for another 5 miles to the gas station. I think dealers and shops that know subarus tell you to take it in under 1/4 tank. I did mine at just below 1/4 tank and was fine, I definitely would NOT remove the filler with a full tank.

At first I thought going 110mph is a loyale. holy shift that's scary... Then I noticed it didn't have kms on the inside, and it said km in big white letters. haha. It's looking good! I like blue and red... mine is red with some blue parts. hah

Sorry if this has been covered before, I couldn't really find exactly what I was looking for. I don't drive my 89 GL very often, maybe once every week or two. Yesterday I took it out for a drive for the first time in over a week and a half. Nothing was wrong with it then. But now, the steering wheel sticks every half turn, pretty bad. It won't turn back by itself after going around a corner, I almost have to force it around. It got better with some driving, but it's still there. Power steering fluid is a fine level/colour, the pump turns freely, no bearing noise, no play in the pully, no leaking, etc. The steering rack boots aren't torn and the tie rod ends are nice and tight. All I can think is it has something to do with the linkage/u-joint. Or maybe the struts binding when turning?? It does it when not moving too, so I don't think it could be an axle.... But I'd like some input before I go throwing parts at it. Thanks much.

What's the pump for? Are you making it amphibious?

Because the tribeca weighs an effing ton. If you put that engine in an old impreza I bet it would cream a stock WRX. Same with the svx, not a terribly fast car. But put that motor in an old impreza and it pulls on stock WRXs

It's amazing what a BFH can accomplish

Anyone with any helpful information??

The way I check is if there is less distance from the tranny bell housing to the ears than there is from the engine bell housing to the mounting part of the flex plate, it's seated.

I know all about cheap axles. But that's not my question...

Are you pushing for the XT because you'd rather have that in 5 years when she's done with it than the tribeca? Unless you're looking to replace a lot of stuff, buying any turbo car with over 90k you're looking at replacing stuff. Turbo is staring to get old, etc, etc. NA stuff does a lot better with higher mileage. But the tribeca is ugly as hell...

I don't usually call bull************. But, putting on the filter too tight will not cause high oil pressure. As zacyork said it just makes it a pain to get off.. Putting it on too loose will cause it to fall off. And that causes low oil pressure...

You can't judge high or low oil pressure from the stock gauge. If that's what you get your readings from, you have no grounds to state you have an oil pressure problem. My oil pressure gauge always reads something, and moves when I rev the enigne. That's about all I use it for. If it drops to zero I'll be worried, but otherwise they're useless for any accurate readings. It's really doubtful you have high oil pressure anyway, if the engine runs well and doesn't make any bad noises it's probably fine..

Wrenching up here definitely takes a different kind of finesse than down south... When I as working in a shop almost every car I worked on had some love from a torch due to rusty stuck stuff.

What exactly are you saying? Are you really saying you should leave the oil filter loose so it leaks

Found out there are at least three different types of male rear axles... Grumble grumble

So I've always been under the incorrect impression that all male subaru rear axles are the same. That leaves me with some questions. I'm doing a MT swap in my legacy, and before I rip stuff apart I want to make sure everything fits. And this is what I've come up against... I currently have two different 4.11 diffs, and a set of spare rear axles (from a 99 obw, but should be the same as my 98 GT) One diff is from a 2002 RS 5mt, the other one, I have no idea. It has fins on the back cover, and the drain bolt's have a 17mm head instead of the 1/2" drive. But I know it's a 4.11 because I counted teeth. Here's the problem. Diff #1: When I put the axle into the RS diff it goes all the way in and clicks into place. But when I spin the axle it doesn't turn the gears, it sounds like the splines are stripped out. It just makes a slight grinding noise, and that's it. Just like they're barely touching, but don't match up. I know nothing is wrong with the axles or that diff. Diff #2: This is the diff I don't know anything about. I got a transmission and this diff for $150 and was told it was all good... anyway. The axle doesn't even go all the way in. The part of the shaft with the diagonal groves (see pic) comes up short against the bearing. When I look from the inside (cover off) I can clearly see that the shaft is blatantly too big to fit. (that's what she said ) So from this I can assume there are at least three different types of axles/diffs Can someone who knows about what's going on here enlighten me on what to look for so I can get a matching diff/axle setup. And just in general because I had no idea there were so many differences! Thanks

And not to say there's a convenient time for that to happen... but it happened to me 4 hours from home. Which just added insult to injury. After that experience I learned about this thing called preventative maintenance. It's a good thing to participate in!