987687

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=121996

If you were in a bind to get it fixed right quick you could get those crappy boots that don't need to axle to come off to replace. They have a seam that glues together and you just put it around the axle... On my last legacy I had a completely torn outer boot. I drove 20k miles on it all winter. Through mud puddles, salty roads, stuffed it in snow banks. And that axle never made a peep. You'll be fine for a few days...

Yes, it was swapped from a FWD auto to 4wd dual range a few years ago. It should come apart.

Carnage I'm currently in search of a new one...

There's something weird with that rim... It looks like the lip is broken off on the bottom back by the ground.

Thanks for catching that!! Sorry!! I forgot we were talking OBD1 stuff here. *hides under a rock*

ECU is under the pass side carpet. Where your feet would rest on the uphill slant.

I'm glad mine was converted from an automatic. I don't have that silly system..

I went out to get muddy and my subframe broke epic sad face

Hide it somewhere. haha.

Are you sure it doesn't have to do with the parking brake? I've had issues with mine sticking, then I greased up the mechanism at the wheel and it's fine.

Looks like a good time!

The haynes has some mis-information on engine stuff. Important engine stuff. Torque specs, sequences, etc. I use the FSM because that way I know it'll be done right. My only use of the haynes is for my GL because that is a lot if different cars mashed together, and it covers most of them in one book...

That's the thing, of course I'd like to replace it. But as you said, nothing up here is in good shape. The newest one loyale 94, that's 17 years old. It's gonna be rusty too. I'd have to get one from out west, and I don't want to know what shipping is on that Maybe I'll just rip the thing out (looks pretty easy, just four bolts then pull the suspension stuff off). Then see if I can resurrect/recreate the right side, maybe weld support on the left side as well so it doesn't happen on that side. It's not that I can't weld it, I have the equipment and knowhow, I'd just rather replace it. hmm

Are you checking when the engine is running?

The torque converter bolts cannot be accessed through the starter hole. You have to get them through the access hole on the passenger side of the engine bell housing. It's sort of under the intake manifold, real pain in the butt. But not horrible, there's only 4 of them. The first one will take you a while to figure out, but after a few engine pulls on an auto I can get them all out in <15 mins.

So the right end of my rear sub-frame rusted off. Now the trailing arm (or whatever it's called that has the wheel bearing in it) is sort of at a strange angle and the strut rubbed a hole into the trunk... I was wheeling and thought WTF is that noise. Anyway... Is it worth taking it out to weld back together? The rest is in alright shape. My problem is that no junk yard in Maine has a loyale, and if it did it would probably have the same problem. I can't really weld the stupid thing in car because it's right next to the fuel lines, I don't want to turn into a fireball. What's the best course of action for my poor GL? It has to be back to life in time for the local dirt rally group drive, and be reliable transportation while I swap a 5mt into my legacy...

Next time I pull the engine out of my stupid car maybe I'll take pictures of it... It's been twice already, but there isn't much to really show. You just unbolt everything and it comes out. But you were asking about tranny... right? I think I'm going to take pics of that when I drop my auto to swap it for a stick.

I couldn't get the drain plugs out of the rear diff with my breaker bar... I couldn't exert enough force. I eventually used the spare tire jack to push the breaker bar up. That eventually cracked them loose. I found that I could squeeze about 1/3 of a bottle into the top hole before I couldn't tip it high enough to get any more out. This is fine as long as you do the diff before the transmission. Then just put the partial bottles in the tranny. funnel makes it easier, but you don't HAVE to have one to fill the tranny. Gear oil bottles have the little spout so you can get it in there.

I'm actually running a size small on my GT because I got the tires for $20 and I can mount/balance for free... Thanks for the diff ratio info! Exactly what I wanted to hear, and I like the confirmation that the outback is also 4.44. I was 99.9% sure on that, but it was an added little non-question question Selling someone a diff and don't want to screw 'em! I have some fun swappyness in store for this car

I'm gonna put a dual filament bulb in there and just plain ditch the blinkers when I do a front bumper build.

GL blinkers are worse... They're so hidden in the front bumper there's absolutely no way you could see it from the side. I always think about that when I'm turning...

I just want confirmation that the diff ratio on a 98 legacy GT auto is 4.44. I know on the outback it is, and I think the outback and GT get the same tranny stuff both auto and manual... just need a confirmation.

The only accessory belt idler on your car is on the AC belt. The alt moves up and down to tension the belt for the alt and the PS pump.

The cams have to come out anyway to get the head off. So just do a very thorough inspection of all the lobes and bearing surfaces.