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I have a home built moped type thing comprising of a mountain bike and a two-stroke engine. It goes about 40. Since I live in the boonies and speed limits are all around 45 it doesn't actually take too much longer to get around. Probably add 25% amount of time. If it wants to run properly that day...

When it gets worse it'll do it stopped in neutral too... Unless it's a main bearing on the output shaft, but that's sorta unlikely.

It's not that bad unless it's stuck on. Getting it back on isn't a big deal, a few extensions and a wobbly make it wicked easy. When I used to work at a shop one guy had sockets with a built in wobbly, those made it REALLY easy. But even the normal u-joint type ones aren't bad. I just did this like half an hour ago... And now I know I have the old style tensioner. So I'll order up a kit and install it when it's warmer out and I can ride around on my moped.

TC bolts are easy if you remove the intake manifold first! If not I just get them from the bottom with an extension and a wobbly, it's so much easier than trying to get under the intake to get them out. And if you drop one doing it from the bottom you're not screwed. And yea, the bottom nut on the driver's side sucks. It's not so bad on the 5speed, but on the auto the cooler lines and dip stick tube piss me off.

When the car is stopped with the transmission in neutral, foot off the clutch. Does it make the offending sound? It sounds kind of like putting an egg beater in a box of rocks and putting it on low speed. Among many of its problems, my old dual range did that.

True, good point. Even with the farking bottom AT cooler hose, it's probably easier to pull the rad...

You shouldn't use 4wd unless you're on gravel, dirt, mud, snow, sand, ice, etc anyway. Although, if you have nicely matched tires you can use it in heavy rain on the highway. And it improves handling.

It comes with the seals too? Cool! Unfortunately the guy I'm getting the engine from took a while to get back to me and get a date for me to pick it up. I'm down to the wire and have no time to replace anything on it, so I'll have to do it all in car later. Not really a huge deal. I think with the rad fans off there's more than enough clearance.

Hmm, well. If you say it's good, I'll take your word for it. And I think my new engine is gonna have the old style. I'm going to order the belt when I get it just to be sure I get the right thing, it should run for a while with whatever is on there now. I'm getting the engine thursday night. Leaving for a weekend road trip friday morning. So that gives me enough time to get it in the car and ready to go. But not to screw around with much else.

I've read some bad stories about the Mizumo kits. I don't care that the engine in non-interference, I don't like getting stuck somewhere, and having to worry about carrying spare parts and tools to swap a belt on the side of the road. I now know the engine I'm getting is a 94, so that probably has the old style tensioner. Never personally dealt with that, but it looks pretty obvious how it works.

Even if the pugs are different... I've driven about 4000 miles on the highway with mine. At highway speeds 75-80. And with properly balanced tires they do not vibrate at all.

A few years ago I got wheels from some late 80's chevy product because they had good snow tires on them. I said 'what the hell' and tried them... they bolted right on and worked great. I don't know anything about GM products, but that's something to look into as well.

The twin turbo setup doesn't work on left hand drive cars because the manifold setup hit's the steering linkage. There's no advantage to the TT setup anyway, it just creates more headache.

Bought a 94 ej22, picking it up later this week. Hopefully an end to having engine issues with my LGT....

If you're having a hard time shifting into all gears, make sure that your clutch is disengaging all the way. It sounds like your clutch might be dragging a bit. At a complete stop. If you push in the clutch and leave it in for a while to let the tranny slow down. Then slowly shift into reverse, does it grind at all? Where in the pedal throw does your clutch engage? If it's engaging right off the floor, you probably have an adjustment issue. But if your transmission is getting tired, they aren't hard to find. I bought a 5speed, rear end, and driveshaft with 100k miles for $150.

Other than bell housing it should work just fine. The 99 is better though. The 99 2.5D uses a phase2 block. So it has the upgraded bearings and the thrust bearing moved to 5. It's a much better bottom end. But the earlier ones will work fine.

The forester is boxier and has more room than the outback. If the head gasket is done PROPERLY it should never fail again. Emphasis on done properly. When the head gasket fails a second time it means an idiot did it the first time. You actually pulled a timing cover off to look at the timing belt? Or by TB did you mean something else... They don't usually look worn until they're really bad. What happens in the timing belt idlers or waterpump fail. There's no way to check these without taking the timing belt off, at which point. Just replace it.

Have you checked the wiring from the alternator to the battery? Put one probe of the meter on the power out post on the alt. and the other on the positive of the battery. See how much voltage drop you're getting. How many volts at the battery when the engine is idling, and at cruising RPM? If the alternator and battery are both fine, but still not charging correctly. You have a wiring issue.

If the battery is fine for a few days after you charge it, then acts up again. It sounds like the alternator isn't charging the battery properly.

Wow, that's a really bizarre failure. Good for you having tools with you at all times! I've had a lot of good road side repairs on my GL.

I've heard people run the starter with just the top bolt, and it does fine.

Driving my Legacy to frisbee, started to hear an awful noise. So I pulled over... The cogged timing belt idler is ************tin itself. So I drove it home... swapped it out with another iffy one, and was on my way. I'm glad it wasn't the rod knock getting worse, I really hate that engine... hah.

It'll read a couple percent slow. You can get a conversion box, but they're a bit spendy.

Since you're getting the rear end with it, it doesn't matter what engine it originally had. BUT, it would be more desirable for you if it was a GT model, because then it would have 4.11 final drive. Since you're auto is a 4.11 that means your speedometer would read correctly. If the 5speed you're getting is a 3.90 your speedo will be off.

The last reported mileage was 241,395 kilometers, and it's in Quebec. No accidents or anything like that.