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You have to replace all 4 tires, you have a viscus center differential (manual) or rear transfer clutch parks (automatic). If you have considerably different tire sizes you'll cause excessive wear and heat in these parts and ruin the transmission. The subaru spec is something like no more than 1/4" CIRCUMFERENCE difference between tires.

When it's overheating, does your heater work? First thing I do when a car overheats is turn the heater on full blast to see if that'll bring the temp down. If the heater won't work, you have bigger problems... But I'd start by checking the coolant and topping up as necessary.

ahahahahaha

Well, I only have room to park one car at my apartment for school, so the subaru is parked next to my rusted out lifted GL until winter time... I just did new balljoints, rack boots, a clutch, and something else I forget. Ran out of time to mess with the clutch pedal. This will be revived when they start putting salt on the roads and I stop driving the Mercedes...

I did, however that's a good point. I'll try to get the grease worked in between the spring and the metal, not just randomly spraying it in there... I used white lithium grease in the hopes it wouldn't drip on my feet....

Cable, I was worried the solution was gonna be "take apart the pedal box"...

Yea, heated option is just coils under the wipers. If you have a heated windshield I think the button is by the parking brake. You should have two heated seat switches and either two coin trays, or one coin tray and a heated windshield switch. If you don't have heated seats, you don't have heated windshield, either. The wires are up under the dash, you can't see them unless the windshield is out (or you remove the dash...) If you don't wanna pay the extra money for a heated one (waste of money) just get a normal windshield.

I can't really find any good information about this. 98 legacy has a really annoyingly squeaky clutch pedal, I can't see anywhere obvious to grease the thing. I sprayed some lube at it, but nothing. It's definitely the pedal, not the clutch or cable or transmission or anything like that.

Definitely the dark, it matches the bottom two tone and looks really good.

If the bolts are m12x1,25 you can probably use bolts off an EJ car, because that's the size they use. Just measure the length of one you have and make sure EJ ones are the correct length.

Just cut it off to the right length.

The giggle pin is what goes off when you tickle your subaru just right. The jiggle pin is the little rattly pin thingy in the thermostat that helps bleed air out of the system.

Pull the spark plugs, if some of them are way cleaner than others, you probably have an internal headgasket leak. If all the spark plug look the same I wouldn't assume internal leak right off the bat. Other common symptom of a headgasket issue is the radiator overflow tank fills all the way up and eventually overflows. Same thing I tell anyone who has a leak they can't find. Clean the entire engine really well, get all the grime off the bottom, etc. Then you'll have a flying chance at finding the leak. You can even add UV dye to the coolant if you wish.

The hub stripping out would cause it not to move. The wheel bolts to the hub, the rotor is bolted to the hub as well. Only banging I can think of is either loose bolts like Dave said, or you may have lost one of the bolts on your caliper bracket causing it to flap around when you hit the brakes. If you can't see things in the dark you may want to buy a .... flashlight!

I don't know about the code alarm system, but with the 99+ alpine alarm system you can't program remotes unless the key is in the ignition. So if that's unplugged, it won't program. Just something to keep in mind if you ever try to program a new keyfob. If you don't have the miserable code alarm system, disregard...

Driving a dump truck at work is how I make my crappy subaru feel like a race car

The camshaft and crankshaft sensor are the same part, sound like you found the cam sensor, the crank sensor is under the alternator right next to the timing cover. It's brown with a two wire connector, not to be confused with the oil pressure sensor which has a one wire connector.

Fat Cat Denial of Service? Best name ever. Your car should have the 3at. If you do an ej swap, throw a manual in there at the same time.

Oil a quart low isn't extreme, and shouldn't hurt anything. If the belt seems loose, pull the covers and check the timing. You don't want to bend the valves again...

Curb weight means all fluids topped up, no driver. GVWR is gross vehicle weight rating, it's the curb weight plus a full load of passengers, cargo, etc. My Mercedes weighs in somewhere around 3600lbs makes my brighton feel light.

I honestly don't know a whole lot about the obd1 subarus. I would check the throttle position sensor (TPS) with an analogue volt meter, though. As you open and close the throttle, the resistance should change with a smooth sweep, not a jerking motion of the needle. Think of an old scratchy volume knob on a radio. That's what can happen when they wear out. It's definitely something that can cause jerkyness at low throttle application. Other than that, the usual suspect things that cause a car not to run well. Check/replace plugs and wires, do a compression test.... Drive with a heavier foot. I'll let someone who knows more about how these work chime in.

That's the switch that makes the dinger ding when the key is in the ignition. What you're looking for is on the bottom, I seem to recall. It looks like you broke the plastic off.. That really isn't necessary, there are two screws on the bottom that remove the plastics. Fortunately my 2nd gen is a stick, otherwise I'd go take a pic for you.

That's the evap canister, it's full of charcoal. Instead of venting to atmosphere, the fuel tank vents into that when the car in shut off. It catches fuel vapors and the engine sucks them in on startup. Unless the solenoid going between that and the intake manifold is stuck open or one of the vacuum lines is broken, that's likely not the cause of your problem.

It's been a while, but I had a similar issue with a 98 automatic subaru I had years ago. If you take the steering column plastics off there's a solenoid bolted to the ignition tumbler, removing that will let you turn the key all the way off whenever you want. I think it's on the bottom, but I can't remember exactly, the ignition is a pretty small part so it should be easy to spot. It's a big tumor with two wires. The top of the tumbler has two black wires, too, but those go to the flap that makes it beep when your key is in the ignition. What you're looking for is toward the bottom.

Why don't you hook it up how it's supposed to be hooked up?