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Yea, my GL was doing that when I parked it for rust. One of the little throttle body cooler lines. I'm sure when I get another one and drag that out for driveline parts I'll forget about it....

Yep, new engine time. Fortunately it's a pretty easy engine swap on the subaru.

Does the AT TEMP light ever flash? If not, it probably isn't a transmission issue. It sounds like the throttle position sensor (TPS) is intermittent. If that fails, it'll cause funny shifting. When it died on my car, it caused really early shifting, slammed through the gears and wouldn't downshift. However, unless you figure out what code the CEL is on for, all anyone can do is guess. You need to have the code read, it'll point you in the right direction.

I could swear I had a picture of the repair on this one, but I guess not. Anyway, here's a pretty typical case. With the transmission in the car, you can reach the pins from the bottom, you may have to remove the exhaust if it's on the passenger side. This was a transmission someone bought at a scrap yard and needed the axles out of:

You aren't boned, I used to work in a shop and people brought cars in like this more often than you'd think. If you don't care about full destruction of the axle cup you can get it out. Take an angle grinder and cut away the axle, pin, and tool right down to the tranny stub. Be really careful not to cut into the tranny stub... In my experience, when you grind both sides all the way down the broken off tool and roll pin come out easily with another (not broken) punch. The roll pin size is actually 6mm, not 3/16". A 3/16" punch usually works, but if the roll pin is stuck, the punch will actually go inside the roll pin and break off. You might be able to punch it out the other direction with the proper punch... Usually not, though. When there's a broken off punch in the pin it's so tight nothing besides cutting it out works.

Why would you need an alignment after doing an axle? If you do it by pulling the strut, just mark the position of the camber bolt.

Honestly, it sounds like you have your heart set on fixing the car. If it has ZERO rust and otherwise in good condition, go ahead and have it fixed. If you have any rust on the car, though, probably not worth dumping a huge pile of money into mechanicals. The rear subframes on those cars have really bad rust issues and are probably really expensive to have replaced. I've done a few of them and they kinda suck.

I wouldn't change just one section, otherwise you may throw off the balance of the shaft and have a high speed vibration. Same deal if you take it apart to rebuild it, make sure to mark how it was originally. Same deal when you take the u-joints out, make sure to get the flanges back in the original orientation.

It has to be from an outback, a legacy of the same body style has a different center bearing mount. As long as you haven't damaged the ears on the driveshaft where the u-joints go, you can rebuild it. http://rockforddriveline.com/ sells the u-joints.

A bad CV can cause a vibration at idle, does it do the same thing in reverse? If the vibration is different you probably have a CV issue. Especially if the engine runs smooth in park/neutral. These transmissions all tend to shift hard from 1st to 2nd at low throttle, even when the speed sensors work correctly (there are two of them). Make sure the transmission doesn't slip from 2nd to 3rd. Also take it to a paved parking lot and do some full lock low speed turns in both directions to make sure the center transfer clutches aren't binding. If it is binding, it'll feel like a 4x4 truck in 4wd. If the vss code is p0500, this may be the casue: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/115677-p0500-repair/ Although the aluminum two-wire speed sensors tend to fail because the square drive thingy internal to them wears out.

Oversized bearings are for a damaged crank... If the rod journals get chewed up and need to be machined down to achieve a nice shiny finish, oversized bearings are required. Until you take the engine apart you don't know the extent of damage and thus can't know which size bearings you're going to need.

If you have already filled the cooling system, remove the radiator fans. You'll have plenty of access.

I was gonna post just that ^^^^^ You can swap the computer from the other car... HOWEVER, make sure they use the same style O2 sensor. I did this from an 00 outback into an 02 forester (both manual, but weird optioning makes the forester have an auto-style engine setup). The outback used the older style O2, forester used the newer style O2. Changing the computer actually screwed the sensor up, net result was buying a new sensor and swapping the cam and crank gears. I'd just put the proper cam/crank gears on it.

The 3.9 diff in the legacy SS has different axles on both sides for the LSD drive or something... I think the side difference is because of the part that goes through the seal, it has some spirals cut into the surface I think for keeping oil from getting out. You can see what I mean in the uppen axle in this pic: http://i.imgur.com/mqb0ysx.jpg

Looks like a manual based on the clutch master cylinder.

I don't think of 05 as old.... heh. Anyway, I made the mistake of doing a timing job without replacing the crank and cam seals on my car. About a year later after a slight oil leak from the timing cover, the front main seal had a catastrophic failure. I caught it because it was leaking SO much oil it was smoking off the exhaust and leaving a smoke screen behind me, when I stopped there was oil dripping off the rear bumper. The other thing about leaks in the timing cover is that oil is bad for the timing belt, it will soften the belt and significantly shorten its life.

First step is to get all the broken pieces out, what's under the hex head? If it's metal, you might have luck with one of those extractor sockets you hammer on and it grips the broken whatever to pull it out. You might have to search around a while to find a deep one, though.

I have no idea what car you have, but up till like 04ish there's a wire coming out of the steering column with a two pin plug. That's the one that goes to the flappy switch when you put the key in the ignition. Unplugging that will make the car "think" the key is always out. The only downside to that is you won't be able to program an alpine alarm system remote because the control module requires the key be in the ignition to enter programming mode.

It's part number 5 in that diagram, it's the same part on DOHC or SOHC. It's on the block, has nothing to do with the heads. It's just held on with those 3 bolts.

Oil isn't coming out of the water pump, that's for certain. Fortunately there aren't many places the ea81 can really leak oil from. That said, there's only one way you're going to find the leak. Get some cans of gunk or other engine cleaner and give it a really good cleaning. When there's no oil left on the engine, top it up and start it. With an oil leak that big it should be really obvious where it's pissing out. Also congrats on your wife knowing what an oil pressure gauge is... had this happened to my car I think she'd have driven it past the point of "makes funny noises", deep into "parts falling onto ground"...

You don't want an oiled air filter on a car with a MAF, you'll gum up the hotwire and it won't work properly. The stock filter actually sucks outside air, whereas that will suck hot air from the engine bay. Not an upgrade at all...

I've had those strip out before, local machine shop heli-coils them for me for like $10.

For 90-94 you have to swap your original intake manifold and crank/cam sensors to the new engine, as well. If you want a subaru with a turbo, buy one that already has a turbo. If you want a car that works, just do a stock replacement.

I've had three things cause problems like that in the past. A dirty IACV, improperly adjusted TPS, and a dirty or failing MAF. The symptoms usually boiled down to weird things like running fine for a few days then idling really wonky, or having no power over 80% throttle, or misfiring on one cylinder even though nothing was wrong with that cylinder and it would run fine after a reset... Sometimes it's hard to diagnose because the sensor isn't far enough out of range to actually throw a code, it just screws with the auto learned tune.

Yea, I've used 0.035" aviation lockwire as well. I'm always afraid it'll bite into the boot, though.