samo

That E-bay one looks a bit different than the one I had on my old wagon... but then again, that pic might not be of the exact MAF adaptor. If it's for a Sentra GA16DE, it'll work on our MAFs. Would people be interested if I could get a whole mess of these? I have some close connections in the Nissan community, and I might be able to snag some for cheap.

I like that A LOT. I've really been thinking about doing something like that on the back of my rig... now you've REALLY got me thinking . Great work.

I run 185/70/14 on mine with only minor rubbing from the rear on bumps when the car is loaded. I wouldn't go any larger if you're not lifted.

If it's for an EA82, the MAF adaptor from a 1991-1999 Nissan Sentra with the 1.6l engine (GA16DE) will bolt right up. You can get these at any rice/performance shop or on Ebay. A cheap one is $5, a nice aluminum one will run $30-$50.

The Yakima rack I'm using mounts to the rain gutters. Great rack, strong as all hell.

Sounds like your alternator to me.

Ahh, thank you sir. I will go down and check on it later this morning. Hope it's something as simple as that!

That is what you said, I was just clarifying it in case someone doesn't know exactly how a relay works, that's why I included the terminal numbers

So ever since I got my '93, I've noticed a semi-loud "clunk" coming from the right front wheel area after a hard right turn. It has to be a very hard right, and it only happens after I start turning the wheel back to center, and only when I'm moving forward. The sound is like "tonk!" Sounds like something might be binding up, or snapping back into place, or someting. Doesn't seem to be affecting the driveability of the car, but then again, it's a not sweet sound. Any ideas?

Here's the best way, IMO. Hook a lead from your battery with an inline fuse or circuit breaker to the 30 terminal on the relay. Use a test probe or multimeter or wiring diagram to find the highbeam wire on one of your headlights. Use a T-tap or somehow splice it into the 86 terminal on the relay. The 85 terminal gets grounded, and the 87 goes to both of your fogs, wired in parallel. Ground the fogs, and you're done. Make sure the fuse or circuit breaker you're using is only slightly higher amperage tolerance than the fogs you're using.

Yep. The alloys I use have the weird little washer thingie. About 20,000 miles on them, no problems.

Damn, too bad you're not willing to shop as far as Seattle. I've got a decent '92 Loyale that needs a good home. She needs a radiator and back brakes, but other than that, she's a champ, and I'd let her go for quite a bit less than $1000.

Sorry to hear about your Soob being taken. Mine was "borrowed" a few weeks ago. For a killswitch, I just interupted the clutch interlock circuit. Apparently this only works on EA82s, though, so you EA81 and earlier guys will have to interupt the fuel pump or starter circuits.

Personally, I'd fiberglass the insides of those pockets before I mounted a sub in them. You have much the same idea I do, although I will be cutting out one of those pockets and mounting a box inside of it. That way, the box is tuned correctly and, since I will be covering it in grey vinyl, it will look relatively factory and like it belongs there.

Yokohamas are awesome. I run they're K2 F720 snow rally tires and I love them. Their street tires are killer too.

Yes, I definately agree about Panasonic. If you're looking for good bang for the buck, their headunits are great. They don't offer quite as many features as some of their competitors, but for a basic "I play CDs" CD player, they're great, and they're built tough. However, if you're interested in satellite radio, I recommend you stay away from Panasonic, as they seem to have some issues with their Sirius connection. Other than that, they're good units for the entry-level to mid-range market. Never been a huge fan of Memphis myself, but I know many, many people who rave about their gear. Definately give them a listen! To compare with Scoobywagon's system, the system I'm building consists of an Eclipse CD3434 headunit, Diamond Audio M6 components, an Eclipse 87121 subwoofer, all powered by an Xtant X603 amplifier (150x2 + 300x1). I still need to find a cap that I'm in love with, and I may, just for the hell of it, run an oldschool Audiocontrol EQL .

True, it is definately all about preference. While I can't stand to listen to a cheap set of speakers, they may sound like gold to another person, especially if they're not looking for all-out performance. It is all about preference, and ultimately, if you like it, then it's great, whether or not it's "good" gear or whatever. Just go to stores, play around with the gear, and see what you like. Buy what you want, not what the salesperson says is good.

I'm a former installer with a couple trophies under my belt, so I think I'm qualified to answer this question . The first thing you have to ask yourself is how much do you want to spend? Are you looking for something that's just going to sound alright and play CDs, or are you looking to go all out and build a slamming custom system that wins awards? You can literally spend an infinite amount of money on an audio system. Once you have your pricerange figured out, you can look at just what gear you can afford. First things you want to start with are a headunit and speakers. For the headunits, in a moderate pricerange, I recommend Eclipse, Alpine, Pioneer, and Kenwood. I've ran Alpines for years, but I will be switching to Eclipse on Monday. Best thing to do is go to Magnoia A/V or Car Toys or wherever and play with the stereos until you find one you love. Next item is speakers. You can spend anywhere from $10 to $10,000 on a pair of speakers, all with differing levels of sound quality. However, the higher-end speakers need seperate amplification, so factor that in accordingly. Decide whether or not you're willing to spend the cash on a component amplifier, and go from there. There are essentially two types of speakers; coaxial and component. Coaxial are your typical lower-end speakers, with the woofer and tweeter mounted on one assembly, with all the filtering done inside the assembly itself. Above that are the component speakers, which have a seperate woofer, tweeter, and crossover (and sometimes a midrange). These usually need to be powered by an amplifier, not the CD player. Again, listen to them in the store on the CD player you've chosen. Bring a CD you know and love - I use Stevie Ray Vaughn - Live at Carniege Hall to make my decisions. In the coaxial market, Eclipse, Infinity, and the Focal Access line are all pretty decent. Alpines can sound alright too, but they can be muddy. Just listen and decide. For component, MB Quart, Infinity, Focal, Adire, and Diamond are all excellent. I personally use a pair of Diamond M6s, and I love them. If you're going to get a component amplifier, spend some good money on it. The amplifier can make or break the system. Eclipse, Alpine, Xtant, JL, Planet Audio, and Zapco are all excellent. Make sure you get enough power to make those speakers really sing. I like to overpower my speakers by about 50W per channel, so I've got some headroom and I can avoid clipping and blowing up my speakers. Now, do you have any money left over? Then maybe it's time to think about a sub. First you need to decide just what kind of and how many subs you want to run. The more subs, the more volume, usually. The bigger subs offer a bit more volume and will generally play a bit lower than the smaller ones, but they're usually not as "tight" sounding. I like the sound of 10s in a small car and 12s in a bigger one. I've never really been a fan of 8s or 15s, but both have surprised me before. Again, listen to them. Recommended brands are Alpine, Infinity, Focal, Diamond, MTX (if you like boomyness), Kicker (again, boom), Eclipse, Xtant, JL, and Planet Audio. Once you know what subs you're going to run, pick out a box for them. Boxes come in three main varities - sealed, ported (also called vented), and bandpass. Sealed is the tighest of the bunch, but also the quietest. Ported is boomier and will play deeper, but loses some transient response characteristics, and also tend to be much larger than sealed. Then there's the one-note-wonder, the bandpass. A bandpass box has the sub(s) inside, usually behind a plexi window. A port or two comes out of the chamber. They love to play in a certain range, but beyond this small window of frequencies, they're nearly inaudible. They're great if you want to make a hell of a lot of racket, but don't care too much about the quality of the sound. They also tend to be HUGE. The biggest drawback to bandpass is if the sub is clipping and about to cook, you can't hear it, so you won't know until your sub is toast. Personally, I like the sound of a sealed box the best, but again, listen to subs in all kinds of boxes and choose the setup you like the most. Now, you'll need an amp if you get a sub or two. Personally, I like JBL, JL, Alpine, Xtant, Planet Audio, and to a certain extent, MTX amplifiers, among many others. Remember, get enough power - you don't want to underpower those subs. Amps usually go for about $1.00 a watt for decent stuff, so that should give you an idea. A good thing to look for is an amp that's D-class, meaning a digital amp. These tend to be nice and small, run really cool, don't require much power, and are great for driving a subwoofer. Also, look for a low-pass filter on the amp, and a subsonic filter if you can find one. Get a big enough amp and you'll be wanting a capacitor. These come in all sorts of varities and sizes, from .5 farad on up. I generally recommend 1 farad for every 500W RMS of amplifier power. You'll also need wiring, which you can buy in kits these days. The kits by DEI, Monster, Planet Audio, and JL are all really really nice. Last, I'll let you in on a little secret. There's two different ways of measuring power on any audio system; peak and RMS. Peak is the absolute maximum power a component can produce/handle for a very short period of time under ideal conditions. Peak power is a lie. You want to look at RMS power. RMS stands for Root Mean Squared, which refers to the way the wattage number is calculated. This basically gives you an idea of what a particular component can produce/handle under real world conditions. Always ask about RMS power, not peak. Hopefully that will steer you in the right direction. Remember, don't be afraid to ask questions of the sales person, but don't always trust what they say. Shop around, take notes, and ultimately, sit down and think about it. If anything the salesperson says seems fishy, it probably is. If you need some more info or have any questions, feel free to PM me, IM me ( samo ownz yuo ), or e-mail me ( samoownzyuo@msn.com ) . I'd be glad to help.

Looks awesome! White BRATs are cool

Pull-A-Part in Lynnhood is the best. I got a Pug steel with an awesome snow tire for $10, a brake reservoir cap for $2, and a horn with all the wiring for $3. I've gotten tons of awesome deals from them.

Click my sig.

Thanks for the sympathy guys. I really appreciate it. Luckily, my dad was kind enough to come all the way up from Portland to give me his Jetta, so I'll be rolling euro-style until I get my Soobie back or get a replacement. I live in Northgate, by the way. 125th and Roosevelt, right south of the golf course.

It was a 5-speed. And having a gun wouldn't have helped much. I live on the third floor on the opposite side of the building from the garage. I'm pretty sure I'll get her back... just the question is, in how bad of shape? I know my tools and stereo are gone for sure.

Okay, I posted this in O/T too, but O/T is taking too damn long. Be on the look out for my Subaru. It was stolen out of my garage in Northgate last night between 6:30 PM and 7:30 AM. It's a red 1992 Loyale wagon with 14" alloys, rally tires, a tire on the roof, lots of stickers, and lots of mud. Oregon plates ZLA 728, VIN JF2AN52B3ND406325 Here's what she looks like: If you spot it, please call 911. The case number is 04-303502.

Basic stuff like any other engine... timing belts, ignition stuff, the usual. They like to drip oil. Just keep an eye on the oil level. And don't let it overheat, you'll warp the heads, as mentioned above. Other than that, they're pretty well unstoppable. 181075 and still running like a champ.