samo

Are the FT4WD trannies 3.70 or 3.90? I definately want to do D/R after I lift my rig, but D/R + FT4WD + diff lock + LSD would absolutely rule.

^ True. I was referring to the part-time 4WD models, but obviously my wording wasn't quite accurate . I sooo want a D/R FT4WD with diff lock for my car... such a cool tranny.

I got the 14" ones for a couple reasons. First of all, the 14s are easy to find. I just went to Everett PAP and snagged them off one of the Peugeots. Second, since my car is not a serious offroader, I wanted alloys (they're a hell of a lot lighter), and I like the 14" bottlecaps better than the 15" 7-spokes.

Yep, you got it. Normally the S/R and D/R Subarus don't have a transfer case (although their are a few with a Nissan transfer case welded in with 30 forward gears!). They also don't really have a center differential, which is a lot of the reason why they bind so bad on sharp corners in 4WD. I hear the S/R --> D/R swap is a blam, though. Good luck with it - I'll hopefully be attempting the same thing in a year or so.

I know a number of VW guys have done it as a part of tubbing out the engine bay. However, I don't think they move it very far - maybe a couple of inches at the max. No idea how they do it, though.

You should look into Stongard. I work for Autogard in Bellevue, WA installing Stongard, and it seriously does an awesome job of protecting the paint. For those who don't know what Stongard is, it's a clear 9-mil adhesive-backed vinyl with a urethane layer on top that helps protect the paint from rock chips and other paint degredation. It's relatively inexpensive ($14/sq.ft or so) and does a great job.

I'm using Pilot Navigator 4x6 lights on the front of my rig. They're 55w, IIRC, and they're bright enough to make me happy. They're $40 at G.I. Joe's. EDIT: Better picture.

Subaru and Nissan (and maybe some others?) share the same size lugs - 12x1.25. If you've got the cash, any of the forged lugs are excellent - Hayame, Kryokugen, Rays, Zenki, etc.

This is quality: Jason Cambell's G35. Although it is a bit hard to see, everything in the interior, including the floor mats is covered in grey and blue Alcantara. Even crazier, the owner did all the work himself.

Gullwing wouldn't be possible without seriously rebuilding the doors. However, scissor (Lambo-style) doors are easy and relatively cheap. Bolt-on kits run in the $1500 range installed. If that's the look you're going for, it's easy enough. There are also SLR-style door kits available, but they require significant fabrication and are very espensive.

On my '92 Loyale, which may be a tad different, it's 6.5" in the front, but it's gotta be pretty shallow. My DAT components won't fit. I don't have rears.

Looks kickass, dude!! Makes me really really want to lift mine.

It's nice to see so many old Soobs still out and about. Gives me a lot of confidence in my car. I couldn't have hoped that my old Sentra would have lasted to 177,000, (poor thing got pretty sad at about 115,000) but the Subaru just keeps trucking. I can't kill it, and I've put it, and continue to put it through hell. Kickass cars, these Subarus.

My sidemoldings are attached with clips, but what I would generally use is 3M double-sided foam tape, AKA doublestick. I'm sure you've seen it - grey foam tape with a red plastic backing that's really hard to get off? I use that stuff for everything.

Awesome! Thanks for the push in the right direction. I guess I'll be hitting up PAP in the next couple days to see if I can snag some relays!

Awesome, thanks!

Ahh, Jay, that would be too easy! My worry with that is mud and grime and grossness would eventually work their way under the tape, and off goes the key. I want something permanent, completely stealth, reliable, and totally trick . I had a hell of a time finding a double-pole relay today, though. Schucks didn't seem to have any idea what I was talking about, which isn't surprising. I guess I could use two single-poles, but that's just more wiring and an even bigger mess of crap to stuff in the thin little doors of this car.

Gerry - thanks for your help dude! That helps quite a bit! I guess I'll go hunt down a double-pole relay! Caleb - I would do that, except that the locks are old and nasty and don't like to lock. They'll unlock with the key, but locking is a struggle. Plus, I'm not the only one who drives this car, and I can't guarantee that no one else will lock the keys in the car. With the long roadtrips that I do with this thing, I would hate for a friend to lock the keys in the car when we're in L.A. or Las Vegas or Atlanta or something. I just want a relatively fool-proof method to guarantee I can always get into the car.

Pretty please?

Is this going to happen tonite? It's 6:00, and I'd like to go, but "sometime after six" isn't definite enough for me... If it's gonna happen, somebody give me a ring - 206.351.8258. I'll even bring my cam and tripod.

NW Nismo's last team meeting was at Lynnhood Hooters. We also had one at Lake Union, but I was not impressed. At least at Lynnwood, a couple of the waitresses were pretty cute - too bad our waitress was SO FREAKING LOUD.

Okay guys, she's a '92 Loyale wagon, and I'm having a heck of a time figuring this out. What I'm trying to do is get either the locks to unlock or the driver's window to go down when you press a button hidden on the outside of the car. This is to keep me from locking myself out of the car and having to bust out the tailgate lock like I did this morning. So, here's what I've figured out. There's four wires on the door lock. Yellow is + all the time, black is - all the time. When the door is locked, one of the two left over (yellow with a white stripe and something else) is +, and the other is -. Unlock the door, and the polarity of the other two switches. Now, since there's no actuator on the driver's door, I'm guessing that I'm going to have a heck of a time forcing that door to unlock. Unless I get an actuator, which is more money than I want to spend. Now, my second option is to roll down the driver's window. It's gotta be the driver's, since it's the only one that isn't overridden by the window lock switch, which sometimes gets used. Now, I've found something a bit weird. At the harness, there's three wires that all seem to be tied into the driver's window. Pink, green, and yellow. If I apply power to the green or yellow, the window motor SOUNDS like it's doing something, but it doesn't. The pink seems to have power all the time, and the green and yellow have power when the window is going up and down, respectively (or it's vice versa). Going into the motor are two heavy-gauge wires, both read dead at rest. When going up, one wire is +, one -. When going down, the polarity is reversed, as expected. Now, my question to you is this. Which one wire can I connect to either 12v+ or ground to make either the doors unlock (probably impossible) or the driver's window roll down? If one wire simply isn't going to cut it, I can use relays as necessary, but I would like your assistance as to how to wire it up so it works correctly. Thank you all in advance!

Any EA82 hood will fit. That means late-model GL and DL, RX, and Loyale hoods will all fit with no problems.

Unfortunately, I can only give you a 50% chance I'll be there. Between my weird work schedule and pulling the motor on a Sentra, I'm not sure if I'll have the day free. I really really really really really really really want to go though!!

I have a set of Pilot Navigators. Certainly not the best brand out there, but they're VERY bright and have a great beam pattern. For $35, you can't go wrong!