WoodsWagon

One thing to watch with chlorinated brake clean is welding. The heat of welding will create phosgene gas which will destroy your lungs. So don't use it to clean a part before welding.

Yeah, I said 3.9 because it's an 85 5spd wagon. I'm assuming it's not LSD, so when he looks at the diff it will have a big silver sticker that says 3.9, and no LSD writing on it. So my mistake, I wasn't trying to imply it would have a 3.9 LSD in it. I have a 3.9 LSD, but that's because I swapped carriers. It could just as easily be a 4.11 or 4.44 if I used one of the other diffs out of my shed.

Most probably not, but if it is it has a big silver sticker on the rear cover that will have LSD in big letters as well as the 3.9 ratio.

Easy fix. It takes a pair of sharp tweezers and a small pair of side cutters to twist the legs of the bulb through the plastic bulb holder and trim them to length. Or, you can buy the whole bulb and holder as a part from the dealer.

Did it punch through the cooling crossover? I've seen them ventilate the top of the block and keep running fine on 3. As long as it's still holding coolant it should keep going. Where's your sense of adventure? You could also rent a tow dolly and pull the rear driveshaft to haul it back.

Depending on how smoked it is, you may be able to put oil in it and drive it back home. The 2.2's are pretty tough. They are also dirt cheap to buy in junkyards and you can swap it in a weekend in your driveway with a rented engine lift and hand tools.

I used a solenoid out of an 80's cadillac Seville for mine. Evap solenoids are really common, just make sure the resistance is in the right range and splice it in. Don't limit yourself to subarus at the junkyard when looking for a replacement.

I lost a couple exhaust valves on a 92 EJ22 to oil burning. Both valves looked like they had a cutting torch taken to them, and they both happened on the same cylinder. I chucked a used 95 head on it and that lasted 6 months before it's valve burned. Oil consumption would go through the roof running it with the burnt valve. I'd unplug the injector, but it was using a quart every 400 miles. There was oil residue all over the back of the car. I drove it like that for about a month each time, the second time I chucked in a used engine out of a postal wagon and it didn't have any issues. It could be an injector issue, I put the postal engine in fully dressed. Same computer and firewall harness though. I beat the hell out of that engine and it never flinched.

That's the recirculate mode. It opens a flapper door behind the glovebox so the fan in pulling air from the interior rather than outside at the base of the windshield. It goes into that mode when you select max AC. You don't get any more air, but you do get more fan noise because the intake of the fan is now inside the car with you. It's best to pull the evaporator box from under the dash and replace it with the plastic bellows connector that non-ac cars have. You don't have to pull the dash to get it out.

WRX trannies are 3.9's. It's the 1.1:1 rear transfer gears that make it run a 3.54 rear diff. You can swap the transfer gears with a 1:1 set and run a 3.9 rear diff.

It will still rev fine with a dead injector. I've driven thousands of miles on 3cyl ej22's. When you think about it, an EJ22 on 3cyls is the same as an ea82 on all 4. If it won't rev up, you have a bigger problem than just the injectors.

I'd be suspicious of the fuel pump or a kinked inlet line to the pump from the tank. If it doesn't have good fuel pressure, all it will do is idle. The second thought is the coilpack. Listen for snapping noises around it when you try to rev the engine. Water makes it much easier for spark to jump out of bad insulation under load. You can also spray it with a mister bottle of water. You should have dielectric grease slathered around the terminals where the spark plug wires attach to the coil pack and under the boots to seal it up from water.

It's on the passenger side of the transmission, about halfway back pretty much straight down from the firewall. It's easiest if you pull the intake duct off so you can fit your arms down in there. 17mm stubby open end wrench I think.

I've had them come apart due to rust breaking the bond between the rubber and the metal, but not had the rubber tear before.

Have you done the 4x4 lock switch mod to your legacy? What final drive ratio does it have?

You need the pedal box with attached pedals and clutch cable, the transmission, the shifter assembly and shift boot, and the transmission crossmember. Grab all the bolts too. Axles are the same as long as you're putting in a non-turbo manual trans. If it had the 4eat auto trans, it would be worth fixing, the 3at sucks to drive so a 5spd manual is a huge improvement. Oh, a 4x4 trans will work too, just cap off the rear output. I've used a spray paint cap with rtv before.

I've ripped the rear transfer gears out of 2 d/r 5spds and grenaded the front diff in another... they aren't that strong either. I had a 1" square tube subframe that connected the lower radiator support to the front crossmember with an 1/8" steel skidplate. The oil filter got crushed by a 4" thick piece of ice that got jammed up in there doing some trailbreaking in a frozen pond one winter. Came really close to ripping it off, luckily it held and I noticed it later.

There will be two hose barbs sticking out over by the power steering pump. One is connected to the EVAP purge solenoid, the other goes over to the triplet of hose connections on the drivers side. If you use a hose to connect the two over by the power steering pump, it routes the purge solenoid vacuum to the line going to the rear of the car.

You take out the access plug, pull the clip with needle nose pliers, and then either drive the pin out by running a long rod in through the opposite access hole or use a puller of some sort. I made an adapter for my slide hammer that pulls them out pretty easy. If you're loosing chunks out of the pistons, you're doing it wrong.

If the 2.2 is from an auto with EGR, the harness is plug and play. The 2.5l flywheel will bolt up to the 2.2l, but it's heavier than a 2.2l one. That may be good for lugging the engine down and smooth takeoffs, but it will slightly hamper the responsiveness of the engine. Use the A/C compressor bracket off the 2.5l. The evap hoses will be different, but it's easy to figure out. The canister is in the back of the car rather than under the hood so you need to make a hose loop.

A friend wheeled the piss out of an 88 samurai and I wheeled the piss out of my 94 Loyale, both with 235/75r15's on them. The samurai could go a lot more places because there wasn't anything vulnerable on the underside. We'd get it jammed up on rocks, highcentered on logs and stuck deep in brooks, but you couldn't break anything underneath. Just keep the 1.3l screaming and hammer it back and forth until it would find a way out. I had issues bending the suspension, tearing the captured nuts out of the body, ripping off the exhaust, folded the driveshaft carrier bearing over, and nearly tore the oil filter off my subaru in various wheeling adventures. There are a lot of exposed weak parts under a subaru that you don't get on a samurai or sidekick, so you have to be more careful wheeling them.

Honestly the 4eat is better for wheeling with than a d/r 5mt. Just build a good skid plate for the transmission pan and have at it. If you end up running way bigger tires, 4.44 4eats and matching TCU's are pretty easy to come by in late 90's outbacks. Slipping the torque converter rather than burning up a clutch makes wheeling tight spots a lot easier.

The 2.2l flexplate has a deeper dish to it to take up the space of the smaller torque converter. It won't let you fully seat the engine if you try putting it on a 2.5l transmission and tc. Found that out the hard way the first time I did a swap.

Get a 3/4" sliding t-handle breaker bar and a 3/4" to 1/2" impact grade adapter. Put that on your socket through the middle of the wheel with it sitting on the ground with the brakes on or wheel chocked, then jump on the breaker bar. Or, slip a pipe over it and lean on it with lots of leverage.

02 outback is speed-density EFI, no MAF sensor, only MAP. That's why they're super sensitive to vacuum leaks.