
WJM
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Oh Joy!! more coolant questions
WJM replied to MaroonDuneDoom's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Oh no...the red zone. Well, dont expect the suby motor to last too much longer...my RX engine did that, then the head decided to let a valve seat go, and burn a valve at the same time.... Ok, here is how I did my engine flush...dont do this with the enigne hot!! It needs to be COLD. Take the t-stat out, and the reinstall the housing, and take the upper rad hose off. Have a water hose handy, and a nozzle with a rubber tip, so it seals into the rad cap seat...haha, no water back spray onto you! Stick the nozzle in, open her wide open! Start the car, and elt her idle, let all the coolant run out, so you get clear water, then run it like so for a couple more mins. YOu might want to hold you hand over the upper rad hose entrace to the rad, as some water might leak out there as well. Now turn the engine off, and take the lower rad hose off...now stick the nozzle in the upper rad hose thingy, and WOT the noz...oh, put the rad cap on. Flush for a min or so...now take the rad cap off, and flush for a bit...now, do the same, but from the lower hose thingy, and the rad cap thingy. Do all of this until you get clear water. Now...let the rad drain, hook all the hoses back up, and fill the rad with pure coolant, you might wanna install a brand new 180 deg t-stat and gasket before this step....then, it should run nice and cool!! -
Oh Joy!! more coolant questions
WJM replied to MaroonDuneDoom's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
is the car running hot? My RX does the same...but runs cool. If the pump shaft wiggles, its gonna go bad soon...there are holes, 'weep' holes on the waterpump, if there is coolant comming from those holes, its bad. Its always a good idea to flush, reverse flush, then flush again, the whole coolant system. i didnt that on the RX when i first got it, then it ran cool again...like its doing now. -
Better get a donor car! Wiring mess. Engine crossmember. Those are the biggest things.
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Blow Off Valve. Relieves the air pressure surge when you let off the gas suddenly on a turbo car....and it makes a cool sound.
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Thinking of dynoing the RX...
WJM replied to Subarutex's topic in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Pleadies's RX can be considered stock. Since most people, as soona s they get a SUBARU, and are of performance mind, they hack the airbox and do somethinga bout that stock muffler. I think we can consider it stock....right boys? I will run MY RX..... -
Yeah. there they are.
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Might want to try this, as it better than a rebuild...change out the fluid, as much of it as you can....if a shop can do it, flush out the whole trans, and while you are doing that, from the dealership, get the trans filter/screen or whatever it takes....i dont remember which one. If it doesn clear up with that...well, at least you've just dont some preventative maintenance! Im sure there is an auto. trans expert surfing here somewhere...
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Ok, I we did indeed get my RX back up and running. This time...NO LEAKS!! And...it appears as if things are pulling hard once again. no...problem. Severe boost creep past 4k at WOT....heres the thing...I cant keep it in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, or 4th for more than 4~5 seconds!! But, I did do a few long pulls in 5th, not much space around here...and it crept up to aobut 15psi...no cut, no running out of breath either....right up to 7k. Hm. So, on the last pull, notibly the most dangerous I might add, as I and the RX were doing some ungodly speed down some tar/gravel back road, looking at the boost and rpms....I pulled 15psi for about 8 seconds maybe? I know it was longer than 6!! I was counting nice and slow. And then, boost dropped suddenly to about 10psi, and I lost power, like it was bogging. No ig/fuel cut like Skipper and SubaurTex says it does, just, power loss and boost drop. OH!! 3 right over crest! CARE! TREES!! Ok, past that. Still runs like before, no issues. I should be taking it out on another run here soon....if i can get away from cleaning things up around here. :-\
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down here, the rice cars that prowl the street are sticker cars, stockers with rice intakes and exhausts. There are lots around here tho that have real power. Some supras, one 2.5 RS Turbo, and a handful of Civics and 240s that are turbo'ed. Those dont prowl the streets for some reason. It seems the real power cars dont get caught on the street, while the riceboys and their riced up cars are always out looking for trouble.
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Id be running the timing as far adavanced as possible with out haveing detonation, and always run the highest octane avalible for any turbo car.
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answers! A: No. Pleadies has a bottomless inbox, with all those nice plasti peices removed. I Have a big 3 inch ID 'riceboy' cone filter stuck stright on the MAF with one of those MAF adapters. B: With Pleadies RX, and my GL-10...possibly. But last i had the exh off my GL-10, which wasent long ago...it was solid. Both cars run with no muffler, although Pleadies's RX has a glasspack. My RX has a 2.5" downpipe, with wastegate relief - Similar to the subspeed one. C: Huh? You mean the cam profiles from the factory for 85-86 cars vs the 87+ cars? I dont understand why these two cars are not hitting the boost cut either. Ive got a MBC comming, and when I ge thte RX's engine back together, again, then I'll cranck up the boost and see what happens at 14psi.
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ALL Spyders are MPFI. It is rumored that the EJ18 was offered as TBI/SPFI (throt. body/single port fuel inject. Same thing really), and MPFI. The differeces, that I know of, between turbo and non turbo spyders...are as follows.... Injectors Turbocharger coolant return to the t-stat housing yeah, thats all I know. Pleadies and i came accross something strange...I have two 87+ turbo intakes (one on my RX, and the other aquired some elsewhere), both have different wiring harnesses. I have a single turbo spyder, and two non turbo spyders. Both the non turbos have different wiring. One will plug right up to my RX, while the other one (pleadies's now), the turbo, and that other standard turbo one, wont plug up. Different connectors and harness. Hm...I still have the standard turbo intake, the spyder turbo, and the N/A spyder that has the similar to 89 RX wiring harness. Experimenting will commence the first of the year me thinks.
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Skip: we went out, and the RX didnt seem to hit anything, jsut run out of breath around 6k. He was running 12psi. We did a few long pulls. Now, there was a little big of a hop/skip type of surge....but just a tad. Then we went out in the GL-10...and it's hop/skip surge was 4 times worse that the RX. But I was running stock boost. My RX...it boost bleeds after 4k. It'll run up to 10psi and stop, I *think* i only got fuel cut once...but it was notihng like you describe. After that first time it hit 10psi, it never did anytihn gout of the ordinary again. Just pulled like crazy at 10psi. I did several long pulls, and raced some mercades sedan on the interstate. A LONG 5th gear pull there...got to 125~130 or so, I had to let off a few times to let him catch up...then lay into it again to stay in front.
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note the cars in the sig. I have both. Both acted the same. The GL-10 runs out, as of now, and before mods, at 5500. The RX runs out at the same, stock. WIth some mods, at 5500. With ALL mods, it runs out at 8k...or sometihng like that. No trying to bash you, but Ive ridden in another RX, with intake and exh mods, and it runs out at 5500~6000 as well. Its an 88. Granted that STOCK...an 86 vs an 89, the 86 runs out at 5k more so than the 89...but still, past 5500 of the cars Ive experenced...they are done for, STOCK.
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they do???
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They are fixed bars. Not reciever type. When mine gets in, I'll post pics.
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compresion is same. Its the electrical systems that are different. THe Engine control system is way different on 87+ cars as opposed to 85/86 cars.
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I ca get them. There are 39 left. If I can get enough interest, Im sure I can get them in bulk, and out to ya'll at a discounted price. Right now, the after the costs for us to get them shipped in, they will cost around $87. Im sure, in bulk, we can get them for less. Lets see how much interest we've got!
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non turbo spyders are plentiful to find. I got two for free. I got my turbo one off of an engine.
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Its really simple: lower comression=less overall power. More compression=higher overall power. *NOTE: There are different aspects of tuning to get max power out of certin setups* Carb/MPFI/SPFI block: Well...depends on the fuel and other things you run. FOr regular street use, i think it would be best to have an auto behind a 9.5:1 turbo engine. YOu can use a 5spd tho, thats what i run. You will get gobs more power from it if you run the right fuel in it, say 100 octane. But with regualr pump gas...youd have to retard the timing, and the only thing you get over the stock turbo block is more low end grunt...and DONT run anything less than 91 octane!! Now to the cams.....pulls like a freakin rocket. To no end too. INSTANT turbo spool...but, ive got some severe intake and exh mods as well. Spyders? On any XT, 87.5 and up.
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Hey Miles, i looked in the owners manual for the specs, and carb block have 9.0:1, and the FI blocks have 9.5:1....yet they have the same bore and stroke, and pistons. Heads seem to be the same. I dont know how they get different compression from the same engine, with a different fuel system. Hmmm....... I almost would not recommend doing a 9.5:1 bottom end...you have to be very careful on tuning in the timing, and you ABSOLUTELY HAVE TO RUN the highest octane street fuel, short of competition fuels, at ALL TIMES. At this time, I have NEVER run more than 8psi of boost on this, and I wouldnt recommend it without a proper intercooler setup. Under load, even on 8 deg of timing, before boost comes on, when the vac advance on the dist kicks in, it STILL detonates. The ONLY solution to this is 100 octane competition fuels. THEN, you can run 25 to 30 deg of timing, and it'll boil all 4 tires, with an otherwise stock setup. Otherwise...run 4 to 5 psi, and an intercooler and 20~25 deg of timing, and it'll be fine. If you dont run an IC, and 8psi of fuel...retard the timing way back or run competition fuel. But still.....this engine have mucho low end torque. Oh and more MPG.
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ok, what is what? http://www.subaruworld.net/rxracer/springs.jpg these came off of the front of my RX, they are both different! SO which one is the correct one? Also, does anyone know where I can get/order/find uprated springs, that are lower, for racing purposes?
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When i get my EJxx turbo project(s) going....Oring'in will be one thing I will experiment with.
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oddcomp: WIth regard to that wrist pin access plug...I never took it out. Good thought tho, if I had done bottom end work. Since I work at NAPA, I'll see what Rockford has to offer in the way of bolts, studs and nuts.