WJM

THE ORDER IS NOW CLOSED, THE ORDER HAS BEEN PLACED SUPER PRO BUSHING ORDER: WJM: 18MM LEADING ROD SET, 24MM CONTROL ARM SET, TRAILING ARM SET JWX: 24MM CONTROL ARM, REAR TRIALING ARM SET, 18MM LEADING ROD SET RALLYRUSS: 24MM CONTROL ARM SET, 18MM LEADING ROD SET, TRAILING ARM SET EDRACH: SPF1383-24K SPF1383-22K TIZZLE: SPF 2755SK, SPF2239K, SPF138319K, 18MM LEADING ROD KIT, 24mm control arm set, trialing arm set, when 10am comes around, I will not be taking additional orders...however, those who are on the list (or make it in before 10am) can ammend or correct their ordered items. I am ordering some super pro bushings for my RX from boxer4racing.com. I would like to get atleast 4 other people to order some with me if at all possible. the 18mm leading rod bushings however are only avalible thru Jason Porter of Top Speed...which is where I will be getting those. SPF1097K - $30 Front Control Arm Lower - Inner Bush Kit contains 4 Bushings, 2 Tubes To fit arm with hole ID of 28mm (EA81) SPF1691K - $60 Front Control Arm Lower - Inner Bush Kit contains 2 Bushings, 2 Tubes To fit arm with hole ID of 24mm (EA82) SPF1098K - $34 Front Strut Bar To Chassis Mount (LEADING ROD) Kit contains 4 Bushings To suit 17mm outside diameter shaft (Measure!) SPF2534K# - $TBA (approx $30~$40, these dont officially exist) Front Strut Bar To Chassis Mount (LEADING ROD) Kit contains 4 Bushings To suit 18mm outside diameter shaft (Measure!) SPF2755SK - $12 Front Sway Bar Link To Lower Arm Kit contains 4 Bushings 1984 - 1994 L12 SPF2239K - $19 Front Sway Bar Link Upper Bush Kit contains 2 Bushings, 2 Tubes Sway bar end bush SPF1383-__K - $10 Front Sway Bar Mount To Chassis Bush Kit contains 2 Bushings Measure bar diameter, 15-24mm available SPF1100-__K - $15 Front Sway Bar Mount To Chassis Bush Kit contains 2 Bushings Measure bar diameter, Only suits 10/1979 - 1984 SPF1099-__K - $15 Front Sway Bar To Strut Arm "D" Bush Kit contains 2 Bushings 10/1979 to 1984, probably 17mm but 19 also avail. (Measure!) SPF1144K - $70 Rear Trailing Arm - Bush Kit Kit contains 8 Bushings, 4 Tubes Use OE shell

thats a good question....whenever Tom gets around to needing them for his twin turbo 25 PSI EA engine...

15.5 psi. rarely did the boost controller spike to 16. MOST of the time whenever the boost was up, it was 13~14. However, 80% of the time it was at stock levels.

i think that with the anti drain back valve on the oil filter...and the mounting location of the cooler core and routing of the lines....aka LOW....it should be a non issue. My first design i had the T-stat adapter like I was selling and that Folgers is now selling...and I had the cooler down basically where the air dam is on an RX. The lines and cooler were practically at the same level as the oil pan, not any higher at all except for the lines at the adapter. The wagon never had a pres guage on it...so I dont know.... As for version 2....I had the core behind the grille, a remote filter mounting kit, the filter was sitting in the space where the airbox was, and a non-t-stat adapter on the engine. Im sure that there was about a 1~3 second delya for the rest of the engine to get oil when really cold, but I didnt worry about it when it was aboive 20*F. After all, a synthetic will stay on the parts and protect it longer than dino.....Id keep the cooler and lines running as low as possible, avoid elevating it above the oil pump/top of the oil pan if at all possible.

So howmuch does that Dynomat stuff weigh?

thats what the wagon is getting. No doubts about it. EJ25 swap, dynomat EVERYWHERE. Floor, firewall, celling, doors...its going to ride as quiet as an 05 Legacy.

damnit....I'll get MSDIS when I get the DIS part working correctly...and the MS part will be after that. The car makes 150~160 HP on STOCK boost as it is. 12 PSI yeilds ~190 hp.

so why is it that the WORST cracks Ive seen are on the gen 2 and 3 heads? the Gen1 heads are basically hairline cracks. I'll have to measure tomorrow see if the distance was actually increased.

Like so.

I was. They never failed. Reason for failure was....burned exhaust valve and the rings were destroyed.

SNAP! I accidentally punched in 185/70/15 No wonder...woops. so its 2.5 inches. Those are Khumo Ecsta V710s. Those are good for about 80~100 autox runs...about 20~25 autox's, they are a DOT legal tire, with a stated treadwear of 50....they ARE a true R compund tire. Really nice on the track as well as autox. Those cost us about $180 each from The Tire Rack. However...these are going on a WRX in reality....BUT...they WILL be test fitted on the RX. I seriously doubt I'll have much issue once I get the proper offset/back spacing for the wheels and the ride height correct. From there its just a matter of some fiberglass to make a widebody kit or just some simple flares for it.

12~14 deg.

only 1/2 inch over stock dia.

Yes....thats right...new shoes! muhahahahahahaha.

So i was looked at my 4 heads today...and picked out two of the better looking ones....a gen1 which is bare, and the cracks are BRAELY noticable between the valves. It came out of a 93k mile engine in which the HG was blown on the other side, and the engine was not overheated. The other came off of....uhhhm...what was it....i cant reember, I think it was the junkyard engine in the RX when i frist got it that we didnt reuse the heads...one crack is really noticable, the other one is not. The first is a Gen1 head. The second is a gen2. Had the subie techs looking them over...the old guys who were working on the EA81's and EA82's when they first came out...they said it didnt matter which head I used as long as they presure tested fine. Me: "But, this one is a Gen2 head, its better..." Them: "No, there are no differences in them other than the casted designation. SUBARU never said there was anything better about the gen2 and 3 heads...they are all the same regardless." That being said, Ive seen the same amount of ruined gen1 vs gen2 vs gen3 heads, and ive never had issues with any Gen1 heads Ive had. Ive had several sets of Gen2s as well. That and Ive never seen any documentation that Gen2 and Gen 3 are any better than Gen1. Just part number supercessions....ofcourse the HG's have the same number of redesigns as the heads....some parts have 7 redesigns and look the same/function the same as the first design. Opinions? Facts? Flames?

the cometics wont be READY in time for this weekend. They are multi-layer metal gaskets much like the newer style EJ HGs. They are the BEST ones to use. Tom and I talked about Copper...he said on closed deck engines, they are fine to use as long as you are not going crazy with combustion chamber presures. Open deck and semi closed are a no no...as you still get some minor deck walk...and CU HGs dont like that. Also, they dont like to seal....you need to be careful with a proper sealant for the coolant. I too have realized this when I had CU HGs for a while. So we came to the general consensus that the CUHG's are not for me....the OE's would be ok for now, and the Cometics would be best. the only ones that are junk are the ones that are NOT OE...good ones=OE and beyond. When i do build an engine, I'll have studs and a completely reworked block and heads.

ricer! Nice tho.

factory is....43? 45? 47? one of those. (ft-lbs that is) when i put my 9.5:1 engine together...it lasted 24k miles and I TQ'd it down to like 60 or so....it burned a valve and destroyed the rings. the HG's were PERFECT...and OE at that. the last engine in the wagon was NAPA HGs...lasted 17k miles, also TQ'd at ~60. The other wagon engine got ~60 as well, and OE HG's....but something internally let go...only 2k miles on it at that point. :-\ This RX engine....factory specs to the letter/number. ~20k miles on it... So....Im thinking Im going to TQ the heads down somewheres between 65~75. What do you other experts think? I'll be using OE again, as the Cometics are not ready, CU wont be ready in time...and unless I oring, the CU's are worthless...I had and extended talk with Tom at TWE today as well.

I managed 24k miles from my 9.5:1 EA82T engine.

I made one. Pics when I find them.

Damn. you talk sense. This is what I was preaching before saturday morning. I have renewed faith. SM prepare to suck vacuum.

YOU of all people should NOT be telling me to go EJ.... IF...IF...*IF*...i go to EJ...it will be an NA setup, EJ25x.

i know ive not gotten anywhere close to maxing out the engine. After looking at all the headgaskets...the EA82 and EARLY EJ gaskets ARE the weak link.... However, after lifting and moving around EA vs EJ engines...the EJ would ony be a 50lb gain. Loss of coolness of turbo power, severe gain in reliability, and only a small loss in power. I can get an EJ22T, complete, for $600....

my point(s) being that the EA82T RX is a competitive and fast car in SM locally (and would have been at this last National Tour event as well...it runs as fast as the RS on med. size courses, and on the larger ones, is a tad faster...so, 5th~6th i would have placed), those enignes CAN make a ton of power in a not too far from stock form, there ARE aftermarket items for the cars, and the transmission can take 4 wheel Race tire launches on a hot stickey surface no problem. There are still MANY areas to make the car even faster....front-center LSD, MS+DIS, ball bearing VNT turbo, Cometic multi-layer metal head gaskets....etc.... But....is it time to move to EJ? EJ into Leone? the EJ calls stronger than ever before....specifically, an EJ251/EJ253...an RS/Forester/Legacy Phase 2 SOHC EJ25.... What also calls....is Impreza....RS or L with EJ22E in it....but then again, the Forester is now classed for Solo2...it calls as well....... What sucks is I JUST landed REAL sponsorship with the RX...suspension goodies... Well...off to price out and gather all the items I will need for this weekend.

I have not decided on one or both for sure yet....i WANT to do both....but I dont think I have a spare head for it...ive got 4 heads, and barely one of them look good enough to send off an resurface to replace the one on the car. We've got HG's in stock tho.... I was thinking about re-TQ'in the drivers side...and replaceing the pass side stuff.