opus

Sounds like choke not working right to me. 2-3K is where I would shift it, more towards 3k.

The only thing I notice is there is no juice to the choke wire. It is plugged into the 3 prong back on drivers side of carb. Gauges all work, etc.

That was the only wire that I was unsure of. Seeing the end it had, I was pretty sure it was a ground. Just was wondering why there were 2 wires instead of the normal 1.

The anti-diesel do-hickey has 2 wires coming off of it. All the ones I have ever seen have only 1 wire. The 2nd wire had an end on it that goes under a screw. I left it alone and the car ran kinda rough. So by chance, I grounded that wire....smoothed out perfectly. Whats that all about? Also, the blue wire that goes to the choke, is that supposed to have juice to it when the car is running? It does not at this time. There is no choke on the car at this time so I cant tell you if the choke works or not.

Can you raise the idle using the adjusting screw? Is the wire to the anti-stall still connected and working?

In my opinion, when you get the tick, get some Marvel Mystery oil and add it to the crankcase. If something is going to work, it will be that. Run some in the gas tanks as well. I kinda doubt a bent valve.

I'll have to think on this some. The wagon would have to be rust free. I'd might even go for an ea82 wagon 5 spd d/r with an ej22 in it. Think...think...think......

Funny, I have 2-ea82 carb'd wagons and have found them to be excellent. Totally reliable. That being said, I also am pretty good about changing belts, etc. Thats off topic though......

Mama will only let me have so many. :/ The brat is kinda impractical for me at this time.

http://s267.photobucket.com/albums/ii289/opusthe2nd/brat/ And find a SOLID ea81 wagon with a 5spd D/R? I think I do.

Ok, need pics now!

I wouldnt fork the money for the weber. The Roch is a great carb. Has to be a way to make it work. Wait for someone to chime in and see where you get. How did you get it to bolt up?

Would/could a Hitachi dist. from a 1975 DL, GL fit in an ea81-82??

Good on ya! Thats actually a plus in my book.

Sorry, ea82 wagon. I've done this before, just never in-frame. Cam seals, belts, oil pump seals, valve covers, crank seal are going to be done.

Easiest way would be to pull the radiator and go that route? Is the oil pump easy enough to do that way, as well? Would rather pull the engine but I dont have any muscle around to help me.

I dont think advising to hold the clutch in is good advice...at least in my opinion. I think the clutch should be engaged when you start any car. Bad throw out bearing visions I guess. One of mine with 80/90 will go forward when you start it too. Contrary to what everyone here thinks, I run ATF in my 5spd D/R winter and summer. The other I run synthetic. I like the ATF better. I've put a lot of mile on it with no issues. Then again......what do I know.

Not sure if any of this might help you: http://www.box.net/shared/4fmearkah4

And you all berate carbs so much.

Here you go: http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/1031179833.html

I say drive it as it is. Take care of it, save your money and show us you can be a big boy.

Take a peek here: http://www.allofcraigslist.com/results.html?cx=partner-pub-7049007453439852%3Awy8rxh-g8qf&cof=FORID%3A10&ie=ISO-8859-1&q=subaru+brat&sa=Search#1129

I do. Whether that is right or not, doesnt matter. I dont have many vacuum hoses so that is the route I took.

Mine has vacuum at all times. When it is cold, the little do-hicky in the snorkel allows the vacuum to close the flap. When it warms, it closes it.

http://www.rickwrench.com/50dollarpaint.html Just a thought.