Crazyeights

The 2 wires are really easy to find. First one is ground and should be common to all the gauges. Second is +12v to the cluster, I think it is at the gauges too. I probably found it with an ohm meter looking at the printed circuit on the back of the cluster. I might have also referred to the schematic, can't remember. The cluster does NOT seem to need power to retain the mileage for an indefinite period of time. It must be stored in some kind of NVRAM or something. It's a good trick to keep in your tool box. You might also want mileage on an engine you are about to grab at P-A-P like I was doing. A nine volt might even work, but I think I used my DeWalt battery:)

Look at one from a 70's or early 80's Audi. From memory some of those might just be about right. Perhaps a Fox, 100, or even a VW Dasher from that era.

I have an EJ22 with alternator on the stand at the moment. I also have a Maxima alt on my EA81. I took measurements of both and it looks like either would bolt right up. I think it would just be a matter of sorting out the wiring. Someone is working on it here I think. AU Subaru

Grab a dash cluster plug for your tool box. A small 12 volt source (cordless drill, flashlight battery, or whatever) is more than plenty to power the cluster and get the mileage. I have done this several times. It requires pulling the cluster if it's still there, but they come out really easy. Plug your battery with connector in to the dash and the mileage shows up as it IS stored in the cluster. It's only 2 wires - power and ground - (obvious on the connector pin-out). If the cluster is already gone Carfax or DMV is probably the only way to recover the mileage. Hope it helps.

The adapter plate in addition to providing a bolt in no-drilling solution also has locations for both EA and EJ dowels to lock the engine and trans in proper alignment. Your solution of 4 nuts might work but it does not guarantee proper alignment, not to mention the lost surface area when clamping the 2 together. If it works for you then by all means keep doing it. I wouldn't knock SJR's products though. They are top quality and well respected here.

Chrysler makes a really good sealer specifically for ATF/Trans pans. Most all of the dealer parts guys know what it is. Ford also makes a sealer in a caulking tube that is for diesel engine oil pans. It will work with ATF also, but beware if applied correctly you have have to darn near destroy the pan to remove it if you use that stuff:grin: It can really get you out of a jam though if you need to "make" a front oil pan to timing cover seal that won't leak.

I just recently pulled timing components off of (2) EJ22E's both at about 140k miles are the grease was gone from the bearings in all of the idlers and tensioner. They weren't destroyed yet but IMO they couldn't be used any longer without at least re-packing them. The water pump bearings still felt ok. I did re-pack one set with a needle just to see what they felt like and as above they felt like new again. I didn't re-install them however. Just FYI if the mileage helps any. I wonder how long do they last when they are re-packed if you don't destroy the seal doing it. Has anyone tried this with success?

You have done such beautiful work with the rest of the restoration no doubt you will do just as well with this. I'm sure someone will help if needed. Refer to diagrams if available, or make your own and just take your time - one circuit at a time. Looks like you are off to a good start:)

Short answer is no. Intake manifolds are very different as well as heads and MANY other parts. I suppose with enough time, money, and talent you could do almost anything but IMO this just isn't worth it. @GD EA82T heads and intakes are dual port vs single port on the EA81T, correct? Here are some pics of the EA81T I am currently working on for reference. EA81T thread

You will also need the small bracket that is spot welded to the floor on the inside of the trans tunnel (by the drivers seat) to mount your D/R shifter lever. The auto car doesn't have this either.

It seems to me that the radius arm plates for an automatic car do not have the mounting tabs for the 4 speed crossmember. I remember having to find and swap them when I did mine. Just another small detail that can be a pain if you aren't prepared for it.

Be careful of the sensor itself (hard or impossible to find). They look like standard female bullet connectors once you get them off. Just solder them back on to the wires or retrofit something else.

Thompson Engine These guys sell oversize piston sets including rings that will work in the EA81 (look them up for EA82). Prices are good too.

My guess would be the knock sensor. Is this an EA81T?

This was the best I could get with my cell phone

I just pulled an EA81 down last week. The distributor drive gear is on the front end of the crank. Remove the pulley and the seal and it should slide right out. I think the gear is a soft metal like aluminum so it could be worn. The beveled side goes in towards the engine. Good Luck!

Probably a blend door or cable adjustment. It shouldn't be too hard to get to the bottom of it. Does the blower sound like it's running at full speed? Do any other positions like defrost or heat push a normal amount of air?

Try Naval Jelly on the rusty chrome wheels.

I still have them.

Yes, EA82 pistons will work also. They will raise compression slightly more than the EA71 pistons will. I have built EA81's both ways and they work great:grin:

Seriously though, good luck. You will get them out. I think part of the key is patience.

Thanks Bennie that's good to know. I am still trying to decide on weather or not to go ahead with the EA81T build or just shelve it for now and finish my EJ22 conversion. So far I have a good block that would end up .020 over with new pistons and (2) good pair of heads already pressure tested - ready for valve grind, seals, and surfacing. The EA81 Turbo engine cross member all cleaned up

The shock of an impact does seem to have a positive effect on breaking up the corrosion.

@ Caboobaroo PM Sent

Someone here told me to use 3/8 impact on those and they almost never break that way. So far after the usual soaking with PB ect, this hasn't failed me yet. I know it sounds crazy but it works:eek: