Crazyeights

Let me know Ed, if you can't make I'll try and grab it for you before the cars gone.

No Doubt it probably could. I just finished an EJ swap in my EA Wagon and it will easily BURY the needle on the 85 mph clock with plenty of room left on the tach. I won't be making a habit of it though, just wanted to see what was up there:D

Looking great so far! Kudos to you for saving this one!

Ed, it is a silver 1984 4-speed - but it is going fast!

You sure can't beat the price on the Craftsman - I think my Fluke was about 10 times that:eek:

If you plug in the green test connectors with the key on do the fuel pump and relays pulse on and off?

I'll have to look at my notes but it sounds like you might be missing some grounds. I think I recall quite a few that I tied in to a couple that bolt to the block. Review the ECM pinouts (the grounds are all listed) and see that you aren't missing some. (sorry if you have already covered this)

car-part.com Search also for JDM engine suppliers in your area. There are LOTS of options parts out there.

It's easy to miss the small yellow "key switched" wire to the diode in the harness near the ECM. Neither relay will energize without this. So far I am getting away with the small return line and my swap runs great. Not sure of long term effects on the fuel pump though. Like Gloyale says the large yellow wires going to the relays MUST have constant fused power from the battery. Also, go through ALL the ECM pinouts and make sure you didn't miss a ground or two somewhere in the harness. Good Luck!

Wow, small world. Anyway that station is now gone - soon it will be a bank I think.

Pulling all the stuff from a donor car would be best IMO. Look on your heater control and see if it says "Car is equipped installation of optional AC" or something like that. This will be a huge plus as most of the wiring should already be there. Here is a short list of what you'll need off the top of my head. Condenser in front of the radiator Correct combination of brackets for alternator and AC compressor (including compressor) Hard and soft lines/hoses Receiver dryer unit with mounting hardware Relays that mount on the passenger side strut tower Extra radiator fan for the drivers side Evaporator core complete with the case that it fits in Hope that the wiring for all of this is already installed in your car or you'll need that too Perhaps more but that's all I can think of off hand. It will be almost impossible IMO to do this without pulling the dash assembly completely out of the car. Might as well do the heater core at the same time. Good Luck!

I lost the reground cam on the HP EA81 rebuild at about 5k miles last November:( I just finished the EJ22 swap in to this car (guess I should have done that to start with) and it ROCKS:grin: Thanks to GD, SJR, and everyone on this site for all the info on how to do it. It has SO MUCH more power now:eek:

Had an RX trans shipped on a pallet by SAIA Motor Freight and it was about $100.00 (dollars) I think.

It's probably coming from one of the o-rings or seals at the oil pump.

Take a look at the one Ram Performance builds. Ram 115A SC

The 8 7/8 EA82 flywheel will work and is more commonly used I think. The only difference is weight about 27 lbs for the EA82 and 24 lbs for the XT6 one. I don't think you can use an EA81 flywheel for an EJ swap at all, but I could be wrong.

I am using an XT6 flywheel drilled by SJR and machined by a local shop. It is mated to a '93 EJ22 with Scotts adapter kit and a Sachs XT6 clutch kit, yes 8 7/8 x 24 spline. Trans is a (modified) 3.9 ratio RX box with center-locking diff and 23 spline stubs for EA81 front axles.

I just got done with a similar swap and a Sachs XT6 clutch kit feels great in mine. Some have said however that the only way to get a pressure plate with the full XT6 clamping force is to buy it from the dealer. I guess it comes down to how much you want to spend and how hard on it you intend to be. Just make sure the flywheel stepping correctly matches the pressure plate you choose.

Basically yes.

@GD I would think that a properly done swap might even increase the value as it brings technology to the car that is at least 10 years newer. I'm in the middle of an EJ swap right now and even when it's very well thought out and planned for it is a LOT of work to get all the small details handled properly. Not to mention every little detail adds to the $$$ of the swap.

Upon re-assembly won't they pump themselves up if they are good, or do they always have to be bled?

Was it running well before it spun a bearing? Might want to consider fixing the one you have - unless the block has a hole in it now. I can't even tell you how many EA81's I have pulled from P-N-P looking for good cores to rebuild. They are getting SO OLD now that most of the ones left out in the wild have been SEVERELY abused.

Your setting up a Weber, right? It's been 10 years since I touched a carburetor, but why would setting the idle mixture correctly make it "go pig rich at cruise"? Can't you just play with jet sizes and or metering rods to properly set the fuel mixture at cruise speeds also?

I thought that stoichiometric at 14.7:1 would give you a complete burn without lean miss.

I have a vacuum bleeder that would work great for this. You would need shop air to operate it though (they might make a hand pump version). Connect a hose to one end of the open line and drop it into a bottle of brake fluid - vacuum bleed on the other end until it runs clean. Simple one person operation - cheap and easy.