Crazyeights

Looks Great!

Sounds like it's a keeper then compared to some I have torn down looking for one to save. Nothing to loose by opening it up for further inspection.

Love the SC whine too. Not something you usually hear from a Subaru.

You could use it on the water pump I suppose, just don't use very much. I REALLY wouldn't use that on the oil pump though. You have gone to all this trouble and it's looking good, so you will want to finish it correctly. Specify exactly the type of sealer you want (by part number) and someone will get it for you. Beer Garage EJ oil pump re-seal Someone has already listed the reasons why above in another post. I personally don't really use that much RTV anymore, it does have it's applications however most of the time there are much better alternatives.

Having just been through this with EA81's be prepared to pull apart and scrap several (possibly many) junk yard motors looking for a good core to rebuild. Although they are great engines, they are getting quite old and the ones that have made it to the yards seem to have been severely abused by now. If yours still turns it's at least worth pulling it apart for a closer look. They are easy engines to rebuild and parts are not that expensive. Just my opinion - good luck!

Have you considered cloning the gen 2 style front "A" bar? It looks like you certainly have the equipment and skills. You could probably sell quite a few depending on the final price.

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I've had that happen also. Loosen the joint and slide it off the splines far enough that it doesn't hit the end of the steering shaft and rub. Try blocking up the front end of the car (wheels off the ground) and have a friend slowly turn the steering wheel lock to lock while you watch and feel for what is binding.

Look through this thread, all you need to know including pics of the real deal. Alloy pug lug thread

You should at least get adapters. 60-degree-conical-to-ball-seat Try to get the real the real Peugeot style lugs if you can.

Good point, I forgot about that detail.

In case the engine has been replaced and the Hydro stickers are gone just pull one valve cover and look for the locking tabs bent over the adjusting nuts, don't touch this style.

Both the trans and VLSD diff are 4.111.

Great info - thanks for the update!

How does the higher compression of a "Frankenmotor" build effect this problem? Is the usual lifespan of the gaskets reduced even further?

Congratulations it sounds like a nice one! Share some pics when you get a chance.

Looks Great! Can you look under the hood and tell me what the color code of that red is? Is that #947 Mica Ruby Pearl?

Goo Gone works pretty well and is generally "safe" for most applications. Goof Off is stronger and will destroy some surfaces - use with some caution on paint. Some of the graffiti removers are pretty good as well but they can also damage/remove paint. As said above WD40 is pretty good also.

'88 EA81 should be hydraulic - check for a sticker on the valve covers that says "do not adjust" to be sure.

All I can offer is that the Forester shaft also fits the EA81 and EA82 racks. It seems like those splined connections are pretty much all the same from my experience. Other than that you will probably just have to keep trying stuff until something works out. Perhaps a trip to the local junk yard to pick up a couple different styles? That's what I did and just cut up the one I liked.

Is yours a fixed length shaft? If you can find a steering shaft like the second one in this pic that will expand and contract slightly in length (section painted white) that might help some. The first one in the pic is from a '98 Forester and offers some flex, the second one is out of an EA82 Loyale and has a sliding section in the middle.

Were the fire ring failures on the 96-99 EJ25D corrected with the revised dealer MLS gaskets or is it still just as bad?

If none are local to you then call a good "smith" and ask them if the door lock on that model has a full compliment of wafers. If so, pull one and mail it to them if they aren't local. It should be much more than $20.00 to have the first key cut. The door lock cylinder will fit in a padded envelope.

The seepage you see is probably on the exhaust valves, right? You might want to lap them and see if that helps. If they were bent it should be pretty obvious - fluid (I use solvent) would be leaking at a much more rapid rate.

I already have an EJ25D block with a bad rod knock and a good pair of '93 dual port EJ22 heads. I'm tempted to split open the block and see how bad it is. Perhaps a Frankenmotor for this combo in a nice light weight body.