Crazyeights

I used an angle die grinder like this With this Roloc adapter to hold the discs I used the Scotch Brite pads like these But if I had to do it again I might choose these, it would probably take a lot less of them. I went through a bunch of the Scotch Brite pads but I didn't want to take a chance of sanding through and creating any more damage. The windshield went in this morning and it turned out really nice. The guy that put it in really new his stuff on older installs like this. I'll update with a couple more pics soon. I moved it outside today and it rained for a while right after. So far it's dry inside but I'll leave the dash out for at least one more good rain just to be sure.

Sweet, thanks for the tips!

What about using ester for oil and converting to 134? It has worked for me but I haven't done a lot of them.

I could be off base here, but I have seen several cases of ethanol flaking off zinc inside of some carbs, plugging them up and ruining them. Are you running a percentage of ethanol or E85 by chance? Have you tried propane enrichment to see if it helps? Just some off the wall thoughts. Sure do wish you good luck as this sort of thing can be maddening. Start by taking a fuel sample in a clean glass jar and examine it carefully for proper odor, color, particulates, ect.

Pulled the windshield and prepared the frame for a re-seal. More images here. Thread containing pics of EA81 windshield re-seal project

As I recall good rule of thumb for the pressures on an R12 system are 25-46 PSI low side with the compressor running and (2) x ambient outside temperature + 10 - 15% for the high side, also with the compressor running. Example if it's a 70 degree day with good air flow through the condenser and evaporator cores the high side pressure would be about 155 to 160 PSI. Both low and high side pressures will start to equalize when the compressor shuts off. There are LOTS of variables that will affect the pressures (IE outside ambient temp, CCOT vs Expansion valve type systems, ect) but at least this should give you an idea of what to look for on a working system. BTW - Yes with both valves closed.

I've pulled a few EA81's out whole (flywheel removed or I can't quite do it), a couple EJ22's by removing the heads first, and an EJ25 the same way. I'm done - don't hurt yourself, it's not worth it. IMHO make sure you have enough help;)

It's coming along slowly. I learned the hard way NEVER use cheap 5 year old masking tape:D It's well worth the few extra dollars for the good stuff. Here are some shots of progress from the last few mornings work. I haven't done this before so I am learning as I go. Although it's just rattle cans, it's still pretty rewarding to see it start to look nice. Blending the new paint in with the old sure took some trial and error. What a HUGE mess this makes, protection for your lungs should be a must too.

I know this won't help a lot but I have seen this more than once over the years on various different vehicles without explanation. Sometimes a valve gets tagged too:confused:

Now that's what I call dedication:clap:

It sounds like it's going to be a great build! I even collected a couple sets of multi-port EA81 heads for my next EA build or two, but I haven't taken it any further yet. RAM-Performance will take your stock EA81 heads and drill/weld fuel injector bungs on them, and the price isn't bad either considering. They will even do Stainless Steel valves and HP springs if needed. Don't get me wrong I loved the EA81 I built, but with as many performance mods as I did to it the stock SPFI just wasn't up to the task. I would still be driving it now but it ate the cam. Here is a picture of it just before it went in. Noisy Built EA81

The Maxima alternator should have an internal fan so I don't think you need to worry about it.

Rockauto? Works for me.

I would think twice before you go with a modified cam on an EA81 with the SPFI swap. Although it makes great power for what it is, sorting out the drive-ability issues might just drive you insane. After doing just about EVERY normally aspirated mod you can possibly do to an EA81 it still won't even come close to a stock EJ22 in my opinion.

Here is the latest update. Obviously I am not a body guy, but it shouldn't rust and it will look a lot better than it did. I'm thinking I want a glass person to put the windshield back in though. Now I need to find some 392 Lightning Silver. I read somewhere that the rope in style windshields seal better using butyl tape between the gasket and the body. Any thoughts on this? Also, does urethane sealer or anything go in between the glass and the rubber gasket?

I love this project. So many would not have taken it on. I really hope you save it. Looking forward to thread updates. Best of luck!!!

The little tang on the bottom just snaps off, it is scored to do so. You can use two without any problem.

I must be missing something obvious but isn't the Brat's E-Brake on the fronts like my GL? I think you can use a Nissan caliper if you need a rear E-Brake on the brat.

Perhaps try to dress up any burrs on the the splines at the end of the shaft with a small triangular file.

A few more shots showing the rest of the window channel. Hopefully this will do for a while. A couple last thoughts. I should go over the POR 15 with something. The directions say it is not UV safe. I also have to try and figure out how to blend this mess in with the rest of the paint so it doesn't look too bad. Painting the whole car was not part of the plan right now:D Thoughts, or criticisms?

These (drain holes?) were completely plugged up with old sealer and debris. You can see where the person that removed it last time cut the paint with a blade. It looks like this is what started some of the rust. Here it is after some cleaning up. Now, after POR 15 Marine Clean, Metal Ready Prep, and POR 15 Silver. and the other side

I am finally trying to fix this. As near as I can tell this is where the water on the passenger side floorboard was getting in. This is what it looks like with the windshield out (I managed to get it out without breaking it:D) Here is the drivers side. Not nearly as bad as I thought it would be. At least there is still some metal there.

Sorry, didn't know you needed such a large piece;) Good luck with the repairs.

Go to an office supply or thrift store and look for aluminum clipboards. They work great for small projects and repairs and are pretty inexpensive too.

I had this happen on an XT6. The radiator was badly plugged with what looked like calcium deposits. No amount of flushing would help. Pull it out and run the garden hose in one of the openings. You'll notice right away if it's plugged up.