Crazyeights

Thanks, can't wait for more pics!

I'm pretty sure the code to cut a new key for this car is stamped on the front passenger door lock cylinder. You will have to pull it to be able to see it.

Great car and thread Do you have any details on installing the XT shifter in the EA82 body? It looks great from the pic. Did it bolt in or? What console parts did you use? Thanks!

It was trans week at the local P-N-P and they had a pretty nice 01 LGT missing the engine. I ended up with the 5MT AWD and the LSD rear (I assume it's viscous). From what I have read they are most likely 4.11. The car was wrecked so they should be good. It looks like it had a NA EJ252 in it with the 8 bolt bell-housing. Now, what to build next:D

It's probably tucked away in this thread somewhere, but do you have a trans cooler? Beautiful car BTW! Good luck on the trip.

IMO this could be potentially dangerous. I would park it and fix it. First make sure the angles are acceptable for the joints to operate. Next make sure the shaft isn't bound due to being the wrong length. Over tightening the pinch bolts can also cause the joints to bind. If all this fails the joints may simply be dry of lubrication and bad. Good Luck!

You probably need to fit it after the lift is in place, tack it up, and them remove it to weld it up. Remember to wrap the U-Joints in a wet cloth to avoid damaging them from the heat. Here are some ideas of what you can prepare in advance to make it go as smoothly as possible. EA Lift steering shaft ideas

In addition to using a good assembly lube I usually pre-fill the oil filter and the oil pump through the screen. Then I crank it over with the plugs out (for higher cranking speed) until I am sure the oil pump is primed. Perhaps a dry start the first time could have caused some damage?

He says he had it ground in the first post. Well if you are sure it's internal again and not something fooling you then I am not sure what else to say. You will probably end up pulling it out again and doing some forensics on it to find out what exactly went wrong. Perhaps then you will find out what caused it. Probably better to do it before it gets any more serious. Bummer though, for sure.

Did you replace the #3 rod with a good used one or have them checked/re-sized? Was plastic-gauge used to check the rods before final assembly for clearance problems? Was the inside of the block hospital clean of any metal debris before re-assembly? Just some ideas to think about. Good Luck and please keep the thread updated with new info as you find it.

What is the factory paint code for that color of red? Looks great so far!

Like several have said it sounds like a grounding issue. I just got done with my '93 harness and swap a few months ago so it's still fairly fresh. I would start with an ECU pin-out chart. Locate EVERY ground going to the ECU and triple check that you haven't missed one, there are multiple grounds. I actually trimmed a few of the needed ones out (easy to do) and caught them with this check. I also missed one 12v small yellow wire power connection to the diode in the harness. This caused a no-start (no power to fuel pump). With these sorted my swap has been running perfectly for months now. Sounds like you're close - stay with it!

I don't know what a "T81G" is, but yes with some simple mods a 5 speed dual range is a worthwhile swap. Send a PM to Jerry (bratsrus1 on here). He makes a kit that takes care of everything and it's all bolt in.

140k on my '93 EJ22 with hydro lifters and it had 5 exhaust valves burnt beyond being able to be ground. I had the heads done and it runs great. I never did find a cause though Hmm.......

Check pin B48 on the ECU (AT/MT Identification). I think it's open for MT and grounded for AT. Same harness and ECU should work fine for either type of trans. Just about everything you need to know is in the EA2EJ.pdf file that is floating around somewhere.

Yes it should, but with the 4 - 5 speed swap you will probably need to add a flat washer between the starter and the trans case if you have problems.

Well, it's been on hold for a couple reasons. First I lost a cam lobe on my daily driver (EA81 Wagon, EA81 with SPFI, 5K on a fresh HP build, torque cam, decked block, head work, solid lifters, the works). I took a few months and just EJ swapped that car and I am VERY pleased with the results. Secondly I wanted to search out an EA82T water cooled turbo for it since the original one on this seems to be only oil cooled. Every EA82T car I found in the local yards were just BAKED beyond belief, sloppy turbo shafts, cracked housings, seized up, ect. Before I shelved this project late last year I picked up another set of pistons (exact same oversize) but 9.5 SPFI flat tops. I have all the parts to assemble the block either way (N/A high compression multiport EA81 or low compression EA81T). I need to figure out what to do about the cam also. I don't want another early cam failure with a noisy valve train and poor idle quality. I'm open to suggestions;) No, I don't have a shell for it yet. I had planned to find a hatch body for it originally.

It seems to be here for now. EA81 SPFI

I used an XT6 flywheel on a '93 EJ22 (about 24lbs compared to an EA82 at about 27lbs) with a Sachs XT6 clutch kit and a custom built RX FT4WD (3.9 gears from an XT6 trans and 23 spline stubs to run stock axles) The body is an EA81 wagon. The combo works and feels GREAT! No complaints. You could also use an EA82 flywheel machined to XT6 stepping with an XT6 clutch kit, or just machine it to EA82 specs and use the stock kit. The EA82 flywheel is about 3 or 4 pounds heavier and would probably provide a small low-end torque advantage at the expense of a little throttle response. The XT6 flywheel will probably rev up a little quicker. Which ever you choose the improvement will be so great you'll wish you had done it a long time ago! I may have missed it but I didn't notice what trans you are planning to run. With all that torque and a regular dual range it will be wheel spin like crazy trying to start up hill and or around corners in the rain. That's why I opted for FT 4WD.

There are at least (2) types of EA81 valves I am aware of. I just went through this with the EA81's I recently rebuild. I don't remember the specifics but EA81 Hydro, Solid, and EA81T may all have different lengths and or clip locations.

EA82 manifolds will also fit on an EA81.

Looks Great!

After a week of rain on and off it's dry inside for the first time in years! It looks like I can finally put half decent carpet inside it now:clap: [ATTACH]9910[/ATTACH] I'm starting to put the dash back together. I replaced the foam strips inside under the windshield and most of the worn out foam in and around the HVAC units. I also replaced the heater core and the heater control valve. I added a factory AC evap unit so I can hook up AC at a later date. I'm also going to take the time to sort out and clean up some of the wiring related to the EJ22 swap and the center diff lock (on the floor - right side) while the dash is still out. I am seriously considering moving the engine controller to the passenger side.

Another thing you can do is install a vacuum gauge and alter your driving habits to maintain the highest engine vacuum readings. They were installed as "fuel economy" gauges in the '70's and early '80's.

That's just the adjustment point. It makes very little difference, perhaps an inch or so in height and a little softer/stiffer. I think "re-clocking" the rear torsion bars involves actually removing them from each side and rotating them slightly to a different position and re-installing them. I haven't actually done it but I know someone here has. Look up the torsion bar R & I procedure in the FSM for an idea of how to do it.