Crazyeights

It should be a standard 6mm x 1.0 pitch bolt. I'm sure I have one I can send you but you should be able to pick it up at the local hardware or parts store. Good Job being patient and getting it apart!

You could try soaking with a good penetrating oil like PB Blaster or something then keep twisting and pulling on it. The last time I had an EA81 oil pump stuck that badly I ended up cracking the housing getting it off. Luckily I already had a new one to put on.

On my 01 OBW I pulled the lower 4 with a door panel tool (small fork shaped pry bar) and the uppers are just snap in. Use the door panel tool again (CAREFULLY) as a pry bar if it helps. Your 08 might be different and/or you may break something if you are not careful. As always YMMV Good Luck!

The replicas don't come plated. Ya, they rust but so does the rest of my car:grin: Seriously though, I'm just going to wait for a little more surface rust to develop and coat them with some POR-15 or something.

The adapters do work as they were on my wagon for a while before I bought a set of the replica pug lugs on here (which are really nice btw). I can't speak for how safe they are though.

This thread is a good read if your fixing up a Brat. Brumby Runner Project

Thanks Again. There isn't that much difference between the A and B sizes anyway. For what I am doing they will be fine.

Many Thanks! That confirms what my info said. Do they list a different number for "A" size?

I built 1 solid lifter EA81 already with 1600 pistons (higher compression) and a delta cam and it turned out VERY well with GD's SPFI. Since that build I found a really nice low mileage EA81 Hydro block and I might want to do a second one. From what I have read the EA82 SPFI pistons are the ones to get for higher compression (slightly better than the 1600 ones). The Hydro block has already been diamond-honed and pressure washed and the machinist said STD size pistons will be fine.

Several search's yielded a lot of information about pistons that can be used in EA81 blocks. I didn't see the actual factory part number for the EA82 SPFI (9.5 STD Bore) pistons listed. My parts manual lists one number for all four pistons 1989 SPFI/MPI and different LH and RH numbers for a 1990 loyale with SPFI. Which part numbers are correct for use in an EA81 block? Thanks

If you can find the low pressure switch (usually on or near the accumulator/dryer) and it's 2 pin try bypassing it and see if the compressor comes on. If it's a 4 pin style you probably should look at the wiring diagram first.

Check the fuses first . I know it's obvious but there is one that will do exactly that when it's blown.

No, will not fit at all.

I have recently had both EA81 and EA71 cases apart and the cams were completely different.

Thanks! Will put up some pics later today.

My wife and I just sold our XT6 and brought home a 2001 Outback Wagon tonight! It has an EJ252 and a 5 speed manual. It has about 138k no signs of leakage anywhere inside under the hood or underneath. It and runs and drives like new. It's green with tan interior never smoked in, ect! Pretty excited about this one I hope it ends up being one of the better engines. Now I just have the fixed up old '83 Wagon and this newer one.

Bought my Silver '83 Wagon 10 years ago, sold it, bought it back again. The running gear is finally almost finished just now. You stopped in to see it at my work, remember? Good Luck buying back your Brat. Can't wait to see some pics!

There should be an idle air adjustment screw recessed on the passenger side front area near the top of the throttle body that you can try backing out a little bit.

Ya, I've been through the lash several times and it still sounds like they are too noisy. Right now they are at .006 and .008 and it sounds like .020 to me. I'll take my time and go through it one more time making sure to adhere to the FSM line-up procedure. I can live with it like it is if this is normal. I'll just have to get new speakers, a Flowmaster, and start having some serious fun! [uPDATE] Thanks to backwoodsboy's advice I finally have the valve clatter down to a reasonable level. I ended up at .003 and .004 hot and although I can still hear them they are no longer a bother. Now if I could just nail down where to set the timing for best idle quality and maximum power it will be a really sweet build. I think I may have done something wrong when I converted the distributor or made the SPFI harness. I have to run well over 30 degrees base timing (with the jumper connected at idle) to get any power out of it.

Thanks! My best analogy is it sounds like a built solid lifter Air Cooled VW motor, and it sure has a LOT more power than the old one did. I was just wanting to hear from someone with a similar build to see if it's normal. So far It has about 100 miles on it, good oil pressure and temp, ect.

Yes, I have used the search function:grin: After tearing down about 3 cores I finally selected a candidate to freshen up. EA81 solid lifter block, here are some details. Cylinders honed and block halves power-washed, crank and rods checked, new STD bearings, (crank polished) NOS EA71 1600 pistons and pins, Hastings Rings, Delta 252 solid lifter cam grind (they did the lifters too), GD's SPFI conversion with port matched intake manifold, new SOA oil pump, and Jerry Demoss ported heads with 3 angle grind .020 off of each. It's in, runs GREAT and makes lots more power than the old stock EA81. My only concern is the amount of what sounds like valve train noise compared to the old tired solid lifter engine that came out. I have double checked that the rocker assemblies are on the correct sides and that aluminum push rods were used and triple checked the clearance (Delta said I can run .006/.008) and it's still pretty noisy. Looking through my spare parts it looks as if there might be 2 different length aluminum push rods - 1 knurled stripe versus 2 stripes [EDIT] Found in the FSM, I bet I used the shorter ones. Will swap them and re-adjust I checked and I did have the correct length push rods installed. I guess I must not be used to a solid lifter engine without 200k worth of sludge inside for sound insulation:grin: GD - Note the IAC spacer I made and the EGR block off plate where the dummy EGR/Purge solenoids are mounted BTW Xoomer this is the core out of your old Brat. The one I traded you the canopy for! Thanks for any thoughts

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Pull the engine forward. IMO much easier than pulling the transmission back, especially if you don't have a rack.

Try another power transistor (mounted on the coil bracket). I have seen these fail a few times recently on SPFI vehicles.

Both EA71 and EA81 pistons are flat top. The EA71 pistons are about .020" taller from the pin to the top. So yes, the EA81 pistons should slightly reduce the compression ratio in your application.