scoobiedubie

Best blackwall M/S tire that I have seen for the money is a Primewell PS850.

The coolant consumption and the white spark plug most likely means that your cylinder head is cracked between the intake and exhaust valves on #3. You should also check the cylinder head pressure. Loose cylinder head bolts cause coolant to leak into the cylinder and get vaporized out the exhaust. That causes the engine to run rough. For starters, you should replace the cylinder head gaskets. When reinstalling the bolts, be carefull to put the long bolts in the holes that have shoulders, and short bolts in the holes with no shoulders. Otherwise you strip out the threads in the block. Also make shure that there is absolutely no oil on the cylinder head bolts, washers, on the threads or in the threads inside the block. Brake cleaner in a spray can and an air compressor, is used is clean all of this. If you can find a cylinder head with no cracks, that would be useful.

Clutch transmissions last forever with new clutch plates and throwout bearing installed from time to time. Auto transmissions are toast after 150,000+ miles and require major $ to fix.

Get another cam tower at the junk yard. You can replace a cam tower faster than you can fix a stripped hole that you can never put enough tension on to stop the oil leakage.

Replace the O2 sensor, then if that doesn't help, replace the alternator.

It is not the quality of oil filter that was the problem. My point is, the diameter of the oil filter is too large. It did not even touch the auxiliary fan assembly when I installed it. But the engine moves around a bit on bumpy roads, and that caused the strongback on the assembly to puncture the oil filter.

It was a Napa Gold 1361 oil filter that suffered premature failure due to insufficient clearance to the auxiliary fan assembly.

Napa sold me it. It was not Bosch. I already tossed it.

Many of the auto parts supply stores no longer stock the oil filters that match the Subaru oil filter dimensions. They will sell you a fatter and probably shorter oil filter. The danger with these fatter oil filters is that they may rub against the back of the auxiliary fan frame, resulting in sudden explosive oil spray from the oil filter, and engine damage if this remains unnoticed. Mine blew in only 3000 miles.

Check the compression. You probably need new cylinder head gaskets and intake manifold gaskets, and the valves ground. Also, new plugs, rotor and distributor cap. A GL10 transmission will not work because it is a 3.7 gear ratio and you have a 3.9 gear ratio drive system. Once that auto tranny goes out, the car is totaled. Then it is only worth what you can get for the parts.

A weak alternator does not show up with any trouble codes. A weak alternator will cause an insufficient spark to start the car.

Problem was not solved. A new alternator did solve most of the remaining bogging.

If also the use of any auxiliary feature such as electric windows, lights, cigarette lighter, also causes the engine to bogg, then you might need a new alternator.

The clicking it probably just the 4WD engaging and disengaging. The LSD is not adjustable with other than the oil ingredients, and is always working to keep both tires turning at the same speed until a sufficient amount of torque occurs to cause that engagement to slip. If you have LSD, then a metal tag on the rear differential will say LSD. When you do not have 4WD engaged, you can hear the rear differential pop when you start a turn on a dry parking lot.

Low humidity.

The a/c compressor runs year round. In the winter, it helps suck the moisture out of the air so than dry warm air is blown onto the windshield in the defrost mode. If no compressor, then you are blowing warm moist air onto the windshield and the defrost has essentially been crippled.

Look for a large mouse nest between the a/c radiator and the engine radiator.

You failed to describe how to clean out the heat exchanger under the dash. Mice love that area.

Don't forget to put a dab of sealant over the hole in the top of the water pump housing. It will make your water pump last longer. Much longer.

The coolant leak could be the cylinder head gaskets, or the intake gaskets. Coolant leaks can go from bad to really bad in a big hurry. Are the plugs also white from burning coolant? If it runs rough and looses coolant, that points more towards the intake gaskets. Cylinder head gaskets can go out in 30,000 miles. Water pumps can go bad in 20,000 miles if there is no extra gasket maker applied to the hole on top of the water pump, that then keeps dirt and grime out of the innards of the water pump. You would then have to know exactly when you replaced the above mentioned items, before you headed out cross country playing russian roulette with your subbie. Always carry an extra water pump, extra coolant and all the tools to change the pump beneath an overpass in the middle of nowhere. Cylinder head bolts get loose and can be tightened somewhat in order to cut down on coolant leakage. But when the gaskets go bad, not even tightening bolts is going to help that. Also carry and extra distributor and belts. You appear to need to do some work, before driving across the country.

Subaru makes a wrench with two prongs that insert into holes on the sprocket. You could take the old belt and wrap it around the sprocket in order to get a good grip on it, and turn it that way.

86 EA82 distributors burn out.

^ This guy isn't showing you the wax plugs that he puts into ears, every time he goes for a drive. Just kidding. But try talking on a cell phone in this Subaru. You will end up saying "what?" a lot. lol

The motors last about 250,000 miles. Used motors are easy to find for cheap.

I just chopped enough of it off with a grinder, in order to get the socket on.