ruparts

it would not matter, thats if ALL the rx wiring to be kept in use with the new motor swap.

I think that is a go, use all the wiring from your rx on the doner motor, probably should use the complete intake assembly, and any accessories, and the rx distributor just to be safe on compatability. do the rear main and the rear vent cover gasket so you don't have to go back in. don't forget the water hose under the turbo, its a real pain to do later. mount the turbo up on the motor, all the pipes hoses and all and install in car all assembled. might need to have the down pipe loose to aid in some jiggle room.

NO ! none of the impreza or legacy trans is the same, and won't bolt up. only dl, gl, gl10, loyale, any 3 spd auto, turbo, or not, if you use a turbo trans it has a higher hwy gearing but will be a little slower to accelerate, and the trans axle stubs are different spline than what you have now, but you then use the turbo axles or 4x4 axles on it.

I bought one in dallas 2 yrs back,( its still doing pretty good), it had no egr port in the head, the boss was there but not drilled through. also had a 2 pin white plastic knock sensor, US is usually green 1 pin, except 85-86. mine was from an xt cause the harness exited in the center rear and had the flat belt grooved pulleys. also the bell housing part was different and would not fit, and the timing hole was in a slightly different location. thats some of the differences.

Thanks Rob, i guess thats a good reason he's trying to sell it, or not to buy. mods please delete this thread if you like.

Hi, OK, Thanks, it is brand new so play should be no, but if its tooo big i can't use it. offshore knockoff, IDK , ad says TBO brand and type TDO6, 20g thats it. if anyone is interested in it , dallas craigslist 4-10-10 search turbo in auto parts. thanks for your replys

hi, i can get a brand new 20g turbo the guy is asking 300, is that a good deal for this unit? it is described as a TBO brand- TDO6- 20g, thats all in the ad for it. its brand new but no warranty. are these water and oil cooled and is it a good unit for daily use, how hard to adapt to a ea motor? Thanks

hi, do you mean that all ea-82 cars without a/c do not have a fan mounted to the water pump? i thought it was, all had the mechanical fan on the water pump, and a/c had an extra electric one.

hi, according to the 88 manual PP= 500kg/1103lb, surface 228 od, 147 id. the disc= od 225, id 150, thick 3.5(0.138in) 25 spline x 25.2 dia.(0.992in). for reference the 1.8 4x4 clutch has 350kg/772lb/ the turbo xt clutch had 400kg/882lb, same size specs on the disc, for both, but the springs in the disc are set up in a different configuration on the xt6 disc, than the 1.8 4x4 & turbo-4 disc.

Hi, i know what you need but don't have one. info i bought a jdm turbo imported motor for a car and the motor had that white one, has 2pins yes? point is the motor was newer than 86 i think, jdm might use that type more years. if you can go to an importer for jdm subaru engines (nissan had some common pieces with subaru ? they might have one they would sell . they might be common and cheap in japan- ebay there. someone here probably has one if they see the post. hang in there. i would not advise to wire in the other type, if i had an 86 manual set i could help more but 87 on is different in US.

+1 on check all the battery cable connections and check the fusible links, pull em out and back in , they get corroded sometimes , check any main wiring harness's bulkhead connections going into the car, a battery thats about to go out might do this.

Hi, subaru part number is: 11832AA001, fits all of those. you can make one using the cover for a pattern. oil vapor collects in the bottom corner and leaks, i have found several original ones that the screws were like finger tight only. i don't like those little cork pos gaskets that some supply, they leak soon enough, use a good gasket material and sealer.

hi, you will find more xt6 folks at subaruxt.com . but briefly, the clutch cable likely needs a small adjustment , and check the hill holder cable system also. the idle is close to right for cold start, but warm up is slow, try a OEM thermostat, the original unit has a 2stage opening and the warm up period is noticably quicker. you need to check the codes to find the ****** engine light problem. if you know how its easy, if not you'll need some help there, info available in the search over there. ecm is under the package tray in the trunk, and the connectors. i would advise staying away from repair shops unless they really know about these cars, and xt6 uses special steering fluid. lol

Hi, i was thinking the plugs to check the codes were black, and located right by the green ones, they are black my 87 for sure. idk if they changed later but look for a black pair.

hi, no, sorry . some how i was thinking you were dealing with a 2wd , yes the rear is same for both 4wd.

Hi, i like what you did to the hood and all, but looking at those last pics my thought was, you gotta do the grill, so the carbon carries down to the bumper, thats my 3 cents, sure nice looking ride!

You need to put the throttle stop back to its orig position if you moved it, that is factory set to avoid problems with binding and not sticking, then the throttle position switch needs to be set to acheve certain specs for that to work right. the coolent sensor is very likely to cause these symptoms, but i lean toward the cat being the bad, or the O2 sensor, before having made any adjustments. adjustments are a bad idea on fi systems , they usually need parts or sensor connections cleaned to restore original operation levels, seldom adjustments needed if it has not been "worked on". if you can get a digital meter and test the O2 sensor lead it should read between .2 and .9 volt dc (less than 1 volt dc) with motor and exhaust hot, the reading should vary between those readings as if it is hunting for the right place, if it does not the o2 sensor is bad and that will sure mess with the emissions readings. i have taken cars with the same problems you described and put a new cat or o2 sensor and went back and passed fine.

Hi, Two things, first does the accelerator cable have slack in it when at idle? if its too tight , it cannot return all the way to idle. the dash pot you mentioned is not the idle adj, it is on the throttle body, rear side facing up, just a screw head in a recess, that is the warm idle speed adj, fast idle is a real small screw going horizontal on the back side of throttle body, it is for the fast idle, as in a/c on , not the cold start to warm up speed, i think that is computer controlled and not adjustable.

Hi , the wiring for the manual trans is going to be different from your car, the doner wiring might need to splice in for the reverse lights and nutral safety switch. not sure if the driveshaft carrier bearing mounts are in the auto trans body, and you need to use the complete suspension crossmember from the rear doner cause it has the diff mount in the middle. you did the right thing getting the whole car!

Hi, its for the key dinger, a sensor in the ign switch lets you know you have the key in the switch, those wires connect to the tiny switch sensor at the opening of the ign switch. if they hacked the switch they broke it most likely.

hi, you are going to have to take the rears off and repair or replace the cylinders, you have to be able to bleed the air. lot of guys put discs in back if the parts available, if not now, those cylinders are cheep get two and be on the road.

hi, the injectors fire , 1 every 180 degrees of crank rotation, just like the spark plugs, they may be powered in pairs, idk , but the spfi has the 1 injector, and it actually works like a carburetor basically, although it does have a timed firing and duration as needed by load and rpm.

Hi, the spfi wiring built into the car is the only system that it will run . if you want to put a mpfi system you will need to also add "ALL" the wiring and computer required to run a mpfi car. it could be added to your car as a stand alone system,, but you are wanting to do a job that is certainly not an easy one and you also will need to change the cylinder heads on the engine since the spyder intake won't fit spfi heads. the wiring for this could be a endless nightmare, easiest would be to add all the mpfi required wiring from a doner car as a stand alone system. the performance is better for the mpfi but not to the extent of, worth all that work, if the car you have was a mpfi already, and had the necessary wiring to support a mpFI system then it would be a piece o cake to do. if you must iwould say go with an ej swap, at least after the wiring was finished you would have a good performance increase, not like 8 hp.

hi, it will come on with a/c off , if the coolant temp gets high enough to close the switch on the radiator, not overheated. that is the way mine seems to work.

hi, i have used needle nose pliars to turn them , open to 1 tip in each notch of the piston and turn it, if they are really stuck this might not work. but if you just squeeze it it will destroy the emergency brake parts.