Snowman

Correction: the EA71 is a 1.6L engine Helpful hint of the day: EJ-series engines, which came in the Legacy, Impreza, and pretty much everything after that, are easier to identify because the numbers following the EJ indicate the displacement. For example, the EJ22 is a 2.2L, the EJ25 is a 2.5L, etc. Other terminology: d/r = dual range transmission ER27 = engine offered in the XT6 model. This is an EA82 with two additional cylinders, making it a flat-six. EG33 = engine offered in the SVX. This is an EJ22 with two additional cylinders and is also a flat-six. EA82T is the turbo version of the EA82 EA81T is the turbo version of the EA81 EJ20G is the turbo engine offered in the WRX (many people mistakenly call it the EJ20T, which is not an actual engine) EJ22T is the turbo engine offered in the Legacy Turbo for a few years in the early nineties gen 1 typically refers to any wagon, brat, etc made previous to 1980, however the brat was produced through 81 in that body style. These primarily came with the EA71 engine, but earlier models had the EA63 and some later models had the EA81. gen 2 refers to wagon from 80-84, brats from 82-87, and hatches from 80-89. These predominantly had the EA81 engine with some exceptions. Some people call the EA82 cars "gen 3". This refers to wagons from 85-94, coupes from 85 to whenever they discontinued (89? 90?), and sedans from 85-94. The legacy has had four distinct generations, often called gen 1,2, 3, and 4. Gen 1 is from 89-94, gen 2 from 95-99, gen 3 from 2000-2004, and gen 4 from 2005 on. The EJ25 engine has had 2 basic generations. Gen 1 is from 97-99, and was plagued by headgasket (commonly abbreviated HG on here) problems. Gen is 2000 on and the HG problems were reduced in this engine. 4EAT stands for 4 speed electronic automatic transmission 3AT stands for 3 speed automatic transmission (this one is a piece of junk btw) I/C stands for intercooler BOV and BPV stand for blow off valve and bypass valve, respectively the TD04 is the turbo used on the WRX, which is commonly modified to fit onto the EA82T engine SPFI stands for Single Point Fuel Injection. This system was offered on the EA82 from 85-94, with a significant change between 86 and 87. MPFI stand for Multi Point Fuel Injection. This is the setup used on EA82T and EA81T engines, as well as all the EJ engines (compeletely different system on the EJ's, but is still called MPFI). I really don't want to go into all the abbreviations for the sensors used by the EFI systems, as there are a ton of them.

Try the PCV valve first...very common problem on these cars. Subaru engines are usually pretty easy on rings, so I kinda doubt that it would need a shortblock, although that's possible if the HG's were leaking badly and a bunch of water was getting into the cylinders. A compression test would tell you quite definitively if you need a shortblock. Was this at a dealer or an independant shop?

That's correct. The flywheel has to be SEVERELY damaged to make it non-reusable. I highly doubt yours is that bad, unless there are tremendous grinding noises or anything like that while your clutch is slipping.

If the clutch has been slipped very badly, you'll have to get the flywheel resurfaced, which costs like $60. It's really not that big of a deal.

Depending on the outside temp, it can make more of a difference than that. Last year while driving 65 or so in -20 to -30 degree weather, I stopped for gas, checked the oil, and I was able to wipe the dipstick clean with my fingers...didn't feel hot at all.

Yes, the stock SPFI system has been turboed, but only with a few psi. The SPFI heads do not limit the pressure you could run, they limit flow severely. The SPFI/carb heads use one port for both cylinders, while the turbo/mpfi heads use two. I doubt you could get 150 hp without at least changing over to turbo heads and fuel management, or just swapping in an EA82T engine. The stock EA82T is 115 hp, and it breathes significantly better than a turboed SPFI engine would. If you want power and reliability, I'd swap in an EJ22 from a Legacy. 140hp stock.

That looks awesome! Does it hold the throttle in a set position, or do you have to keep pressure on it? I give that mod 1000 Voodoo Engineering points:lol: .

The salesman is probably on crack (like most of the Subaru dealer people). He most likely told you that as a CYA (cover your...) measure, in case you did roll start it and something bad happened. The ONLY thing that I can think of that might cause trouble is that the ECM would not be recieving the "start" signal while the engine is turning, but I can't imagine that would keep it from starting. It might take a little longer, but it should still start. There's only one way to find out really. Just roll the car down a little hill in 4th gear, pop the clutch, and see what happens.

I don't think the ECVT has any way for you to manually select lower gears. Not having driven or worked on one myself, I'm not really an authority, but from what I've heard, they're really not all that bad, but if it ever breaks you're screwed trying to find parts. However, you could always just swap to a 5 speed if the tranny pukes on you. I'd say go for it if the car's in good shape. For $500, it's hard to go wrong.

Yup, I was able to tap into the existing VSS just fine. Gotta love the old soobies...just like Legos, everything fits together however you want it. Thanks for your help guys. Of course, I finished the conversion about 10 months ago, drove it for several thousand miles, and have since converted to EJ power, but thanks nonetheless!

If you're not too attached to your d/r tranny, it's really not much work to put the EJ tranny in. The VSS is also in the tranny, so you could avoid having to deal with that issue as well. To run the EJ tranny, you need to get your driveshaft modified so it's the correct length, swap out the rear end for one with the same ratio as the new tranny, and weld the EJ tranny mounts to your tranny crossmember. Since your car has an EA82T in it, the front axles will mate right up. In case you wanted to know, the speedo cable should screw right into the EJ tranny.

Yes, the EA81 has shorter axles, so you'd have get custom ones made or if you can, swap the cups from the legacy or EA82T axles onto the EA81 axles. Even though the EJ cars have larger tires, the top gear ratio is actually taller than in the EA82 and EA81, because the EJ engines have more torque and can handle taller gears. There has been some debate about the strength of the d/r 4 speed vs d/r 5 speed. Some people have better luck with the 4, others with the 5. Does anybody know for sure which one is stronger?

It's really not that hard to swap over to SPFI. A good bit of wiring, but if you've got a complete donor car, it's not that bad. The conversion manual is located here, and it should help you decide if it's something you want to do. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/article.php?a=61

It's always sad to see them go, but Subarus never really die...parts of them live on in other Subarus. I don't even want to think about letting my beloved Roxy go. She's NEVER getting sold. Until the body completely rusts away or gets smashed beyond repair, I'll swap in other engines, transmissions, axles, subframes, etc. After that, every part that can come off will be removed and stored for later use in other cars.

I think a brat with a lumber rack like that would look awesome!

From what I have read, you'll need to swap over to turbo heads, intake manifold, and fuel/spark management to really get much out of it. The SPFI system can handle some boost, but only a few PSI, before it can't keep up with the fuel requirements. Several people on the board have run turbo heads on carbed or SPFI blocks with good results. I think an intercooler would be a necessity for running SPFI pistons, since they're the highest compression ones offered in this engine.

Your CV axles will mate up to the EA-series d/r 5 speed. The tranny is a different length than your existing one, so the driveshaft will have to be altered. I think the ratios are a little closer on the 5 speed than the 4 speed, and I can't remember if the low range reduction is any different. Somebody here should know that, but I can look it up when I get home tonight if nobody's replied by then.

LOL, just like the electrons in a diesel rig are green, whereas the electrons in a gas rig are blue. (Sorry, old joke in the auto-diesel department at UAA:rolleyes: .)

I can't remember the exact amounts, but i've paid between $125 and $150 for LSD units from board members. (edrach and blackbart rule! )

Yeah, sounds like a stuck thermostat to me. Either get one from the dealer or get a Stant "Superstat". I've used both and they're about the same quality, which is way better than anything else.

Crossmember: Austin did it somehow...may have had to cut a notch in the crossmember or bend the exhaust pipe to fit. My EA82 requires some clearancing to fit properly. Flywheel: There should be no reason why you couldn't put the d/r 4 speed behind it. With either flywheel, you'll have to get it redrilled to match the EJ's bolt pattern. The reason most people use the EA82 flywheel is so they can put the d/r 5 speed in as well. EJ25: I really don't know. Somebody on here surely does, or just get out your measuring tape:rolleyes: . EJ tranny: The final drive ratio is most likely different, so you'd have to run the rear diff from the donor car as well. The transmission is not the same length, so you'd have to get your driveshaft customized. You can use either your driveshaft or the EJ's (just make up a mount for the carrier bearing). The front axles have a different spline count. It may be possible to take the cups off of either a Legacy or potentially an EA82T car, since they're both 25 spline instead of your current 23, and put them onto your axles. If that's not possible, you'd have to get custom axles made. Finally, you'll have to weld the EJ transmission mounts up to your transmission crossmember.

You changed the thermoswitch for the electric fan. The sender unit for the gauge on the dash is on the intake manifold near the thermostat housing and has one yellow wire going to it. On fuel injected models, there is a sensor for the ECM very close to the unit for the gauge. This one has two wires going to it.

Hmm...that's weird (see my post above about my 92-89 compatibility). I got all my parts from Canada, so maybe they used the same connectors and everything on the Canuck cars throughout those years but changed it in the US.

I've usually just gone to NAPA or wherever, but you might try thepartsbin.com. Being kinda heavy, shipping might offset any reduction in price though. Another thing to consider is getting a kevlar clutch disk. They have similar holding power to regular ones, but it's virtually impossible to ruin the disk from slipping under heavy load...just let it cool off and it's good as new. A decent clutch rebuilder should be able to make one up for you, and the guy I've talked to said it would cost an extra $100 or so, which I see as being worth it.

Very nice indeed! The only comment I'd have is that it looks like it might get hung up while reversing. You might want to bevel the edges or bend it up a tad in the rear. Just a thought.