Snowman

There was one at WCSS6 that had a Mercedes supercharger on it.

Make sure the cooling system has been taken care of, as that's the biggest killer of turbo soobs. Generally rust is the biggest determinining factor for value of subarus. If the car has been taken care of and has no rust, $1500-$2000 is not unreasonable in most markets. If there is any rust, especially any that could become structural at some point, the value drops very quickly.

The best, and probably least time consuming, way would be to swap the entire wiring harness from the cab forward, as well as the entire dash assembly. The fuel tank doesn't need swapping, just the pump itself. Don't forget that if you put in the RX tranny, you'll need to put the rear diff in too because it's a different ratio (and has an LSD!). Another minor issue is fitting the turbo exhaust. My understanding is that it involves notching a crossmember. Not too much to worry about. Ask SubaruStyles about it, I think his wagon started out w/SPFI and it now has an RX drivetrain in it.

Fusible links. What was your charging voltage reading when the car ran?

Did the SPFI system come out of a known running car? Also, try plugging together the green diagnostic connector and see what happens.

Mine are all on relays, but without the high-beam function you mentioned. Instead, I've got a master switch not far from my reach that can turn all of them off at once for oncoming traffic.

Sorry to hear that. Like 85sub4wd said, double check that the ECM case is grounded (i.e. use a meter to check for continuity). Also, double check that ALL of the power supplies are connected. Is the fuel pump or check engine light turning on at all? That will tell you if the ECM is hooked up and working properly.

Check NAPA? I saw various spacers up on the wall there. Don't know if they'd have anything that fits a 4X140, but it's worth a shot.

All the pinouts are in the SPFI conversion manual in the USRM.

Very nice! Welcome to the club!

Mechanically, there were no significant changes. I poured over the SPFI electrical schematics and fuel system diagrams when I was doing the conversion, and although the 1990's cars were listed separately, the differences were things like having automatic shoulder belts.

Here's what I found when doing the SPFI conversion on my wagon. I asked about the VSS before converting to see if I needed it, and I believe it was Garner, who put an EA82T in his Brat, that had not connected it up, and it worked fine for him. Now, that's an MPFI fuel system, and I don't know if the VSS plays exactly the same role in that setup. I have noticed in my car that when the vehicle is moving, it kicks the idle up a bit. I would check out the IAC valve (is that the correct acronymn?). Unplug it and see what happens. Also, check the TPS. If I remember correctly, this one has an idle switch in it, and if that's not functioning properly, it could create this very problem.

So, I've already got the shortblock assembled for my EA82T that's going into the RX. However, I've had a change of plans for this car and would like to switch to running a carbed shortblock instead (MORE POWER:brow: !). My question is simple: Can I use the EA82T rings and bearings in the EA82 block, since I've already got them, or are there differences in the bottom end that necessitate different bearings and rings? Thanks for your input.

Hrm, do you have a volt/ohm meter? The next step is to start checking stuff with one of those to see if you're getting good power and if the ground circuit has minimal resistance. If you don't have a meter, you can get cheap ones that work fine for stuff like this for around $20. Probably the most worthwhile tool you'll ever buy.

What I want to know is where you got 4:11 gears for an EA82 tranny!

Where do they do that at? Sounds like a blast! I'm thinking about running the subaru I just got for $50 in the rallycross next weekend. The entry fee is almost twice what I paid for the car!

When you put them back together, try to get the shoes as close to touching the drums as possible while still being able to get the drums back on.

Do both headlights do this, or is it just one?Start with the simple stuff....check the ground connections first as I think that's the most likely culprit. Just look around at the wiring going to the lights to see if anything looks old, corroded, or otherwise problematic.

rofl

Yup, jack it on the rear diff and the crossmember that the rear of the skid plate bolts to. Those points can take some abuse, trust me:brow: .

They're called Strut-Quadrant Adjusters. At least that's the fancy name for them. I'm not sure exactly when the moment of adjustment occurs, but I believe that they adjust when you put the brakes on while backing up. I've done rear brakes on two EA82's, and both times, I put it together with the adjustment set so the drums would just fit over the shoes, and they adjusted themselves normally with no help from me. As long as the adjusters are in good shape and move freely, they should do everything by themselves.

I dunno about differences between the spfi, mpfi and turbo fuel systems, but the flapper-maf systems and the hotwire-maf systems used different distys. Try to get everything from a single car so you know that it's all the same.

In the spirit of keeping up the "Napoleon Dynamite brat" discussion, "Sweet!"

For dirt cheap mods, ditch the stock muffler and remove the air intake silencer.

The only bad thing I've heard about Lucas is that it promotes aeration of the oil. They showed a video in one of my classes of two differentials running inside a clear container. One had oil treated with Lucas, and the other had regular oil. After not very long, the one with Lucas in it had tons of air in the oil. Aeration is bad for gears and bearings. My philosophy is that one should just get better oil rather than pouring extra stuff in. I've been running full synthetic 75w-90 in my tranny and rear end for three years, and it shifts much better than before, especially when it's cold out. The stuff is also still just as clear as the day it went in.