Snowman

BS. There is no way that a simple fuel additive will give you that much more power.

I'm not positive about the earlier models, but all carbed EA82s have fuel return lines. I used the stock one and haven't had any problems yet.

Another vote for Mobil 1 here.

I have one thing to say:

I can see the warning labels already once this goes awry:drunk: .

That's a nice setup Suberdave. Sorry, I don't have pics of mine as it's no longer on the car.

Back when I had my Unifilter on, I used some old heater ducting to scoop air from under the front bumper and ran it into the engine compartment through that hole in the fender that the stock intake runs through. This dumped cold air onto the filter at speed, without incurring the problems that come with a true ram-air or cold-air intake (namely, sucking water).

Please correct me if I'm wrong.... An anaerobic sealant is ideal for metal to metal mating like case halves and cam covers. That's what they use on big diesels too. As I mentioned, Permatex Anaerobic Sealant has worked great for me so far, and it's what we use here at UAA on everything like that. Isn't Ultra Grey a non-anaerobic sealant, ie it sets up when exposed to air, unlike the red stuff that doesn't set up except when it's on a mating surface and oxygen is unavailable? It would seem that an anaerobic sealant would be best because if any extra gets into, say the oil drain passages for the front and rear main bearings on an EA82, it remains soft and gets washed away by the oil, rather than restricting the passage.

You could also mount a pusher fan in front of the radiator. Summitracing.com has a wide selection of electric fans. I just ordered a fan and an adjustable controller for my car.

Actually, those style squirters came on non-turbo soobs as well. I don't know which models, but I DO know that 1986 carbed 4wd wagons had them!

I bet they'd get a kick out of my car!

I've had great luck just using anaerobic sealant. But you have piqued my interist....

It sits nicely in the battery tray if you take the battery out.

Well, I think my alt lost a diode, so I'll probably do this convesion soon. The voltage bounces a little when I'm idling with my lights on and the altenator is right at the max it can put out at that rpm. If you run a larger wire straight to the battery from the alternator, you won't have to worry about the wiring harness. Nothing that draws power through the factory harness will draw any more with that alternator than it did before. Just be sure to run the power supplies for any add-ons straight to the battery too.

Something to consider: In plumbing hydraulic and air lines, a 90 degree elbow is equivalent to adding 7 to 9 feet of tubing. Keeping the hoses short by making sharp bends may be doing more harm than good.

Well, it certainly will provide colder air than you would get underhood, which will help performance. I don't know how much an actual ram air effect would take place though. Also, there should be less dust particles higher up, which is a nice side benefit.

Optima Red Top.

Thanks for the link!

The EJ22 or EJ18 would both be excellent candidates. They are both a lot of work and expense though. Another option to consider is an SPFI EA82. Unless you get into DEEP water and mud, the EA82 isn't problematic, and with the EFI, drivability will be greatly improved. This option is significantly less costly and involves less work. Of course, you could also just get a rebuilt ea81 from CCR, possibly with a cam and hi-comp pistons that would do quite nicely.

For those of you who have installed a snorkel on your subaru, have you ever had any trouble with snow, icing up, or getting water down it? I don't see too many snorkels on any vehicles up here and I'm wondering if the climactic conditions have anything to do with it. Your thoughts please.

Thanks for the offer Matt. I'm actually looking to aquire an FSM set for each model designation (EA71 through EJ 25). I'm starting with the old ones because they will probably get rarer and harder to find. I just need to know how the manual is set up. I.E. one big book, several small ones, or whatever. BTW Matt: Sorry to hijack my own thread, but are you still thinking about driving to WCSS7? I've decided for sure that I'm taking Roxanne down rather than driving that other car up at that time, and a caravan would be sweet.

I assume you're running open covers then? I've done alternator swaps, fuel pump swaps, and electrical work at about 20 below, as that's the coldest it gets over here. Represent!

PK has been working on one for a while now, and the Aussies have had it for years. I don't know if it's in production here yet. When I installed the kit in my 86 wagon, the instructions were straightforward but rather minimalistic. You do need a basic understanding of your vehicle but by no means do you need to be a factory-trained Subaru expert. With the assistance of the board, there shouldn't be any problems that you can't overcome.

Never heard of anybody doing that, but maybe. What is the actual wire made out of? My Accel wires don't look like copper.

I've been looking at several online used book stores at FSMs for various cars, and I came across a couple for EA81 and EA71 cars. The description is virtually nonexistent, so I'm wondering how the manuals are arranged? Are there several separate books like the one I've got for my 86, or is it just one big book? Most of the ones I've found are selling a single book, but give no indication if it's one of a set or which one. One of them said that it's the "engine and body" book? Help please. Also, has anybody tried the FSM's on CD for the newer cars? Are they pretty slick or should I look for paper copies?