Setright

Blah..blah...actually predict wheelspin...blah..blah :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

Right on the money, subyluvr!

I speak Danish which is near enough. Before your man takes the Volvo up the hill, he stress that BOTH are automatic transmission and the are fitted with the exact same tyres. At the end he says "Why is this so? Because Volvo chose a cheap system." A rep from the the Danish importer actually shamed the Volvo too. Similar setup, he pulled a CARAVAN up a muddy hill, and the Volvo was able to follow - even though it spun the front wheels. So he upped the ante..drove half way up and stopped the Subaru, set off again without problems. Volvo got stuck....LOL !

The intake is the area below the windscreen and wipers. You can remove the entire plastic shroud and fit your own net there. I think they had these from the factory, but it may have rotted away. The side vents can be pulled out, the ones in the center of the dash cannot. If there are leaves stuck in there switch the fan to full blast, that'll press the leaves all the way up to the vent. You can pull them out with a pair of tweezers.

Sounds right, nipper. The Bosch system is like that. Later Hitachi systems aren't all in components and can require replacement of the entire unit

Are you sure it's a fuel problem? Try adjusting the mixture. We used to detach the vacuum hose from the carb when we set the idle mixture. It's much easier with the hose off. Could be worth dismantling and clean the carb, before searching for a "new" one.

Hejsa ! Prøv at se om din tomgangsventil er koblet til. Det vil sige om slangen der går fra luftfilteret til ventil er forbundet. Uden denne vil motoren ikke holde tomgang. Loose translation: IAC hose, is it connected?

The hard points are the same. So if you replace the springs and dampers, you'll be sorted.

Yes, have the torque wrench calibrated if you can. Also, whilst 100 ft/lbs isn't vicious over-torque, over tightening can also lead to lost wheels if you stress the studs to far! They'll snap suddenly under load. Remember that the wheel/hub undergoes thousands of heat cycles. (Of course the main reason for the low torque range is to protect the soft alloy wheels.)

I disagree. Worn pads cannot cause a low pedal, the fluid fills the brake lines to compensate. Worn brake shoes can cause extra pedal movement, if the automatic adjustment isn't working. You could remove the drums and give the adjustment mechanism a click or two more to push the shoes outward. The drum should fit snugly over the shoes, but not drag on them. Start there, then flush. Or flush anyway, since it's probably a while since the last time. Yes, DOT 4 is good in these systems. However, if there's DOT 3 in there now, you might want to continue using that, unless you want to bleed the system two or three times - if you have ABS. Flush, drive and brake hard enough to activate ABS. Flush, drive and brake hard enough.... This will ensure that you also replace the fluid in the ABS pump.

Local dealer mentioned they'd have electric folding door mirrors. Nice.

2006 Forester XT is the new 2.5, with 230 hp. There is plenty of pull from 2000rpm, in the lower gears, but you need 3000rpm to really get moving.

Eh? The big difference is that one-pot uses a 260mm disc and the two pots work on 277mm.

Well, the air enters after passing over your bonnet...just below the wipers.

Looking double-hard there Texan You guys should ship your rides over here and join me for a drive on the Nürburgring (Just been there again...fourth time)

I have the same engine/drivetrain in my 2006 Forester XT. Slightly lumpy idle is normal. You can feel and sense it, but the car doesn't shake. The hydraulic clutch takes getting used to.. I run Euro Octane 95...don't know what that translates into Stateside, but "premium" is required

Yep, that's what I was thinking

It's a bit hit-and-miss. Sometimes replacing the bolts will do, but look for cracks on the shield. If there are any, try to strap it down with "jubilee clips" - metal bands with screw locks. (No idea what they are called across the pond.) Welding can also be successful....get the car up on a lift and inspect.

Yes, it's normal. The rears "seem" disconnected, they can spin independently.

Ultimately, those marks shouldn't be there. On the other hand, they will not compromise the crankcase integrity. What's the mileage? A bit of thrust bearing wear allowing this kind of contact is nothing to be ashamed of on a high mileage engine, like over 120k. The EJ engines are pretty tight in terms of length, so a small amount of thrust bearing wear will show up like this pretty soon.

Of course, you have to ask yourself: Do I want clean wheels? Or do I want to participate in track activity??? :D :D

So, let me get this straight? You're looking for more understeer?

Here here! Thermo must be Genuine.

Thanks for reporting back

A large amount of brake dust comes from the disc/rotor being worn away. Tiny bits of hot steel. If a pad is very abrasive - like most semi-race pads - you are likely to get a lot of dust.