[HTi]Johnson

It couldn';t have been anyone on this board, we all know that you just push it back on it's wheels and continue on. Or at least, push it back on the wheels so you fluids don't leak out of the PCV system. Should leave a note on it with "Interested in purchasing your car (Insert phone number)" Wait, I notice that your signature states you own a red loyale...do you have some explaining to do?

That plastigauge is what the machine shop will probably use. For clearances between parts.

When I reinstall my oil pump...do I use any sealant with the new gaskets...if so, where?

Hello all. Sorry I don't have pics but I was wondering if there is supposed to be play in the oil pump shaft. I know side to side is bad but what about in and out...there's like 3/16th inch of play? Thanks, Justin Johnson

Hello. I heard that the sound you are hearing is the turbo back spooling. This is caused by the turbo spooling then the throttle plate closing all the pressure causes the trubo to try to spin backwards...but the exhaust is pushing the turbine one way and the boost is pushing against it. Which seems to be a bad thing. As soon as you install a Blow off valve (BOV) or bypass valve (BPV)(both are the same), which are commonly found on intercoolers, it will allow the air to 'Bypass' the throttle body and go back into the intake.

HOLY S BATMAN that's a huge intercooler. Nice setup..very clean

I have to give you guys some props. You didn't have an engine stand..that must have been annoying working on the engine while it dangled from a chain. And those manuals...makes me wonder how many people just threw in the towel when they did the timing to the book...and it didn't start. Good Job and welcome to the board!! I like the comment about the "G thang"

I asked the same question, a while back. DOJ = DOuble offset joint. The ends of the axle that all the movement occurs in. (holds the bearings)

I had this same problem. What I did as a band-aid was take out one of the front axles and put a outter stub in place(the end of the axle with the threads) so I could drive it until I got the replacement tranny. You have to drive it in 4wd which would power only the rear wheels. The tranny made a rattling noise but it didn't bind up the car, after I took the front axle out.

Hey. I taking a guess that your car is a 1980 Subaru. Welcome aboard.

Spinning a cup refers to the DOJs (DOuble offset joints, right?)... there are spots in them that the bearings of the axle shaft go into...like three channels...so the cup can "grip" the axle and transfer the rotation from the tranny stub to the wheels...they make it so they can slide in and out to make up for the up and down travel of the wheel. I hope somebody can explain this better. But, if you spun a cup...that means the channels in the DOJ have stripped and it will just spin around the axle... but I read your post again and I don't think that is your problem.

WOuld it bind up and make the car lurch and jump with loud clicks and metallic noises?

Does it do that when you aren't in 4wd? If so, grab the inner DOJ (axle cup) on the front differential and see if you can wiggle it up and down side to side(both sides)...if it moves more than you think it should it's probably the diff bearings or you could pull a front axle and put it in gear (2wd only) and give it a little gas. Hear the same noise? I had the same problem, I swapped the tranny out and then messed with the little bearing caps that have that keeper on it that's bolted to the tranny. I spun them off and wiggled the diff...then put the races back on the bearings...put the caps on and turned them until they are snug and put the keepers on. How tight should I have put those on? But I haven't got to try the tranny in a car yet, so I have no way to test to see if I fixed it.

Check all your axles for any signs of tears. You could have spun a cup, that pops out every now and then. Also, check your rear differential(diff). It should be a 3.900 Gear Ratio. There is a sticker on the back of the diff, it may have mud on it, so you will have to wipe it off. I had a car with similar problems...it was an 3.700 Gear Ratio Automatic Tranny with a 3.9 rear diff. It would make a clunk when I gave it gas, but I didn't realize that it had a 3.9 rear diff until the automatic tranny fried and I converted to a manual. Keep us up to date.

Hah this must be the season for the TOD (Tick of Death[light emphasis on death]). Ok, if it is coming from one side of your engine and the area of one cylinder, I'd bet it's a lifter. And you should change your oil to some cheap and light weight kind and substitute a quart of oil for a quart of marvel's mystery oil and run it fairly hard, not too hard for a while, the sound should go away. What this does is clear up and sludge or debris that might be blocking the oil ports. Once the sound goes away, do an oil change again with your normal oil. If it is coming from both sides of the engine, I'd say it's an oil pump problem...but check your oil filter, it may have collapsed (cheap ones do that). You can replace the oil pump seals, but when you are in there, check for any scaring of the aluminum from the brass(i think it's brass) gear. Keep us updated.

That's awesome...maybe you should market those?

My car is taking a break right now, I need to get a Oil Pressure guage to see if my oil pressure is too low... if it is I'll get an Oil Pump gasket kit. When I take the pump off, how do I know if it is ok, usuable?

Yeah where is your car?

Somwhere on the board someone was talking about putting a gear or somthing on the stub and running a hydraulic pump or something for accessories.

The oil isn't over 1200 miles old...I try to change it every month.

Yeah, i need to get an OIl Pressure guage installed :-\, it sounds like it is coming from the left (driver's) side. So, if I don't have a guage, how could I tell if it is lack of pressure or sticky hvlas?

Yeah I just developed the TOD on they way home. (1987 GL-10 Turbo), it's pretty bad, and I know that MMO or Seafoam can fix it, but the question is: Does the TOD make your Knock Sensor sense knock and retard the timing? Update: Hello. I tried all the usual things to get the TOD to go away. Oil change, oil chage with lihgter weight with ATF and another with Marvel's Mystery Oil (MMO). Except for replacing the oil pump gasket (the mickey mouse one). I replaced it and drove for about 2 miles and it was gone. Just thought I'd update in case someone did a search...now they have a solution.

I think I didn't torque my wheels down. I worked on it on a Saturday and drove all day Sunday, then monday, it fell off. Made for a great Monday.

Yeah a couple weeks ago, my same wheel came off and went under a big truck towing a backho(e) excavator. Needless to say the wheel is toast. My car landed on the balljoin stub and completely ground it down to the control arm. Pretty much welded it to the arm. So I put my spare on and continued to work. So It could be your ball joint...just got so fubar'd it failed. Or your strut rod (trailing rod) could have failed...pics would be nice. But if no pics are available, I'd say look at your ball joint stub first...see if it didn't come out of the arm Then if it didn't, see if your control arm is bent...but I think you just cam out of the stub. Tell us what you find.

What kind of O2 sensor should I get? I checked out a couple parts stores...they have a lot of "Universal" ones, what should I look for?