snowstormer

thanks for the suggestion hondasucks. i will try that on saturday. never thought of that. yea jwx, 4000 rpm powershifts are fun, till the dang thing blows her cookies!

thanks for the suggestions northwet and Shawn- you just had to say guvner didnt ya? yup- thats your old white coupe Shawn. funny how these rigs get around... kinda like some of your best friends girlfriends when i was a young lad. she lives again. everything works, and ready to roll. except for the nagging tranny problem. i want to exhaust all the options before pulling it out and putting in a 5spd... thanks for the replies.

ok hear me out before you say "governor" still dinkin with the 83 coupe tranny. will shift into all gears but not till you wind it up to 4000 rpms. have tried 3 known good modulator valves and have tried adjusting them. have tried 2 known good governor assemblies that have worked fine in other transmissions. the gov that came out of the car was not apple cored or anything. all govs and mods act the same... 4000 rpm shift point. fluid is full and good. am i missing something obvious here? any replies are welcome. thank you.

if you have some mechanical experience, i think you could do a ozified lift kit. can you say... pull a motor? put in a clutch? pull a tranny? if you can do any of that, you can do a lift kit in my opinion. once you look at the kit, then crawl under and look at the car, it kind of comes together. i did one last summer, did not have a clue about it beforehand. took me a few days, well worth the effort.

also a good way to test your blower motor. if it does not work wired right up to the battery- its probably bad.

hey torrxx- i did the same thing on a car last winter also. did not want to resort to the ghetto fix when giving advice. i thought i was the only one that did that stuff. its a good way to go- you can have heat, drive the car and try to fix the problem when you get a chance.

someone please correct me on this but if you are looking for the relay... i think it is to the left of the steering wheel as you sit in the driver seat, up under the dash, there is a bracket there with like 4 relays in it... i think one of those is for the blower motor. if the resistors are bad i think the motor would still work on the number 4 speed, so could be the relay. again, this is just from my own experience, not trying to lead you astray. maybe someone else will chime in that knows more. this guy could use some heat, its gettin cold out.

im pretty sure the resistor pack is seperate. there are 3 screws that hold in the blower motor. the resistor pack is kinda back by the back screw closest to the firewall. there are 2 small screws that hold it in, i think. and there is a plug that plugs into it. hope that helps.

thanks for the replies. i have the complete 89 5spd car, so should have all the parts. i have done 2- 5 speed swaps into auto cars so i am well versed in the labor part. ugghh. as for what happened to the motor? i do not know, it was blown when i got it. i really wish i had a digital cam so i could take a pic of it. there is a hole in the top of the block about the size of a childs fist. you can see the crank. one connecting rod is no longer connected. its an unconnecting rod. ha ha. the crank is gouged way deep and almost looks bent. the con rod is visably way bent. oil was white from water. basically the block is shot. could have good heads maybe. guess what though? the dang thing STILL RAN! i drove it up on my trailer, and drove it off when i got home. its a neat little car. drove it a few miles after i got the motor in. everything works.... except the tranny. if the tranny does not fix with the gov or mod. then in goes the 5spd. i think that car would be more fun to drive with a stick anyway. as for a 4wd conversion? that would be really cool. i gotta think about it... hey, i do have all winter, and they are mighty long up here... thanks again for the swap info.

so will these trannys swap? car is an 83 ea81 coupe 2WD automatic. i may want to put a 5 spd tranny in from a 89 ea82 2wd gl wagon. OR... car is the same- but put a 4spd d/r 4wd tranny in. i guess the main thing i am wondering about are the axles... 2wd ea81 axles same as 2wd ea82 axles or the same as 4spd d/r 4wd axles? this is shawn w's old white coupe via ananda, with a blown motor. put another ea81 in it and got it running good. turns out the tranny wont shift into 3rd. i am gonna try the modulator and gov. fix this weekend, but if that does not work then will do a tranny swap. i have acess to both trannys so am looking at the best way to go... any advice? thank you

swapped the bellhousing over per Qman. went great. i hope to drop the motor in tommorrow. thank you everyone for the replies. have a good one.

thanks to everyone for the replies! the board saves the day again!

hey archemtis- thanks for the reply. will a ea81 intake manifold bolt onto a ea 82 block???

well i guess i learned something new today the hard way. i thought all ea81 blocks were the same. i took a bad ea81 out of an 83 coupe, was going to throw in a ea81 from a 82 brat[i think]. coupe was an auto. brat block was a 4 speed. both blocks are stamped ea81. took off the flywheel to install the auto flex-plate... and the flex plate will not physically clear the block. upon closer inspection the block is physically different. so i am kinda stuck. anyone ever put a ea82 into an 83 2wd coupe? i have a couple of those motors laying around... the flexplate fits on those motors...

i have had 2 cars with 3at trannys that have had the 3.90 rear axle stock. made it nice when doing the d/r swap. did not have to change the diff. they both tached out about 4000 at 65mph. so yours sounds right to me.

oh, and generally speaking- if the car is carbed, it generally wont have an o2 sensor,the o2 sensor would usually be used with fuel injection which is generally controlled by a computer of some kind. a carbed car is basically all mechanical- generally no computer controlling a mixture- so no need for an o2 sensor for a computer to read. remember- i said generally speaking- i think there were some soobs with electronic feedback carbs, with an o2 sensor and a computer. sold generally in ca. and other emissioned controlled states in the 1980s. who knows where those cars are now, could be anywhere. does that make any sense?

is the car carbed? if yes it prob. does not have an o2 sensor. pull of the top of the air cleaner and start it up. the choke should be closed when it is cold. then as the car warms up it should slowly open until it is open all the way. if it does not open all the way, this would cause an overly rich condition and poor gas mileage. just a thought....

you guys must have some good hooch up there!

im sorry, i spaced out your board name. wanted to say thanks for the motor and tranny i got from you last week. it was good to meet you. too bad the weather was so crappy. would have liked to bs for a while. also, do you still have the parts brat? i might be lookin for a couple more items....

we had a winter up here-1996-97 i think. many nights of -35. plugged in soob worked fine. one night got to around -50. coldest i have ever seen it. still dont believe my two thermometers. otheres locally had it also... but the point being- my soob started up reluctantly. plugged in with block heater. made some weird noises, let it run in neutral 10 minutes or so. put it into gear, pressed on gas, it would not move, pressed gas, finally almost to floor[auto tranny] car started to creep forward. problem was- the back wheels would not turn on the hard packed snow, they just slid. wheel bearing grease must have been too stiff. or rear diff- had 80w 90 in it. non-syn. after about a half mile or so, they started to turn. dont know how this pertains to you, just thought i would throw it out there. car was an 86 gl- carb. i was impressed that it still ran. many newer cars were dead along the hwy.

like the alleyboy says- the whole pedal box comes out as one unit, do not take it apart. there are 4 bolts holding it to the firewall- then 1 or 2 bolts kinda way on top in front with a funny bracket , kinda connected to a wiring harness. disconnect the rod that goes from the brake pedal to the master cylinder through the firewall. you can leave the clutch cable connected to the box if you want, feed it through the firewall as you pull out the pedal box. it is a real pain to get out, but it is possible to get it out without removing the steering coluum, just loosen it. it takes a lot of twisting and turning. however, it should be real easy to get it out if you want to take out the coluum. the only thing you may have to remove from the pedal box is the gas pedal, if i remember correctly. others will pipe in if you need more info.

try taking the plastic console pcs. off and see if it will shift then. i had the same thing on my 88 when i was done with my lift. just had to trim a very minor amount off the inside of the console.

i have 4 of the threaded block heaters installed in ea82 blocks. pretty much any auto parts store[napa-etc.] should be able to get them for you. mine cost between 28-32 bucks each. there is a threaded plug on the bottom of the passenger side head that takes a 14mm hex [allen] head tool. the heaters are easy to install, i would put some sealer on the threads just for grins. there can be ONE problem... sometimes the plug in the block is darn near impossible to get out. steel plug alum block, been there since new, whatever. they can be really stuck. i had 2 come out easy. i had one that took a 1/2 breaker bar and 2 foot piece of pipe, and only came out after running the motor till hot, then it broke loose. [different expansion rates of steel and alum i guess] i had one that was a horrible nightmare to get out- breaker bar, pipe on breaker bar, finally stripped the hex head. put in bigger and bigger ez-outs... finally ended up drilling out the whole plug with a step bit.saved the threads in the block, thank goodness. block heaters are the way to go in my opinion if you have day after day of below zero weather like we get here. sometimes we can go the month of january and never get above zero f. even during the day, with nightly lows in the -30 f. range. with a block heater, your car will always start, barring any other problems.

go get em sweet!

its cool to be nice to animals and all.... but you gotta kill it! or it will wreck your car! it will piss in your car. it will crap in your car. it will eat all parts of your car. it will make you sick if you are unlucky. rodents piss and crap everywhere they walk. they do not know any better. you have to kill it. if they are in the woods... fine leave them alone. if they are in your house or your car... you have to kill it! sorry for the rant my neighbor had mice get into his camper over the winter. he did not know it. they RUINED his camper. there were about 50 in there by spring. they ruined his camper! i had mice get into my pump house over the summer 2 years ago. they ate all the insulation, they ate some of the wiring. they basically ruined it and i had to rewire it. kill the mouse- any way you can. do not wait. i appreciate your humaneness... but kill the mouse. there are millions of them in the woods. kill the mouse.... is someone coming with a straightjacket yet???