superpoo93

Cool!! Glad hear the beast is back up. I have to give credit where credit is due. NorthWet, you are the man!! I had the same thing happen to me a few months back, and I found a post where you helped another member. I thank all of you who continue to give your knowledge and advise, so we can in turn do the same.

Start small.... Have you checked the distributor rotor? Sometimes the set screw can back out and will be laying inside. Pull cap And see if rotor will turn by hand or can be pulled off, if so... screw has backed out. If not the case turn engine over with the cap off and see if rotor turns. If the rotor does not turn check timing belt on drivers side.

Try here, they sale polyurethane bushings. www.obtusa.com talk to Amir (914) 302-2431. Or email him sales@obtusa.com. He was very knowledgeable, owned older Subaru's. I purchased bushings for my Loyale a few years back. Good pricing

Wow!! It just happened to me... I was racking my brain!!! I checked everything, and kept thinking... It has to be something simple. Could not believe that the screw was sitting right in front of my eyes. Can you say LockTite?? i dont want that to happen again. I just want to thank you all!!

I ended up , disconnecting it for now till I have time to trace the wires more... and or get another actuator.

I have checked voltage and I'm getting voltage at both positions at the actuator connector, so I checked the voltage at kick panel and have correct voltage at openclosed position not both like at the actuator. Does that mean there is a short? Or is the actuator bad??

93 Loyale: Ok power lock on passenger side has not been working for about 6mo..... Just now my wife asks my what is your car doing? I'm like Waht are u talking about?? Doing? As I walk up I hear this like WEIRD sound!! ! Open my driver side door, and passenger side door lock is cycling OpenClose at a million miles an hour. No other lock is infected , iIt will stop only when locked from drivers door...soon as I unlock it starts again.

Oh just thought of something. How many miles on your timing belt/pulleys?? I'm all about not going in to repair, two or three times when you can it in one shot. If you change timing set, replace everything pulley/belt. Noel

I think checking the oil pressure would be worth it, as long as it does not cost you a mint at a shop. I used Lucas oil stabilizer and GTX 20-50 (summer) and 20-40 in Winter. It helped a little, to quite it down but sometimes it would fade in and out. Make sure your changing your oil regular too.

Before my timing belt broke, my lifters were ticking. I replaced water pum, and oil pump while I was in there but never touched the HLA's. it keeped on ticking along until I found old liters and sent them off to Mizpah to have them rebuilt. Installed them..no more ticking. Long story short, why not do it all while you have it torn apart and just do it one time. I would pull old HLA's from a junk yard donor and send them to Mizpah to be rebuilt. I think it costs like $48. $48 compared to spending hours doing it again and again. Fix everything in one shot. That is my opinion , for what it's worth. Edit: just one thing, when I suggested pulling HLA' s from a donor car it was to save down time. Pull you own and you are not going to be able drive it till you get HLA's back from Mizpah....:-/ just saying. Time - Time ticking in my head

I had the up/down idle for a long time. Cleaned the IAC but still had bad idle. Found reconditioned one on Ebay for $50, slapped it on and no more idle issues....purrrrr. As for the duct work changing also has not done it since.

I had same type of idle issues w/ up and down idle when stopped an high idle when first started. I was not even using my A/C or heater when stopped because idle would be up/down or so high or so low that it would not charge battery right. Clean your IAC first if that does not work, check EBAY for a good deal. I just bought a reconditioned one for $50 W/ free shipping. It works just like it should mow... There are posts here on the subject sometimes hard to find. Hope this helps

FYI, here is a great source., they were very knowledgable. Give it a shot Outback Technolgies USA they have Polyurethane Suspension Bushings http://obtusa.com/ Amir (914) 302-2431 sales@obtusa.com Here are some EA82 part numbers for ref, the pricing is about 2years old and please double check part numbers with them. Ea82 control arm kit SPF1691K. $35+shipping Trailing arm complete bushing kit SPF1144K $89+ shipping Shipping rates were not bad.

FYI, here is a great source. Outback Technolgies USA they have Polyurethane Suspension Bushings http://obtusa.com/ Here are some part numbers for ref, the pricing is about 2years old and please double check part numbers with them. Ea82 control arm kit SPF1691K. $35+shipping Trailing arm complete bushing kit SPF1144K $89+ shipping

This sounds familiar... Think this happened to me once. Sounds like a vacuum leak, try to spray water or some non-flamable liquid at the base of the intake on both sides where it connects to the heads. I had leak there once, you will notice a big change in engine speed if it is.

I did not even think of the cone washer...duh. Torqued to 150lbs+. originally. Thanks for giving your advise, I let you know what I found in a couple days.

I have read post after post, and have not found what I'm looking for. Changed the rear bearing on my 93 Loyale 4WD wagon (drum brakes). Had shop remove/install bearings. I only installed rear spindle, used a piece of pipe to keep outer bearing from moving and gently tappped with rubber mallot, till it felt solid. mounted everything back, grabbed tire top and bottom, still have play. Help:banghead:

Yeah, that was monster good price you paid for those.... I wish. I just thought, that people would like to know, that even though expensive, they are readily available. Thanks If you ever want to get get rid of your rims, hit me up.

Check out this link, I have called them and they have Pugs in stock. Kind of $$$, they would be like new. http://www.wheelcollision.com/peu1.htm

Yep, that's what i do, leave the key in position.. where lights are on till fan stops. and yes Loyale have main drive fan and Aux fan.Ok, my question has been answered. Just wanted to make sure, I dont burn her up. Thanks all for the help.

Should it not continue to run when key is off, to cool water down? All cars I have had in past and presently, run after car is off..if water temp is high enough. My car hardly gets past mid range, it just make nervous to just turn it off and walk away. Vegablade, you have yours running all the time?? See, mine was originaly wired that way by the past owner, but during the winter it was hardly getting operating temp.

That's crazy!! You could fry an engine, especially out here in Vegas. Thanks for the help, I'll looking into getting wired up.

I have a 93 Loyale 4wd Wagon. My Aux cooling fan works great when key is on, but the ignition has to be on for it to work. Its a pain, when I drive anywhere.... I have leave it on till it shuts off. What kind of wiring issue do, I have? The previous owner had been lazy and just looped the wiring at the sensor to have the fan on all the time. I have since fixed that part .

This is interesting. I have the same problem, but no noise, or significant wear, other than a little choppy because the shocks are bad. Mine sags on driver side also. The alignment shop that I went to said, that there was no adjustment in the rear. I would be interested, to know if you have problems with front also. Other than camber adjustment.

Awesome, I would like to see it one day. Yea the the Flat-4 guys are all into the NEW Subies, but I have ran into a lot that do appreciate the older ones. I was thinking of going to the IN-n-OUT (FLAT-4) this thurs and hang out for awhile, it would be nice to see another oldie.