l75eya

5,600 rpm wow. For how long? Sheesh. I imagine in a situation such as that, the motor is probably modified in some way and also very well maintained.

Edit: double post. Stupid cell phone.

I would have them turned before resorting to replacing things. Typically you can get a set turned pretty cheap. Wild you're having these issues. Bummer but I'm sure you'll get it.

I've come across those types of people myself. Unbelievably devoid of sensible thought. But still polite. Haha, glad you got to drive it some. With the clunk, check your mounts and your control arm bushings. See if anything is loose, has some play. If your ej22 has single exhaust ports on each head it is an interference motor. If it has dual ports on each head (4 exhaust ports total) it's non interference.

(the subtitle "safe highway speeds" in the title pertains to engine rpm, not what one's opinion on what speeds are considered safe to travel. This thread isn't about driving habits or opinions on that matter, it is about information regarding gear ratios and engine reliability, maintainance, and engine speed sustainability) Over the years it's come to my attention on many occasions that a lot of people are put off by the (relatively) archaic gearing ea82 body cars have. I can't tell you how many posts I've seen on here of people questioning the high RPMS their car is turning at highway speeds (especially those with the 3 speed automatic transmission) I wanted to make this thread to document certain things I know through my own personal experience to be true, as well as to qualm any fears some people may have in regards to their vehicle and its ability to "Keep up with traffic" on today's highways. I've been driving ea82 vehicles for about 10 years now, and in those 10 years I've driven a good variety of their different formats: A 93 3 speed FWD SPFI Loyale I drove around for a good 6 years or so, both on the highway and in city driving. I took it to Canada and back from New Jersey An 87 dual range 4WD 5 speed carby GL I drove around for 3 years, both on the highway and in city driving. I drove that car across the country four times. An 86 push button 4WD 3 speed MPFI turbo GL-10 that is a current project I have that I have driven on the highway a few times and around town every now and then a 93 5 speed FWD SPFI Loyale that is currently my daily driver. I drive this car on the highway a-LOT, and around town a-LOT. In fact I drive this car....a-LOT. I've put 16,xxx on it over the past 10 months and 700+ miles on it just this past weekend. I am also an automotive mechanic and I am the sole person who has maintained each and every one of the above cars while they were owned by me. The key component to driving any of these old subarus around so much is to have confidence in them, and, knowing that I am the person responsible for their upkeep, that confidence is something I have never lacked, and I drive my cars accordingly. That being said; Regarding the 3 speed automatic cars, yes, you can do 70 mph in it. It's not going to explode. At least not unless it was going to for some reason or another anyway. I recommend that you stay on top of your oil changes (I use mobil 1 conventional 10/30 or 10/40 oil + filters year round in all my vehicles), and that you are confident in the condition of your timing belts and components. The issue here is that at 70 mph you're going to be running that lil ea82 at about 4,100 RPM. Now that's no big deal to the short stroke boxer motor itself (these engines are used in airplanes where they run high RPM for hours), but it's your alternator, your waterpump, and your timing belts and their pulleys and idlers that may complain here. If you just picked up a 92 Loyale with 38,000 miles on it that means it has slept a lot in it's 25 year existence. The bearings in that original alternator aren't going to like being subjected to you running the motor at 4,000 rpm for long. Neither is that super dried out and old timing belt. This goes for any other car, but the 3 speeds especially because of how poorly they are geared for highway use. So basically what I'm saying is that if you plan on using your 3 speed car on the highway, please make sure important components such as those I've mentioned are in good shape, and/or have spares at the ready. Also make sure the transmission fluid is in decent condition and the differential oil is as well. My real world experience with the 3 speed car on the highway is well over 10,000 miles. I drove that 3 speed loyale from NJ to Toronto doing 65-70 mph basically the whole way. It took a long time, but that was hours and hours and hours of sustained 4,000-ish rpms. And it'll get about 25 mpg at those speeds. I've also peaked a 3 speed auto at 100 mph @ 6,400 rpms. Out of curiosity. I've also driven a 3 speed auto car at speeds in excess of 75 mph for over 3 hours straight. Moving on to the 5 speed dual range 2 things; It is awesome. Please check your gear oil. I burned mine up because I drove it across the country twice without following my own advice. That being said it had no problem running 65, 70, 75, 80, 85 mph but my god the thing was gutless climbing those mountains out there. 3rd gear with my foot to the floor barely maintaining 55. This car taught me the lessons about low mile cars. I bought this 87 GL in 2012 and it only had 46,000 miles on it. I slapped plates on it, loaded it with people and stuff and took it from NJ to Nevada twice. The first trip I had 2 things happen; the water pump gave up the ghost as soon as my 5,000+ mile trip concluded and I was back in my hometown, and the 28 year old gear oil had (unbeknownst to me) turned to water and I fried the trans. I took it across the country again with fresh gear oil a second time and had no trouble, other than noise. Risky, but it did it. I still have that trans, and it still worked when I pulled it, just made lots of noise. I'm not even going to touch on the 3 speed push button in the turbo car because I don't drive it much. All I can say is that it seems to be geared differently than the FWD naturally aspirated car. 4,000 rpm is about 73 or so mph in it, whereas that would be 68-70mph in the FWD car. Last, and most extensively researched but surely not least is the FWD 5 speed in my daily driver Loyale. I have numbers due to recent curiosity: (All numbers are while in 5th gear) 3,450 rpm - 78 MPH 3,600 rpm - 80 MPH 3,900 rpm - 86 MPH 4,200 rpm - 89 MPH 4,500 rpm - 95 MPH 4,900 rpm - 98 MPH 4,950 rpm - 100 MPH 5,100 rpm - 106 MPH I find myself typically cruising at about 80-85 mph and my ea82 is humming along comfortably in the 3,600 - 3,900 rpm range. Right where the old 3 speed auto I used to drive would comfortably sit while I jostled along at 65 hahaha I find this convenient because anytime I notice I'm around 4,000 rpm, I know I'm going a bit *too* fast. I honestly find myself looking at the tach more than the speedometer. Once you get past that 4,500 rpm threshold though, two things happen: You lose the ability to (relatively) easily maintain speed (You can hold 95 without having to have your foot to the floor the entire time) and, you really start pushing the limits of your motor. I've run these engines at over 5,000 rpm for a couple hours and nothing catastrophic occurred, but I really would advise against anything over 4,500. Not to mention, there's no more power up there anyway. It all starts around 4,000 rpm and just rapidly drops off over 4,500. So to recap; 4,000 rpm = OK 4,500 rpm = Still OK! Over 4,500 rpm = Not smart. Make sure your timing belts and pulleys are good Maintain your vehicle HAVE GOOD TIRES (don't go flying around on dry-rotted tires from 1996) And every bit of information I shared in this post is entirely based on my personal experiences with various ea82 subaru vehicles over the course of the past decade. Your mileage very well may vary (And it probably will as the FSM shows a good bit of gearing variation through the 1985-1994 ea82 run).

True, I should have worded that differently. What I actually did was capture screenshots from video I took with a mounted camera (of which my car has 3. Including one that maps my route and tracks my speed) And it's 24 years old. And meticulously maintained. The only thing that concerns me about high speeds is anything exceeding the teeny tiny lil 13 inch tires' speed rating, which I do not do (S - 112 mph). Though I do agree that it is not a very safe care in the event of an accident... I guess one thing you alluded to is right though, driving out here is a little different than there. You can be doing 95 and still be getting flashed at by the guy tailgating you because he was going 105. Most other cars are doing 80-85. Hell, I was stuck behind a dump-truck (dump-truck!) at 80-85mph for a little while on my way back home. Not trying to make anything sound cool, not doing anything out of the ordinary, and not stupidly holding a cell phone in my hand while beaming down the highway, so rest assured. Not trying to be a smart-rump roast, either, as I mentioned above, I'm respectfully stating that the information you shared above is incorrect, at least in the case of mine and any other cars with the same configuration as mine. I became intrigued with the lack of accurate information and have now decided to share data regarding certain speeds and their associated engine RPM, which I'll post tomorrow once I've got all the screenshots I want to use. Cheers and safe travels. /threadjack

I must respectfully claim that information Incorrect. 95 is not even crossing 5,000 rpms yet. You're only just approaching 5,000 rpms at 100! And it has nothing to do with the state I was in or anything to do with geographical location at all? It's just the way I drive. 4,000 rpm is 90 mph. This is with a 93 fwd 5 speed transmission on 175-70-13 (stock) tires. I just put 600+ miles on this car over the past three days. On the latest leg (still have another 220 miles to do tomorrow) I was on my way back from Hershey, PA to Manhattan. Made that trip in 2 hours doing 95 (4,200-ish rpm) most of the way. I don't understand everybody talking about how they have trouble hitting 90 or 100 mph in their 5 speed cars. The 3 speed, yes, I absolutely understand because 100 mph in a 3at is 6,300 rpm. You're running out of gear and head-flow at that point and anything over 100 in a 3at is pretty much noisy, time consuming, and dangerous for your engine. Maybe it's your altitude out there? But that would only apply to the carbed vehicles... I have no real trouble hitting 100 mph in my car, and I've actually peaked it at 110 a few times. It can maintain 100 ok but at that point it would be pushing 5k. 4,500 rpm is about the most I'm comfortable with my motor turning for any extended period of time. I've run an ea82 at 5k for 3 hours straight before, and it took it without complaint, but I wouldn't want to do it on the reg, and not with the car I rely on every day. And it is for these experiences mentioned above that I'm intrigued on other people's rotor screw backing out. Because I know, compared to most others, I really run my car pretty hard. And I've never had that issue before. Perhaps the threads have been stretched due to an overtorqued set-screw previously and now you it won't torque down properly. Riveting is sure to solve the problem though!!! Tomorrow I will snap pictures at various speeds on my way back to Pennsylvania for reference and informational purposes and create an appropriate thread for it. Sorry for the thread-jack Mr. Loyale! I hope Uno and the GL are both doing good for you!

My cars are SPFI, optical pickup distributor with a set screw rotor.

I've never had that happen to my cars. And I run the piss out of them. 6k-7k shifts, 95mph on the highway, I mean that little guy spins pretty good in my daily and it's never come out. I wonder why other people have issues with theirs backing out.

Thank you, Tom. That's exactly what I was remembering from my old GL. This Loyale I have does not have any of that, just the 12mm and 10mm nut on the end.

No, this was definitely EA82. I *may* be thinking of the hill holder setup though, but this was on my old 1987 5 speed GL. It had an assortment of washers on a cable with a fork on the trans, but like I said, that may have been the hill holder.

Where to start, where to start? I took the calmasters off the tin can because they were rubbing too much and swapped them with the EA81 alloys I had put on the GL-10 (fwd car + weak springs + lots of stuff in trunk = no good. Now I know calmasters have a different offset to stock rims and stick out a little bit more): I think they look more at home on the blue GL-10 than the Tin Can anyway, and with the air suspension on the GL-10, the body of the car never sits low enough to rub the wheels. At least when the suspension is pumped up, the second picture shows the car slammed after sitting a few days. I swapped off the stock 93 black bumper for the painted front bumper from my old 87 GL (damn, I miss that car) I put new rotors and pads on it. Finally. I changed the oil. Finally. I adjusted the clutch free-play and re-aimed the headlights and I replaced the worn out zipties holding the 85-86 grille in with brand NEW zipties. I love this car. Got it 2 years ago at 97,xxx miles and just turned 116,000 the other day. So far aside from general maintenance, I've put an alternator in it. Did I mention that I love this car?

Hey, it's my turn to revive a dead thread, but I do so regarding pertinent information that I can't find (I have searched). I was just adjusting the clutch on my Loyale and I realized that all it has on the outer fork end is the two adjusting nuts (inner 12mm outer locking 10mm) and that's it. I seem to recall some of my other subarus having an assortment of convex washers and perhaps a small bushing IIRC sorted out among those two adjusting nuts, is my car missing bits on the adjusting end of the clutch cable? Does anybody have a picture of theirs that they know is factory original?

Oh I'm sorry I was thinking this was an ea when I read thru. I'm not certain on the ejs, I do know the dual port exhaust phase I ej18 and 22 motors are non interference, but don't know anything about the ej25s

Enjoyed catching up on this saga. Glad you got the title. I thought this was going to turn into one of those stories there for a moment. Good idea in the t belts. However the motor is non interference though so it would never ruin anything but it would certainly be an inconvenience! Good luck with it!

It's in this thread that I ever heard the words "uncontrollable acceleration" used in relation to an ea71.

Make sure you hold that tube in place firmly as you tighten it's hold down bolt.

Oh, just saw the rest of the thread! Ha! I knew that had happened to me. I was also curious about how it didn't really do anything that adverse except a parasitic draw when I made that same mistake.

I seem to vaguely remember having the same thing happen to me and it turned out that I had connected the two wires in the plug backwards. Try switching them wires. To be clear this is the two in the plug, not the one ring connector that goes on the stud.

It's a learning curve. Once you have gotten all the different names and stuff down, you're good though. Essentially if you order suspension parts for an 86 Brat, you should always get what you're looking for with ea81 cars. Another trick is to make sure you study the OHV engine at parts stores as all usdm eai2 cars are ohc.

It's not actually the metal that warps and the term warped rotors is just a popularly accepted moniker, despite being misleading. In short what happens is that when your brake pads get extremely hot, they can actually transfer friction material from the pad itself and essentially weld it to the surface of the rotor. The vibration you get from 'warped' rotors is the uneven surface of the rotor due to various pad material that has transferred.

You may have an internally collapsing brake hose. Next time you have your front wheels in the air, pump the brakes a few times, with moderate to strong pressure, and then go check if you're front wheels are both still spinning free. If one of them is locked up you either have a bad brake caliper or an internally collapsed brake hose that's now acting like a check valve only allowing fluid to go one direction. To determine which is the issue there, all you have to do is crack open the bleeder valve on the caliper while the wheel is still locked up. With the bleeder open, if the wheel begins to spin freely again, it's the brake hose. If not, it's the caliper. Also make sure your emergency brake cables and linkage is good, and maybe try disconnecting the hill holder, if equipped.

Yeah, I don't think anything was messed with to change any dimensions. I have a feeling this is just a case of confusion; there are two completely different Subarus with the "GL" moniker in 88. One is the ea82 variant, in wagon, sedan, and 3-door variety, the other is the ea81 variant with an ea81 and the same components as the older (pre 85) gl, it was only available as a hatchback by this point. They use different length axles with the ea81 cars being the shorter ones.

That is beautiful. Question; does your hand hit the cup holder in 1st, 3rd, or 5th gears? I've been thinking about adding a cupholder to my Loyale as well but I'm thinking of just hole-sawing a hole right into my dashboard (the flat part, like in front of the clock) and putting a grommet around it to just drop a cup into that.

If you put your hand over the carburetor barrels and it sucks your hand down the rpms will never increase and the car will stall, because you have essentially blocked all airflow into the motor. Your timing should be at about 15* with the Weber. Is this a Weber with electric choke? Did you hook up the blue wire to it? You should still make sure to fully depress the accelerator to the floor once before starting the engine to set the choke. The filter not filling is fine, it doesn't use much fuel pressure.