l75eya

In my opinion it's probably fine. Regarding the slop in the cable, ensure the cable isn't snapped somewhere, make sure your bracket is on right, and then under the coin holder (plastic trim between the seats) there's a way to adjust the slack on the lever handle.

I've actually only ever had issues with plastic core radiators once, in an old Altima, when the plastic around the filler neck cracked. Maybe I'll just get a double row plastic tank. Anything is better than the current (original) radiator in my 86. It is literally disintegrating.

Hey hey get your own thread! Jk haha, that's a good question.

All I find on eBay here are single row. I think due to the popularity of the l-series in Australia, there is a lot more aftermarket support for them.

Anybody know where I can get one? I'm going to be going through the cooling system on my ea82t for obvious reasons and would like to put in a full metal double row radiator. I've found full metal singles and plastic tank doubles, but no metal doubles.

Don't take ambian before posting.

Repaired exhaust, more backpressure, a compromised headgasket could have been the final nail there. Blew the gasket, filled the cylinder with coolant, hydrolocked it. Pull the plugs all out and see if it'll crank and watch out for liquid spraying out the holes.

Glad you're okay Tom! Sorry about the heritage high roof! Please tell me that trailblazer (right? Or equinox?) Didn't have a straight six.

She cleaned up very well.

Just gently pry and pull lol. The bottoms of the b pillar moldings are a pain. The a pillar moldings interlock with the top of the b pillar ones.

That GLE30 needs to go to Anderson for a proper 4" lift and some monster 6 lug wheels running aggressive BFGs. Also the entire drivetrain out of Nico's GL10.

I reconnected the original air lines to the front struts. The whole system seems to work fine. I have no idea why the previous owner disconnected then and put Schrader valves in, but I'm happy it all works now. Air suspension is so cool!

Wow. That's awesome. That thing must be a blast! Ny plates! Where'd you find this? I wonder if I can go visit it lol

OMG yes. I hate working on GM vehicles. Why don't we just weld the fender on AND bolt it into place. Sheesh.

Well, I got my hands on a nice GL-10. Obligatory picture: (I quickly removed my alloys from the Tin Can and put them on the GL-10) I have a couple questions maybe you fine fellow subaru folk can assist with. Most concerning are these weird holes I found in the head, near the exhaust manifold. I put the car up on a lift at work and was looking it over for the first time when I saw these. Please, please tell me they're normal casting holes or something. Pictures: I don't remember ever seeing anything like that on any of my naturally aspirated ea82s, and the Tin Can is in Jersey right now so I can't look. Any ideas wtf is up with that? Next, I have a slight stumble at real low RPM when I hit the gas. Like, taking off from a stop, it seems to sputter for a moment, and then start picking up speed. I haven't even pulled a spark plug out yet though, so for now I'm chalking that up to tune up required. Then there's the surging. It's so slight, but noticeable. While accelerating, say from 25 to 45, you can hear it and you can feel it. It's as if the throttle opens up just a bit more than I have it pressed at, then goes back, then increases, then goes back, then increases, etc. You can hear the motor gaining and relenting. It's slight, but it's annoying, and I'd like to fix it. TPS? Chalk this one up to tune up as well? And finally, there's the air suspension. I'm researching that as much as possible on here, but I thought I'd ask now and see if anybody knows any good ways to repair the leaking shocks. Is it possible at all? Vinyl patches, anything? My driver's side shocks seem to hold air pretty well, but the passenger side leaks out overnight. I'm also having trouble getting the rear pass side to inflate. I know that it can inflate, because I've (somehow) gotten it to raise fully before, but it seems real finicky. I've only heard the solenoid on that shock click once, and that was when I applied 12v directly to it, but then it wouldn't click anymore no matter the polarity. I can't tell if it's clicking when I push the button because it's too far away from me and the other shocks clicking makes it inaudible if it is. Then there's the system itself. I don't understand it. I get that there are relays that control the air flow into and out of the bags, but it just doesn't make sense when I look at it. The rear in particular. There's only two things attached to the relay that I can tell, the wires and one air line. The other air line goes directly into the shock. This doesn't seem logical to me, I don't get it. I will have to look at the driver's side to see if it is the same. Well, I guess I've rambled a bit on and on, I'll close this out now and keep updating as I progress. Thanks for reading

First and foremost a big thank you to user Glensz for bringing this car to my attention when it came up for sale; thank you Glen! Here it is. Subaru number 3. Practically 4 if you count my ex's which, yeah, she bought, but I kept alive. And drove. To Toronto. anyway...Including the ex's car it's been; The 93 Loyale that started it all, Ben. Front wheel drive with a 3at and 52k miles when acquired for $1k Then the first one of my own, the 87 GL. The flying Magpie. Carbureted, later Weber-ed, 5 speed dual range, later 3.7 RX swapped dual range. 46k and I got him for $1,200. Then after parting out the GL very reluctantly and scrapping him due to rust (Motor lives on in superpoo's wagon!) I acquired the infamous Tin Can. 93 Loyale with 92k miles on him, 5 speed, front wheel drive, $500. (Currently for sale) And now, after all these wheezy naturally aspirated EA82s, I have gotten myself a forced induction 86 GL-10 with 78k miles on it. Automatic, with push button 4WD (3 speed) As yet unnamed. Air suspension. Digital dash. Sunroof. Sky blue. 9/10 interior. 8/10 exterior. Here it is: And, naturally, the absolute very first thing I did was swap over those 84 GL alloys to it. And, well..here's the rest of the pictures that I have so far: Cell phone makes the digidash look all washed about but it looks great in person Priorities: 3.7 dual range is going in ASAP. The 3AT leaks trans fluid and doesn't like to function until warmed up. Needs brakes. Bordering on badly Air suspension works! BUT! (of course) The shocks leak and the fronts are disconnected from the system and tied directly to Schrader valves. (If you air suspension people know how to either repair the bags or replace them, please help a brother out) Reinstall the clutch fan Plans: Top mount intercooler Some type of more accurate temperature gauge. I don't trust the one on the dash, especially knowing how sensitive these heads and gaskets are to being overheated Investigate surging Read much more about turbos and boost and wastegates and downpipes and up-pipes and turbo-back and all that other turbo stuff I know nothing about but need to now. That is all for now. As she sits, the driver's side bags seem to stay inflated. The pass side bags do not last overnight. Haven't looked at the plugs or anything yet. She made it 230 miles home though with no problem other than the smoke screen behind me from the trans leaking (pass side, right onto the exhaust, naturally).

That was the best running ea82 I've ever had. Never skipped a beat in all the 40k miles I put on it. Well, up until the fuel system clogged up from a rusted out filler neck

I don't think you have to pull either out. Im thinking if you remove the condenser (if equipped), remove the clutch fan, the electric fan, pull the radiator out, and undo the motor mounts, you could probably just wiggle the engine all the way up to the radiator support and have plenty of room to work on the clutch and flywheel.

Never got the louvers! :-( hope the engine is still going strong!

My 87 4wd was carbureted. It was slow, but it ran okay. Eventually I had an issue with the carburetor and that's all I needed as an excuse to put a Weber. The Weber job isn't hard to do, especially if you have experience with using a drill (I recommend tapping the intake manifold to accept the larger bolts that come with the Weber adapter plate than using the thin original bolts). That noise you hear when you're at WOT coming from a Weber is absolutely intoxicating. It's a little tricky to get a Weber running *perfect*, that is you have to play with different Jerry sizes, do lots of test drives, but the jets aren't too hard to change out at all. It's designed to swap them easily. Other than that, no issues. Not as economical or as powerful as a simple spfi car, but the Weber gets it close. Expect 20 second+ 0-60 times with a dual range 5 speed stock carbureted model. They are pretty damn slow.

That's 78,263 on my just acquired today 86 gl10 sedan! ☺

Sounds very consistent with that. Read up on how to remove the governor hear gear and inspect it for uneven wear. If I remember correctly, it's pretty easy to get to, remove, and inspect/replace.

Swapped in a new egr solenoid from an Impreza to get my check engine light to go out. Still didn't go out, thought it was bad. Checked the computer, code 35 PCS. Swapped in a new solenoid I snagged from a Mazda 626, check engine light out. Win AND wow! My crappy idle and low rpm stumble is GONE and holy low end power! I can light up the tires from a stop in first without having to dump the clutch, just start rolling and put my foot down. I am impressed.

Today! (My door switch is broken)

Maybe a silly question but Is it particularly cold where you are? I've had that happen to me but my lock was just literally frozen. Otherwise, pull the door panel off and take a peak.