l75eya

I did that to my ex's loyale after it was hit in the front. I opened the hood without thinking and it had been pushed back, so the corner went straight into the windshield. Added insult to injury. =( What have I done to MY subie? I replaced the motor mounts because the previous owner of the Tin Can graciously included a new set with the car! Got them in and all vibrations are while driving. Nice! Also unstuck the rear door lock that wouldn't unlock with all the other doors. Still haven't figured out where the wire problem is with the door switch though. Sucks having to keep my dome light shut off all the time but the car likes to randomly decide the door is open, so it must stay off.

#1 make sure all your tires are the same size #2 You aren't driving on pavement, right? The drive-train can bind, especially while turning, and resist. You should only be using the 4wd in low traction situations, like in snow, or mud, or loose dirt. Using it on pavement will break things.

remove the a/c condenser if it has one, remove the radiator, make the radiator support as accessible as possible. Get yourself a 2x4 and a sledgehammer and start beating the ever loving **** out of it. Get a bottle jack and try sitting it on top of the upward bent piece and finding something stationary to jack it up against to push it down. I mean, it sounds like all you need to do is make something that is currently shaped like this: __---- look like this _____, right? Just start experimenting lol. Set the car on some jack stands to the frame and then lower something really heavy (like another car?) onto a piece of metal propped vertically on the bend? Idk man, just try stuff lol. Just be careful you don't break things or drop heavy things onto other things (like cars, onto people or limbs or other cars.)

Look up miles fox "art of Subaru maintainance" series on YouTube. Very very helpful step by step video guide.

If your car is an automatic, don't expect much more than 25mpg avg. Just saying.

Look up adding a new starter relay on these old gen forums. Insta-start soon as you turn the key. I did this when, as mentioned above, it got to the point where the starter was not engaging more times than it was.

I think you should buy the kit with the pulleys and tensioner and belts, the whole shebang. Replace the water pump while you're in there. Leave the covers off and only replace the oil pump if your engine develops the TOD.

No screws on these rotors. That's spfi.

If your ready and willing to do the job, just replace everything. As mentioned above, parts are cheap. Peace of mind will only cost you about $60 and some time. Small price to pay imo. Make sure you get fwd brake kits. The 4wd is slightly different. Read up on adjusting the back brakes, as they are manual adjust, not auto.

I just threw a propane torch on those top bolts till they were good and hot, then they came right out. Be careful of the fuel filler.

Jb-weld. Stuff is magical.

It's your transmission gear oil drain plug. Sounds like it's gone. Check your gear oil to be sure but that's what it sounds like to me. Don't run your car until you plug the pan and refill with 80/90 gear oil. Pretty sure it takes almost five quarts.

Aside from the actual shoes in the drums, I would inspect all the springs to make sure none are broken / hanging off.

What are those rims? 14" 4x140? Pugs?

I had a piece of the rear triangle trim around the fixed glass on the back of a sedan broken at the bottom so it would whap-whap-whap in the wind on the highway. I taped it a few times but eventually the tape would wear off. One of the times after it'd worn off, I was on the highway and that piece of trim just let go, heard it snap right off, saw it bouncing away in the mirror. Windy day that was.

Woah! What the hell stripped them clear off?

Is it stuck in a gear? Does the car move if you try using the starter? Or does it just click? Jack the car up and see if the wheels'll turn.

You said the engine was disassembled, are you sure the pump worked to begin with? Problem may not be related to the work you did at all.

try rapping on the window motor with a hammer. Might be stuck.

Hi! To better assist you, could you give us the exact model subie you have? You mention the choke so I'm assuming it's carbureted.

Yup. It happens. My first clutch job, all by myself, I dropped the trans in a gravel driveway by myself. Had the flywheel machined, put the clutch in, put it all back together, clutch wouldn't disengage. I pulled that @$%& trans THREE times by myself to double, triple, and quadruple check everything, working only on weekends, ALL weekend. After like a month I tapped out and brought it to a shop. Wrong clutch. The part number on the box was right, my order was right, but the incorrect clutch was in the box. We all learn somehow. My lesson sucked rump roast and cost me $300

3.7 and 3.9 are the only combinations they came in. A 3.7 dual range would be out of a real early turbo rx before the switched to full time and it would have 25 tooth stubs as opposed to the 3.9 that would have 23 most likely.

Well it would shear the roll pin, but it sounds like you're confident it's not axle fitment. You'll know if it's a stripped hub if the axle nut is spinning. If the axle nut isn't spinning it's definitely on the stub side. Only thing I could think to try would be to swap axles left and right but it sounds like you def have an internal problem on the trans.

Yes, the color is awesome.

You're absolutely positive the spline count is the same? I know the ea82 cars are 23 and 25 n/a and turbo cars respectively on the trans side.