l75eya

Calmasters! Nice wagon!

Well since July of last year to this date today, I've amassed a bit over 13k miles on the tin can. He's sitting at 108,xxx right now and I'll be putting another 450 miles on him tomorrow. I put 2,000 miles on him over the past 2 1/2 weeks. I've been doing a lot of driving lately.

Retroroo is *the* place to go in the Denver area. Doubtful anybody else around has nearly as much experience or knowledge with these cars and swaps.

I know 1.8s and 2.2s swap in no problem, just gotta modify the engine mount holes in the xmember a little. A turbo 2.2 I don't know.

Just add a relay to the signal wire going to the starter. Google ultimatesubaru old gen won't start click add relay. That'll get you set.

Next time it locks up, crack open the bleeder screw. If that releases it your problem isn't the caliper, it's the brake hose itself. It has collapsed inside and will allow fluid to move only in one direction.

Normal holes. I have the same thing on my gl and freaked when I saw them. Everybody here said they're normal. Checked my other ea82 and it has them as well.

Thanks Bennie. I know the ej18s are bullet proof. I feel the ea82s are just as reliable though. Just pretty gutless. I'm sure I'll be happy with the ej.

Auto trans?

Scott there isn't much you CAN'T do hahahaha, I'm trying to keep costs down and work with what I've got though. You got new interested on the escort disty though, do you have anything i can read about that?

You want a dual range 5 speed. It's straightforward and awesome. It will have two sticks. One for gear changes, one to activate 4wd modes. Push button is single range and vac operated you will have to run a vac line and wire the switch in.

You will use the ecu and wiring harness from the newer model Subarus. Preferably(for simplicities sake) the one you get the motor from.

Did you shut the car off at the end of that video? And the clicking in the background, is that the relays you were talking about? I would suspect one of those relays is going out.

I would like to go for as clean an engine bay as possible. I've even thought about going with carburetion, but the parts are hard to find. I'll look into the 2.2 intakes. I have no reason to keep the egr. Is there any point in throwing on different heads? 2.2, 2.0? Any compression gains, losses.? I'm going to be resealing the motor while I have it on the stand so any potential swaps/modifications I'm trying to figure out now. I might get a regrind in the cams if it's not too costly.

Thought of a couple more things: I'm pretty sure this EJ trans is set up for a cable. I'll have to look. Can I use my existing EA clutch cable? Is the shift linkage going to line up in the interior properly? Getting my ducks in a row, so to speak.Trying to anyway.

I know there is very very extensive ea-ej swap info on here, and I've read a lot of it, but the majority of which is people going ea82 to ej2.2 and using an adapter plate to also use their old ea transmission. That's not what I want to do and thus, I can't find the answer to my specific question. Background info: I picked up an early Impreza EJ18 motor AND it's FRONT wheel drive 5 speed transmission for $100. I'm not complaining. I'm prepping: From the ride to my garage To my place of work: And last but not least with it sitting under that black stripe on my loyale SO! That being said here's what I have: CAR: 1993 Subaru Loyale EA82 engine front wheel drive 5 speed trans PARTS: 1993 Subaru Impreza EJ18 1993 Subaru Impreza front wheel drive trans My big question is once I mount up the EJ motor to the slightly modified ea82 cradle and have the EJ trans bolted to the engine, are the axle stubs going to be lining up with my steering knuckles? I also understand that the early EJ fwd transmissions have 23 spline stubs, just like the non-turbo ea cars, does that mean I am going to be able to use my EA axles? Or do I have to get FWD impreza axles? Anybody know the differences in length on 23 spline EA axles and 23 spline fwd EJ axles? Those are my main questions. I am going to tear the motor down and build it up before I stuff it in the car. I'm open to suggestions on modifications while it is apart (pistons,cams, etc) Now I have to find a donor car for the wiring harness do I *need* a fwd impreza ECU and harness? can I use later model car harnesses? Convert it to obd II? etc etc Feed me knowledge! It's going to a good cause; yet ANOTHER EJ SWAP! (my first tho!)

Set up a crowd funding campaign for it and post a link here and see what happens.

You can't junk a car that you you across the country and back.

Indeed there were no 5 speed automatics. There were a handful of 4 speeds but they came mainly in GL10 models and the later year ones at that.

Anybody set up a gauge pod that looked...good? I'm planning on getting an EGT, boost, oil pressure, and temp gauge set up proper in the GL-10 (86 digi dash) and want to install something that looks...kinda correct. I'm going for gauges with similar amber colors as the digital display, and I'm trying to find something squared instead of rounded, but I'm up for ideas. There doesn't seem to be too many convenient mounting locations so it's probably going to have to be an under the ashtray or on the A-pillar kinda setup. on a side note, has anybody got a good idea of a the range (good - bad - you're melting the motor) range for exhaust gas temps?

Well, the GL-10 has been sitting for a bit as I garner some cash to do certain maintenance that really needs to be done before she can safely be driven around regularly. The radiator is the original, and it is falling apart. The brakes were shot. The oil needed changed desperately. There's more to the list, but today I got around to some of the rockauto stuff I've had laying about and got some installed, and changed the oil. Axle seals for all four wheels, inner and outer. Rotors front and back. Pads (front ones were WRONG!!!), new convex washers for each wheel. New PCV valve. I didn't do the axle seals yet, and the back rotors will have to wait for another day. As I was going over this car, I noticed so much shoddy mechanic work. Whoever used to maintain this car back in jersey was a complete spardnubbin. -The front axles are BOTH installed a tooth off center of the roll pin hole. spardnubbin's solution to not being able to install a roll pin because the axle was a tooth off? Shove a bolt in the pass side and snap the head off, and shove a phillips screwdriver in the driver's side. But wait! There's more - None of the balljoints, tie rod ends, OR AXLE NUTS had any cotter pins in them. -The oil pan has a huge dent in it from apparently being used as a jacking point. NO COTTER PIN! NO COTTER PIN!!! That's what was left of the front pads. This car is dirty. Eventually I will have all of those suspension components off the car and they will all be cleaned, brushed, cleaned, and painted. Gritty, nasty stuff. NO COTTER PIN!!!!! NONE!!! WTF! Brake components removed. Out with the old, in with the new! Every bolt I took out got brushed down and cleaned before going back in. I'm surprised the caliper bracket bolts didn't snap. Everything is back together now, and look what's in the axle nut! (And the ball joints and tie rod ends, not pictured!) Just gotta fill up the coolant with new, and finish the oil change and she's done getting worked on for the night. Soon will be a new radiator. Then maybe I'll get around to that intercooler piping.......

Wait a minute did I read that right? 55,000 miles in ONE year?

Pretty sure there's no set screw on these distributor rotors.

That was beautiful.

What exactly are you trying to do? Get better fuel economy? Remove the plastic body cladding (the black strips on the doors etc), lose the pass door mirror, remove the inner wheel liners, take the carpet and insulation out of the back, take out the rear seatbelts, remove the rear axles and reinstall just the stubs, lose the differential and driveshaft, cap the trans or swap in fwd trans, complete tune up, take off the muffler. Boom, 35-40mpg.