l75eya

Lmao! ALL that to hit 120hp. Coil on plug conversion, crank sensor, multi point fuel injection, ECU and fuel controllers, wow.

Yes, let us ponder the intricacies of these ideas you're putting forth. Rad you're completely correct. A nice modest shot of nitrous would give you a good little burst of power. And if you were looking for a small HP boost in an ea81, that would be ideal *but* Look at the cost of a bottle of nitrous lately? How about the lines to hook it all up to your Hitachi carburetor? Or the Carter Weber? OK, now that you're in the hole a good 6-700 dollars for your tepid shot of maybe an additional 10 horsepower, guess what? You better only hit that button for MAYBE 2 seconds at a time. Because you're running stock carbureted fuel pump. And there's no way it can keep feeding enough fuel to prevention your pistons from melting. So enjoy spending many many hundreds of dollars just so you can squirt your motor for a long enough time for it to accelerate from 65mph to 70 in the time it would have ordinarily gone from 65mph to 68.

If you're trying to maintain 75 mph on long steep hills, you need to look at throwing money at your transmission gearing. Or just treat it like an old ea motor and drop it in 3rd gear with your foot to the floor. I climb a steep mountain in my car and in the way to it in taching out 3rd and floored in 4th the whole way up. I'm doing about 70 when I crest it and typically peak at about 78 on the way.

The highlight of this whole post was seeing GD back on here. My .02 Ea81 makes what, 80hp on a good day? Ea82 makes say 85? 90 fuel injected? OK, so let's forget about the ea81 and focus on the most powerful non turbo ea variant. A mpfi ea82 might be making close to 100 horses The most power you're going to add without getting expensive is about 10 additional horsepower from doing simple intake and exhaust mods. OK you're at 110. There really is no more room for improvement without doing costly interior engine modifications now, and even then you're limited by what the stock ECU can handle. Those ea motors are very ingeniously built but they were designed to be economical and small, which they all are. They are not designed to create very much power, even in the most advanced form. Fast forward to 1995 and you have a motor that was influenced by the design of the ea engines but with more available technology, upstream and downstream oxygen sensors, camshaft phasers, computer designed pistons, etc, etc. You have a motor being run by an actual computer now, instead of a calculator. It's 1.8 (same displacement) version outputs 110hp stock. The 2.2 is in the 125hp ballpark. Stock. Unmodified. Couple that with a huge aftermarket source for performance upgrades. There is no good reason to say the EA motors can be just as good as the EJ motors because that simply is not true. If you like your ea motor, that's great! I love mine! It's runs like a sewing machine, starts every time, and gets decent gas mileage! It scoots my car to 60 in about 9 seconds and that's not soo bad either. What it is not, however, is anywhere near as efficient and powerful as a more modern, technologically advanced engine like the EJ series.

So I have an ej18 I've been resealing to drop into my Loyale. I just put the heads back on it a few weeks ago.. The shop I work at has a customer that has come in with their 96 legacy outback with an ej25. Blown headgaskets. So customer is going to replace the motor with an ej22. That means I've got a free ej25 sitting on the shop floor. This makes me excited. So I've read up quite a bit here. The common practice is to throw ej22 heads on the ej25 block for a high compression build. I also understand that the ej18 heads are practically identical to the ej22 heads, so with that understanding I should be able to put the ej18 heads on the ej25 block. Does the ej25 block have forged crank and rods like the ej18 does? And if not, what interest should I have in swapping cranks/rods/pistons as well? Oh boy.

Well, fairtax, speaking of that; My boss and the customer have decided to just yank the motor and replace it with an ej22. So I have a new question. This car is a 96 legacy outback wagon, with dual port exhaust and I'm assuming obd ii computer. I am obviously going to need a dual port 2.2 so that leaves me with the phase one ej22s, but were any of those obd ii? I'm wondering if I'm going to need a new ECU+harness or if there's a way to use the existing one. I understand the ej25 intake won't bolt onto an ej22?

This timing is a far cry from an ea82 you know what I mean?

No apologies necessary! Thank you for the tip, I'll triple check the timing next time I work on that car. That's exactly why I'm here, for help!

I needed a good laugh today. Nos on an ea81. That's good.

I don't know what your job situation is, I'm basing this solely on my experience, NJ has extremely high cost of living. Rent, etc. It's really difficult out there and that's why I moved to Pennsylvania. Thing about PA is work is a bit scarce in places. I'm in South PA.

The motor spins, I've rotated it many times but hand while I was checking the timing marks. Timing marks are all spot on (all friggin like 8 of them,jeeze!) Didn't get a chance to check with the scope yet, gotta push it into the shop first, been too cold out.

Thanks guys, I will read up on the torque bind issue. I do know this car was towed with the rear wheels on the ground for about 60 miles. I checked the TCM for codes with a snap on scan tool and it didn't list any current, pending, or history codes. The at temp light flashing did concern me but the fact that it doesn't stay illuminated confuses me. I'll look into looking for codes a different way than through the odb port. The rodent idea or either just the fact that wires could be messed up is something good to go on as well, due to the FWD socket being inoperable. I looked over the harnesses real quick when I had the car on the lift and didn't see anything but it was a quick look over. Good food for thought though, thank you

Won't run, but I'm going to turn it over but hand tomorrow and check it with the scope.

My niece has a 97 Impreza that is binding bad in turns. I'm much more of an old gen guy so I'm learning here (as well with the outback I posted about that's at the shop I work at and with the ej18 I'm resealing to put in my Loyale). So far I can give this information: No trans codes At temp light flashes at startup and then goes out (assuming this is normal?) Checked for power at the FWD fuse holder and one side is hot. When I place a fuse in the holder I then have no power across the fuse(at least not with a test light) When the car has bind in the drivetrain and you put it in park and shut it off, as soon as you shut off the engine the car will roll a little (as if the bind is being released I'm imagining) Trans fluid clean and full. Gear oil clean and full. I also read somewhere that the car should have a FWD light that comes on in the instrument panel, but with a flashlight I see no light like that, and nothing comes on when the fuse is in the FWD holder The fuse in the FWD holder has no effect. Car is still AWD locked. I'm welcome to all suggestions I would love to get this fixed. I was thinking maybe the clutch packs are shot but why does it seem to release when the car is shut off? Thanks in advance for all replies! This is a 97 ej22 single exhaust port motor, 4eat trans.

Sorry I haven't worked on this car in a few days now. Customer had it towed in so I don't know about recent fueling. Ether with the backfire is a bad idea, but I tried it anyway and it went as expected (boom). I'll check the codes tomorrow I can't remember what they were last time I pulled them. I do know this car has a blown headgasket and they've been driving it like this for a few months now. I can see a sticking valve doing this, I'll have to break out the camera and look. If the exhaust valve is stuck that would explain my backfire and the good compression. Thanks for the ideas, I'll keep this updated.

Timing diagram

Okay, this is a customer's car that I've been trying to diagnose for a few days now. quad cam 2.5, 1996 legacy. Assuming it's an ej25D (Pardon me I'm more of an old school EA guy) Anyway, I've checked compression on both pass cyls and the front driver's side cyl. All checkout (+120 PSI) I have spark on those 3 cyls as well. I've checked the timing using the attached diagram, all that checks out. Now the alignment marks that point to eachother on the intake and exhaust cams are off a little bit, but I've read that that's normal and the tooth count is correct. So I'm stumped . It will occasionally fire on what sounds like 2 cylinders, and while cranking when I let off the starter it will also occasionally backfire out the intake. I'm under the impression that even if that last cylinder had zero compression and/or fuel/spark, it should still fire up and run on 3. I can't get it to run but for maybe half a second, and very seldom. Looking for some direction here, thanks in advance.

Hey I'm sorry to hear that and wish her well. Have yourself a safe trip. Where abouts in Pennsylvania will you be?

Were any Loyales available with dual range or did they just get push button?

You're going the wrong way. Trust me just stay there lol

Coffee table!

What ratio rear end is in your car. Should have a tag on it.

My mistake! That's what I get for shying away from here for so long! I forget!

Scrapped. Damn shame, too. Here's the story! It's involved lol I sold the car to a guy out here in Pennsylvania. He was going to give it to his daughter as a first car. Turns out the car had a rebuilt title unbeknownst to me. See when I bought the car myself, from New York, I brought the title to Jersey where I was living at the time and had the title transferred to my name. It was at this point that the lady that was processing my title was supposed to realize that the car had a salvage title and let me know that I have to take the car to get an enhanced safety inspection completed before New Jersey would issue me a certified reconstructed title. She was supposed to do this. She did not do this. To my absolute luck (at the time) and to this future buyers dismay. See what happened was the woman that processed my title at the DMV blatantly skipped over the whole reconstruction thing, in typical NJ inattention to detail, both saving me the headache of having to go through that process, yet also keeping me in the dark to the cars title status. I thought it was just an ordinary title and the P/O never told me the car was declared totaled. So fast forward a year later. I sell the car, sign the title, dude goes to title it, Pennsylvania notices it's a reconstruct, notifies the new owner that they have to have the car put through enhanced inspection! New buyer tells me, I tell him I had no idea (I didn't) and offer his money back. He says it's no problem and he'll just have it inspected. It fails. For lots of things. He never gets it fixed, it sits and sits at my job (I work at a garage) and dude never does a thing with it. A year later landlord demands all non use cars get hauled away. Boss notifies dude that car has to go. Dude says just scrap it. Boss offers it to me for scrap price. Being that I can still register it in Jersey, I'm tempted, but I really can't afford 4 cars on my policy so I pass. I TRIED to find a buyer in NJ but the logistics made it difficult. So that's the story there. That's the only car I've ever had that I did absolutely ZERO maintainance to and drove the piss out of, and it took it like a champ. That car really ran really really good with God knows how old oil and plugs and wires and... It was just a beast. Damn shame. Oh well. C'est la vie, RIP Angry Olds.

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